[dnudelman]

Has anybody done this with the engine still in the car?

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Not I but I bet you can do it with air cleaner top, corragated intake tube and coolant tank removed.

Getting that allen wrench socket, extension and ratchet in above the brake booster is the trick. Getting the aluminum foil facing on insulation around booster pushed out of the way will be helpful.

I just removed cable on car I parted out. It maybe helpful to loosen the four nuts under the dash holding brake booster so you can jiggle around booster to get a little more room to access allen head bolts holding accel cable housing to firewall.

If all else fails and you can pull the cotter key and clevis pin out of booster rod at brake pedal you can then push booster and master cylinder forward and down enough to gain more access the cable bolts. Just a thought not an easy one but one just the same.

Some cars may have hex bolts instead of allen head ones.

 

[Richard2]

I did this on the now deceased black 164S many years ago. It's difficult under the dash as Steve points out. My cable was frayed on the throttle end and was getting stuck in the sheathing. I'd take my foot off the gas and guess what happened...nothing

 

[donliznev]

I was able to push the rubber grommet into the engine bay from the foot well using blunt screwdriver.
I do have the booster out which probably makes it a lot easier.
I attached some pictures which may make life easier knowing a bit more about what you are dealing with.
The first pic shows what is behind the accelerator pedal, particularly the rubber grommet in the body.
The second pic shows the whole cable.
The challenge will be to get the grommet back in place......

I hope I am not missing something or causing confusion but I did not encounter any cover plate or bolts near the booster?
Nor did I displace any of the foil insulation?

 

[donliznev]

I just looked again and there were definitely no bolts or plate to remove at the body behind the booster - I looked on both cars (91L and 93L) currently being merged.

It is with great trepidation that I am contradicting Steve.....

You will have to loosen the booster as Steve suggested in order to gain enough clearance for the new throttle cable assembly to get back in through the hole.
Your fingers will not fit past the booster to where the grommet is attached to the bodywork.

You might have to disconnect the hydraulic brake lines from the booster unless you are prepared to bend them somewhat.

Nothing is easy.....

 

[dnudelman]

thanks guys. There are 2 part numbers for the cable depending on vin. One with a bolt on flange, other with rubber grommet.

 

[Richard2]

Mine had bolted flange

 

[Alfisto Steve]

If below VIN 6212020 use 60558327 IAP 08059 after use 60563884 IAP 08061.

I suspect either one will work and both held in with two allen head screws.

 

[SpiralArchitect]

I'm thinking about doing replacing mine as it's getting frayed. Does the entire cable and housing have to come out? I imagine I could just replace the cable and keep the housing, as it still seems good.

I'll be doing parts hunting as I've found the vacuum leak causing my idle issues and loss of turbo pressure: it's the hose from the IAC valve to the throttle body. Taking the distributor and IAC valve off help but I'll still need smaller hands to reach under the intake. I'll post it if I get some good pictures of it.

Otherwise I'll be mending hoses with heat shrink tubing again.

 

[Richard2]

The cable can't be removed from the sheathing. There are formed connectors on either end.

 

[Graham D]

The throttle cable has an internal plastic sheath. You can defray a lot of future problems if you periodically squirt a little motorcycle chain lube into the cable from the top. While you're at it, disconnect the hood release cable above the radiator and lube it too. I you do so, when you reconnect it be sure that it is hooked to the release handle BEFORE you close the hood.

 

[SpiralArchitect]

The cable can't be removed from the sheathing. There are formed connectors on either end.

I've seen the formed connectors. Anyway, my idea would be buying some motorcycle cable and screw-on connectors, if I find some that fit. Anyway, it's just a cable and all it does is pull when one presses the pedal. Shouldn't be too hard to improvise.

 

[dnudelman]

My cable sheath has separated from the molded connector on the wire wall. I'm using a cable tie to hold it in place. Works fine.

I picked up a new cable assembly from Vick, only about $18.