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Discussion Starter #1
I have the cylinder head off so figure I will replace the motor mounts while I’m in there. Access seems excellent.

Can anyone help me with the procedure from this point? There are plenty of threads illustrating the hard way to do it, but I am hoping that with the cylinder head off there is a much easier method.

I’m guessing all I need to do is undo the bolts, unweight the mounts by jacking from below and switch them. Is there more to it than that?

And what is the safest way to jack up the engine?
 

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I’m guessing all I need to do is undo the bolts, unweight the mounts by jacking from below and switch them. Is there more to it than that?
That's about it. When putting the new parts in start all the nuts & bolts but leave them a little loose until they are all in place. This gives a little bit of wiggle-ability to get everything aligned & assembled.

And what is the safest way to jack up the engine?
Put a wooden board across the bottom of the sump to spread the load.
 

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Should be pretty easy with the head off.
I changed mine with the intake intact.
What a pain! One bolt at a time, but I got it done in abount 4 hrs.
Make sure you get the intake support strut lined up and in position, but leave it fairly loose
until the intake is installed so you can align it.

have fun
 

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That's about it. When putting the new parts in start all the nuts & bolts but leave them a little loose until they are all in place. This gives a little bit of wiggle-ability to get everything aligned & assembled.



Put a wooden board across the bottom of the sump to spread the load.
"wiggle-ability". I'll have to add that to my vocabulary....LOL.
 

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If I was doing all 3 mounts, I'd hang strings to see what the engine, driveshaft and rear axle alignment looks like. This way you just realign to where it was, or correct it if needed. It's been suggested by RJ and others to add extra pair or two of rubber washers to the rear mount to better locate the tail. Make sure radiator hose don't rub on pass side inner fender after new mounts and leave enough space as the engine does lean on accel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I was doing all 3 mounts, I'd hang strings to see what the engine, driveshaft and rear axle alignment looks like. This way you just realign to where it was, or correct it if needed. It's been suggested by RJ and others to add extra pair or two of rubber washers to the rear mount to better locate the tail. Make sure radiator hose don't rub on pass side inner fender after new mounts and leave enough space as the engine does lean on accel.
THREE mounts?

Are you referring to the transmission mount? I already replaced that guy last year. Sagging transmission was popping out of reverse. New transmission mount fixed it.
 

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One thing that good to think about is whether or not to put a nut on the bottom engine mount studs. They're easy to get to now, but can be the very devil to change when everything else, like the head, headers and carbs, carb linkage, etc., are installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To remove the mounts after removing all the fasteners, how much do I need to jack up the engine? Am I just barely taking its weight, or do I need to jack it right up off the mounts?

Just looking for a little coaching on the best jacking technique.

Thanks!
 

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Until the transmission almost hits the tunnel.
 

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its quite a bit more than just taking the weight;)

when I did mine it was a good inch or two lift...but just do it little by little till you can wiggle out the mounts from between the engine and the chassis legs. You are in a great position with head off to keep an eye on things as you go.

Make sure the wood plank under the sump (oil pan) is a good sturdy/broad one to spread the load, you do not want the jack slipping off...those lovely aluminium sumps are fairly fragile.
 

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Pull the exhaust side off first then remove and replace the intake side before putting the new exhaust one on.
 
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