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I have a not so stock "89" spider.It has 11.1 cams, high comp.pistons 10:5,dual webers,and magna flow headers and exhaust.I use a Euro cold air box on the intake,and I also have a new radiator and thermostat.
My problem is, now that the weather is getting hot,it runs hot about 210 degrees or so at stop signs and heavy traffic.does anyone else have this problem?
 

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it runs hot about 210 degrees or so at stop signs and heavy traffic
You didn't tell us anything about your fan; is it electric or belt-driven? If electric, are you sure it's coming on? If belt-driven, is the shroud still installed?

Generally the symptoms you describe - cooling OK at speed but running hot when stopped - are symptoms of not enough fan-driven airflow through the radiator. An engine's fan is primarily there to cool the radiator while the car is stopped.
 

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When you increase the power of the engine you also increase the heat output. I tried a good quality SPAL fan on a stock radiator before I switched to a Wes Ingram cross flow aluminum radiator with built in oil cooler. I posted the details. The oil cooler made a difference.
 

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Thanks for the reply I have two electric fans,one was used for the AC that I did away with,so I wired the two fans together and now both fans come on at the same time,and they are both working perfectly.You would think that would make a big difference.
I like the Idea of using a new radiator with an oil cooler I bet that will make a difference.I will look into that Thanks Ed.
 

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Where are you and what's the ambient temp there? And what thermostat do you have?
I would think sitting at stop lights, even a strong motor is not making that much more heat than a stock on, idling. Just my sense of it.
Which fan do you have? There are various with different size blades. The thin Euro fan draws less air than the US-market one.
Andrew
 

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How are you measuring the temp?

Stock gauge? Stock sender? They vary alot.
 

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I am using the stock gauge and sending unit.My friend has a thermal reader that you point ,squeeze the trigger and get an instant temperature reading.I will use that this weekend.
 

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Just check that the fans each rotate in the correct direction, not sure if it's possible to get a reverse action when wiring one into another, but if the AC one is supposed to push from the front and it's running backwards acting as a puller it will prevent air from entering the radiator.....

Easy & cheap to check

Aye
Greig
 

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if fans okay..protect the engine investment put a radiator designed for race engine.. cheap in the long run
+1
 

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I have a built Alfa motor that's pretty close to what your are running. I had the same problem with a stock radiator. I cured the problem by have a good radiator shop re-core my stock radiator making a 3 core instead of a 2 core. I run two 8in pusher fans with a stock threaded thermostat. My hot-rod motor now stays cool even in 100 degree stop and go traffic.

Having your radiator re-cored dramatically increases it's cooling capacity. Since the shop simply modified my existing radiator, mounting it wasn't a problem. The extra thickness, however, made it hard to mount my preferred 10in pusher electric fan. Most radiator shops (if you can find an old-school traditional one) will do a re-core for less money than an aluminum race-radiator. The only drawback is that re-cored radiators lack the street-cred of aluminum radiators.

Before you start doing anything major, check your teps with your friend's external tester. When I did that I found that my temp gauge was reading high.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info.I was thinking about going with one of Wess Ingrams aluminum radiators with the built in oil cooler you can run a 10 inch push fan on the front of the radiator But you might be required to do some slight modification,at least that's what he says on his web site.
I like the thought of having mine recored but I will have to do some searching in my area to find a shop capable of the project.Thanks I like your idea.
And yes my Alfa's temp was reading about 5 degrees hotter than what the gauge reads.
 

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I have a 12" pusher fan on my Wes Ingram radiator and I did not have to make big changes to get it in. The only downside is finding a suitable top hose for a Spider. Conedriver found one in a very helpful auto parts store. I used a piece of wire reinforced, general purpose flexible hose. I can post a picture if you decide to go that way. Maybe my 190 HP motor is generating more heat than most. Connecting up the oil cooler made a big difference.
 

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Pictures of Wes Ingram radiator installation

Pictures of Wes Ingram radiator installation
 

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Last time I checked, Wes' price for his aluminum radiator was quite reasonable---not all that much more than the cost of a re-core (I doubt many shops will do a re-core for the $350 mine charged---and a lot cheaper than what I got quoted for a purpose build one-off aluminum radiator. Several friends run his radiators and are complementary of their quality.

I noticed that Vick has an aluminum radiator for spiders listed for a righteous price. Has anyone tried one of these?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ed thanks for the reply, I am having Wess put my engine together again this winter and run it on his dino. I think when he sends it back to me I will have him send a radiator w/fan as well.Where did you get the top radiator hose and do you need a remote oil filter set up to run the oil cooler or does that come with the radiator when you buy it.Also what modifications did you have to make to fit the radiator.
I have a Euro cold air box on the intake as well ,but have no room to run the air hose to the right side of the radiator so i had to run it to the left side,over the top of the radiator and out the port for the original air intake.I'm sure that picks up heat off the radiator.Is Wess's radiator not as wide because I noticed that you ran the hose to your intake right beside the radiator.
 
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