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RSR Coilovers, how effective are they?

9835 Views 59 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  AR4me
I like my ride with my mods listed below, but after driving an early model S14 at the track with Stance coilovers (and helper springs) the ride isn't even jarring, and the grip on the track was amazing. The car was setup for drift but it still gripped like hell.

So I'm wondering, for those of you using RSR coilovers, do you think it can make a 75/Milano develop the kinds of grip that a more modern car with relatively stiff spring rates can? I'm realizing that I want stiffer rates but I don't know if it is worth the hastle to get some 30mm torsion bars from another country when Ron offers the whole setup. When you guys are driving your RSR cars on the track, can you keep up with other well driven cars (S14, E36, E30, WRX, Evo, etc) in the turns? I think that the narrow track of the Milano and the lack of space to put a wide tire would put it at a disadvantage compared to the other hot cars out there. Maybe I should use a different platform to go time trialing in?:confused:

Kind of a broad question, but I'd like to see what some of you have to say about this. Thanks!
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I'd like to see Louis' car in action too ... Buttonwillow is a good track for both fast and slow turns. The runoff is great too incase you forget to slow down enough ;)
It's even better for drift events -- no walls. Must have been the first event I didn't see someone go home iwth a totaled car.

Louis seems like a good driver too, we should get him to come out...hell, let's pick a universal Milano at the track date and we'll ALL go to that event. It seems like you guys had a very good one at Lagunsa Seca many years ago that IM issed out on, but it sure looked fun!

If LA is too far, we should all meet at Buttonwillow either with AROSC or not if it is too far away. I've also been told that the NorCal "Grip and Slip" events (Drifters in one run group, grippers in the other) have GOBS of track time. It's incredible for only $150. I'm going to look into it and maybe we could all go to one of those.
Grant, if it's all the same to you, let's pick a timed event (with official timing, e.g. via transponders).
That's a good point, I've never done a timed event on track, totally slipped my mind. Maybe I'm just afraid of (officialy) being the slowest Milano?
The AROSC runs the best timed events, and they're Alfa-centric!
Am I the only one without suspension modifications on the Milano? Here's two photos of why a stiffer suspension is needed.


Stock Milanos handle pretty nicely actually, they're just not using the potential of the front tires as you can see in the second picture you attached. Your Verde looks quite nice!
Go go go Blatta! :D:D:D
Yeah go Blatta!! It's been a very reliable street and track car. Typically at the track I let some of my buddies drive it around (HPDE) for awhile and end up doing 150-175miles of track time in the day really heating it up in 95 degree temps. Real 4 door sedan track driving. Again stock suspension but with R compund tires and drilled and slotted brakes. Turns are nice and fast as well as anyone but the Milano needs some giddy yup to keep close in the straights. Lots of fun and am able to be "competitive" with other 20 year old basically stock BMW's and Datsuns, and Miata's.

After this track season, I plan to replace and lower back springs, replace bushings front and rear, watts linkage, etc. and a bolt in roll bar to start time trialing but still keep it street capable. I really don't know how a "new" Milano is supposed to feel when the suspension is tight so I'm hoping for a big improvement in handling.


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Again stock suspension but with R compund tires and drilled and slotted brakes. Turns are nice and fast as well as anyone ...
Based on what you're saying, it sounds like it's doing just fine. It could do better but it doesn't sound like it's handicapped (i.e. performs less well than the others on the track events you've been on).

Any chance you can bring Blatta down to Buttonwillow at next year's AROSC Time Trials?
...Hey, what do you do when the shocks blow? Do you send them back to Ron or can they be rebuilt in the states?...:D
Don't know - never had a set blow up on us! I guess that you would just send them to G2 here locally and draw replacements from stock!

...Jon, you should bring your Verde down to an AROSC race at Buttonwillow or something. It's not TOO far for a once a year thing :D
I've driven it down to Laguna Seca in the past - that was nice... The only problem for me personally is that no matter who you are, what level your experience, how many races you've done, or what you drive - the SoCal club won't let you run without first going through their ground-school and everything!)

It sort of sucks because when our club hosted the national convention up here two years ago, we were in the same position - we bent the rules for out-of-towners as a courtesy though! That same courtesy was not extended the last two times I came down! (They wouldn't even let Ron Simons drive at Willow and he holds an FIA license!)

