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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Message is really just for readers info.

Have a 1974 115 Junior Spider, euro spec with a single brake booster on hanging pedals.

The Benditalia brake booster was seized solid so had to either un-seize it or replace it. Got it apart and dropped the large plastic piston and broke it. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRh. However I have found a 1980's Giulietta ATE Brake booster and the components from the inside of this fits and works perfectly with the outer case of the Benditalia booster. The Benditalia outer case has the bracket for the clutch M/C so needed to retain this. It all fits and works as it should. You have to modify the pin where it connects to the pedal but its easy (and safe)

FYI, I "undid" the two outer halves of the booster by having it lightly bolted into the car without the master cylinder and then putting a lever between the M/C bolts and pushing. Sounds rough but the M/C studs are up to it if you take care
 

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2nd paragraph in his post:

FYI, I "undid" the two outer halves of the booster by having it lightly bolted into the car without the master cylinder and then putting a lever between the M/C bolts and pushing. Sounds rough but the M/C studs are up to it if you take care
 

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FYI, I "undid" the two outer halves of the booster by having it lightly bolted into the car without the master cylinder and then putting a lever between the M/C bolts and pushing. Sounds rough but the M/C studs are up to it if you take care
Yup I missed that alright.

The good news is that you confirmed that it works as I hoped it would. Bolting it back in the car is a good idea...now I just need to devise an attaching plate with a lever.....not sure I trust levering on just the bolts on their own....I sure don't want to bend those or the outer casing...BTW this is for the ATE booster on a Montreal.
 

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Well....after a second attempt with a 3 1/2 ft lever and the booster bolted back in the chassis .....still no budging between the 2 halves. What lever size did you use....and did you use more than just muscle power?
 

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Do you turn the booster half to the right or the left to get it apart?
 

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I'm also wondering if the use of a product like Freeze-Off, a penetrating and shocking penetrating oil,
wouldn't assist in disassembly......

You should actually be able to see which direction to turn the front housing from the rear housing by looking.
 

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@1750GT , we say righty tighty lefty loosey to describe which way to turn a screw or nut. Turn to the right to tighten. Turn to the left to loosen.
Ahh....of course....I was turning to the left when looking at it from the front.

I'm also wondering if the use of a product like Freeze-Off, a penetrating and shocking penetrating oil,
wouldn't assist in disassembly......You should actually be able to see which direction to turn the front housing from the rear housing by looking.
I've used Frezee-Off a lot on nuts and bolts.....didn't think it would get underneath the rubber though. I will check to see if direction is obvious. Which way did you turn?
 

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Success. I was finally able to untwist the two halves by first rotating the whole booster 180 degrees from the normal position (this is to prevent the clutch mounting bracket attached to the booster from clashing with the bracket welded on the inner fender. I then attached a square tube to the 2 bolts for the M/C which and although strong enough on their own.....the offsets in the loading created a twisting on the studs and this resulted in some deformation around the opening. To prevent further damage.....I added a thick a 3/16" plate between the booster and the lever to keep that surface nice and flat. I used a threaded rod to create the load on the lever......it all went rather easily after setting it up as shown.
IMG_5447.JPG IMG_5450.JPG

Question for those that have ventured down this road before me....how does one disassemble the push rod from the rear housing half?

IMG_5408.JPG
 
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