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1974 GTV
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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings: I've started my summer project of removing the old factory-installed insulation underneath the carpet in my GTV and replacing with Dynamat Xtreme and 1/4 inch Dynaliner. Man it's really narly underneath those old carpets–brown and rusty dust and really hard to completely remove the factory insulation. A few questions:

(1) Must the floorboards and firewalls be completely cleaned down to metal before applying Dynamat and an insulator?
(2) If so, how to clean all that remaining sludge off? (I've been using a small steel brush.)
(3) Shall I keep the factory insulation over the transmission tunnel or should I also replace with Dynamat with the insulator over it?
(4) I've been using a mask. How toxic is the material I'm removing? Does it have fiberglass or asbestos inside? And how/where is best to dispose of this material?

Once again, a much bigger job than anticipated. My wife is not too happy with the stae opf our garage. I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions from the Alfa community. Thanks!
 

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I've heard of people using "dry ice" i.e. frozen carbon dioxide to help strip this kind of material - it turns it hard, so it can be chipped off easily
 

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Scrape clean with lacquer thinner kerosene and use 3M clean strip wheels surface conditioning disks. I like to go to bare metal and then use a 2 part mastic epoxy followed by spray on bed liner. If I use dynamat I will use small pads here and there. The bedlinen act as a sound deadener.
 

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I just did this with dynamat. Used the 3M wheels to get off all the old stuff but left most of the original paint. Where I was at bare metal I used a rust encapsulator product from Eastman. I put more seam sealer in the areas where the original sealer was lost.

I like that idea of bedliner though! That looks great.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

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I just did this with dynamat. Used the 3M wheels to get off all the old stuff but left most of the original paint. Where I was at bare metal I used a rust encapsulator product from Eastman. I put more seam sealer in the areas where the original sealer was lost.

I like that idea of bedliner though! That looks great.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Yes, new seam sealer in all seams. There is a sliding scale here from do nothing to get out the dental tools and scrape all the nooks and crannies. It depends on your definition of fun.
 

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Smithy,Nice work.Did you use the 3M 08840 pads in any areas where carpet or vinyl had to be glued down to it? If so,what kind of adhesive did you use and how well did it work? I used the 3M on my 61' spiders' entire floor,including the rear floors where Italian vinyl(Vipla)needed to be glued directly over it.Results using upholstery and carpet spray adhesive as well as brush-on contact cement were fair at best and I might redo it.As you can see,the vinyl will not stick very well,no matter how much rolling is done.3M says they're paintable,but not meant for anything to be glued to it.I'm thinking of some type of roofing mastik??.I'd love to hear a solution.The Best,Phil
 

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Smithy,Nice work.Did you use the 3M 08840 pads in any areas where carpet or vinyl had to be glued down to it? If so,what kind of adhesive did you use and how well did it work? I used the 3M on my 61' spiders' entire floor,including the rear floors where Italian vinyl(Vipla)needed to be glued directly over it.Results using upholstery and carpet spray adhesive as well as brush-on contact cement were fair at best and I might redo it.As you can see,the vinyl will not stick very well,no matter how much rolling is done.3M says they're paintable,but not meant for anything to be glued to it.I'm thinking of some type of roofing mastik??.I'd love to hear a solution.The Best,Phil
I did not glue to those pads, but I will check into a glue system. I am thinking adhesion promoter and contact cement. But I will check and try to do a test. That is why I did not use sound pads in my 67 the red one. Believe it or not but that floor is covered by glue in carpets.
 

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I did not glue to those pads, but I will check into a glue system. I am thinking adhesion promoter and contact cement. But I will check and try to do a test. That is why I did not use sound pads in my 67 the red one. Believe it or not but that floor is covered by glue in carpets.
Smithy,Thanks for the quick response.I did a fair amount of bench testing with contact adhesives,both with the 3Ms' thin film left on and removed.(I even tried liquid nails,but don't tell anyone)The spray seemed to hold better than others,so I went with that.Looked great,but after a couple of weeks or so,it started letting go in spots.Adhesion promoter sounds like a good,safe start,but seeing that the 3M pads w/o the film seem like a roofing material to me,I'm drawn to that type of product.Truth is,I don't know what they're made out of,knowing that would be good!Thanks for anything,Phil
 

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Hey GTV....
(1) Must the floorboards and firewalls be completely cleaned down to metal before applying Dynamat and an insulator?
(2) If so, how to clean all that remaining sludge off? (I've been using a small steel brush.)
(3) Shall I keep the factory insulation over the transmission tunnel or should I also replace with Dynamat with the insulator over it?
(4) I've been using a mask. How toxic is the material I'm removing? Does it have fiberglass or asbestos inside? And how/where is best to dispose of this material?
1. No, but it helps. I chiseled off all the old soundproof material, then used Acetone. It dries the old mat residue and lets the new Dynamat adhere to it.
2. Sludge it difficult. I used same chisel as a scrapper.
3. No. I removed it. After years of vibrating, it forms air pockets, therefore losing its soundproof ability.
4. I don't think so, but I also used a mask and goggles. Disposed of it in the trash.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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I've used a heat gun to get the original pesky insulation removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for your responses and pix! Very helpful. Mauricio, is that a styrofoam "plate" on the passenger side? I found something similar but coming apart on my GTV. Why is this here and not on the driver's side I wonder. Is it needed? Also great job covering with kilmat sound deadener –– did you apply a heat insulator pad over top?
 

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Yes, thats a styrofoam spacer used by Alfa to fill the gap in the passenger side footwell under the carpet and padding. If yours is deteriorated, just use something else that will allow the carpeting to lay flat. Its not needed on the drivers side, as the clutch peddle goes all the way to the floor. After the Kilmat, I laid and glued carpet padding over everything except the door sills (notice that I didn't put the Kilmat on the sills either. They are solid and don't vibrate, plus the carpet won't fit correctly if you do). Also note, very important, DO NOT put any soundproofing material, padding, or carpeting under the Shift tower. Alfa left that surface clean so the rubber gasket could seal against the bare metal. If not, the carpet and padding will absorb oil coming from under the car. New Carpeting should fit around the tower. I then laid carpeting without glue. Where are you in the process?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wow. Nice job Mauricio–your interior looks fantastic. This is where I am in the process on my GTV– see pix. I plan to sand down and apply primer, followed by applying Dynamite extreme and Dynaliner 1/4 inch thermal insulator. Still not sure whether not leave the original up on the firewall behind the dash–it's a thin insulator sheet stuck up there pretty good. This is my first endeavor replacing carpet and insulation so any other member advice is welcome! Thanks. IMG_0361.jpg IMG_0363.jpg



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Yup. Remember being there. I would take off what you can on the firewall. Makes the install easier and looks nicer when done. Use a chisel. I was skeptical,. but it works. Hold the chisel at a 45 degree angle to the edge and smack it with a hammer. You'll be amazed at how much comes of and how easy it is. wear safety goggles.
 

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I used Kool-mat when I restored my Alfa in 2003. It was standard installation on NASCAR cars at the time. It's waterproof and it went in with a little struggle: cutting and shaping to cover the entire cabin. I think I bought 8 square yards. It's 100% waterproof so once it went down and the seams were sealed with silicon it's a total rust barrier. Floors were prepped to paint, not bare metal. A wire brush on tough spots, then a rust prep and rattle can. Once dry, let the cutting, shaping and gluing begin!
 
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