Not much incentive to drive all of that way only to play follow-the leader at lunch time!
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I should have the Blatta put back together by March/April 2008 for Button Willow? I've been to ProControl Driving School at Reno Fernley and can time trial with the Reno SCCA, whats the deal with AROSC? only their driving school? If they would let me in with a time trial prepped car, I'd sure do Button Willow, if not maybe NASA or SCCA at Thunderhill?
JJ and 91SpiderNV,
AROSC typically lets you run if you have experience from recognized org - SCCA should be fine. Without a AROSC license you just need to run with the "X" - two pieces of tape... and attend class room before sessions. Of course, you have to meet AROSC tech requirements, but I doubt you would have problems if you meet SCCA requirements. Go to, download the comp-code and check. If you are far from tech places, someone at the track will be available to tech your car Sat morning for the nominal $10 fee. They are very friendly people. Bruce Colby on this board is competition director and is always helpful. His BB id is "Bruce Colby".

You don't need to spend $700 on tires. You should start your suspension
tuning w the best tires you can reasonably afford. I've found the Yokohama
AVS ES100 to be a really decent street tire for the gtv6 in 205/55/15.
Not a track tire, but usable on the track and auto-x.

I am running Kumho ECSTA MX 205/50/15 now and have really liked them
all around. Almost a full on auto-x tire, they are still streetable.

The Yokohamas and the Kumhos are ~$75 per tire. No point in getting
Toyo RA1s or Michelin Pilots. Well if you had the cash and nothing
to do w it. All my porcha friends say they are worth it.

The 2 most profound performance upgrades for me have been.

Wider stiffer sticker tires.

Bigger front sway bar.

How do you like the Performatek sway bars ?
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I have confirmed that the RS Racing stuff and Intrax are a joint collaboration. The RS/ Intrax shocks use high pressure Nitrogen in them. Here is a snippet of a thread from with Ron commenting on some interesting things regarding shocks.

"Hi Guys,

I would like to add something to this discussion and give you another option too.

I'm driving an old Group A Auto delta works Alfa GTV6 which won alfa the european championship in 84. back then the car was driven by Lella Lombardi and Giorgio Francia. The championship car was using bilstein non adjustable shocks back then. I drove the car with these shocks and i think they where good at that time but there were better alternatives available. Now i'm running this car with an intrax full race suspension adjustable system under mutual development.

Now, since i'm using 10 Alfa 75's and my own road going GTV6 for my Advanced Driving Academy i had to face the challenge again and built a new system that would be perfect for the combination of fast street and track day use. The system can be lowered on-the-fly upon arrival at the track.

The yellow koni's are not good for the GTV6. hard but no performance. The bilsteins are far better and the stiffness pays of with increased handling. Both set's are a little bit dated though.

Now the most important thing. If you lower the car you also need stiffer springs. For the rear it's easy. for the front it's a little more difficult so people stop after lowering the torsions."
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I'm using Ron Simons sway bars - the Performatek bar was only 3 position adjustable, I wanted 4 way adjustability. In retrospect, I wish I had the 24mm rear sway bar, the 26mm rear sway bar I think is too much....I think it is supposed to be matched up with the 30mm sway bar.

In another thread, I mentioned the RSR rear bar doesn't work with the stock exhaust routing on my car atleast. I'd go with Performatek for the rear atleast.

I just mounted ES100 225/45/16. I had to do some fender modifications but it wasn't too bad. So far, the grip is noticeably better but still isn't that great. I was going to get 215/45/16 Falken 615 or 225/45/16 Ventus RS2 but without a dedicated set of track wheels, I don't think now's the right time for me to buy 200 treadwear tires. As a reference, I'm coming from 205/50/16 Kumho 712s. Stiff but slippery. And don't ever buy Kumho 711's. They are extremely floppy, not even fun for a daily driver. They were about $44 each though in 215/50/15.
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Louis, what's his handle on the transaxle forum? Does he post often?

He goes by Ron Simons on or now. I found these posts from like 4 years ago. I thought he also reads Alfabb from time to time. I think he was posting stuff when he was starting to market the suspension kits.

I googled it and found it here:

Go to the driving school already. 4 milanos there.

Who are the 4 drivers?
Quote: I just mounted ES100 225/45/16. I had to do some fender modifications but it wasn't too bad. So far, the grip is noticeably better but still isn't that great.

This tire is a regular street tire and you cannot expect it to function like a Sport tire. A Sport tire has a much stiffer carcass and can carry the car much better in corners, in additon that the negative part of the thread is much less. Even the compound of the thread of the Sport tire is much tougher than on the road tires. So if you want maximum grip, Sport tires is the way to go.
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