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You guys are making me crazy. I agree no nut or loose nut but you do not want be rotating the end of the puller directly on the shaft end so if the puller doesn't have a rotating end then push the wire down and insert some thing else there such as a bolt to receive the puller end. Centre puch the bolt head to try and keep puller end centered. I lathe turned an insert.

I load the wheel and shaft up and hit the end of the puller. As Jay says maybe not a good idea but what I have done.
Heating shaft and then quenching it with WD 40 may help. Freezing it will make the shaft in theory smaller, also may help. Not sure what to do if threads in wheel are already stripped.

Vibrating action of an air hammer is used to release puller loaded ball joints so also worth a try.

And BTW if one owns an Alfa and want to DYI then be prepared to tool up.


Stay well

Ken
 

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Do not remove the nut - you will destroy the shaft. Puller + air hammer has always worked for me
 

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1973 Spider; the daily
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Discussion Starter #23
I would be careful with blunt force. Too much and you'll shatter the steering box. I've seen it happen. As soon as I get to the parts store to get some larger bolts, stripped the steering wheels threads so I need to retap them a larger side, I'll be playing with heat. Try to heat it up and cool it with wd 40.
 

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I'm having the same problem. Lots of force but it doesn't let go. Hammered. It does not release. My air hammer is not working right now. May need to buy another.
 

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1973 Spider; the daily
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Discussion Starter #25
I'm having the same problem. Lots of force but it doesn't let go. Hammered. It does not release. My air hammer is not working right now. May need to buy another.
Be careful that shaft goes straight into your steering box. They will break if you hit too hard. I would try heating it up and hitting it with wd 40. If that doesnt work then try super cooling it.
 

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The conventional wisdom is that the end of the column will "bell mouth" if you crank down the puller with no nut in place. See the last sentence in post #3 above, written by not2old4toys
I stand corrected. it's been a few years since I’ve removed the steering wheel.
 

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I've been trying to remove my steering wheel to replace my headlight switch. I've loosed the 27 mm nut and backed it out flush with the steering column and put a puller on it. I've cranked so hard I've stripped the threads in the wheel. I've been spraying it with BP blaster the whole time everyday for over a week. At this point I'm unsure of what I'm doing wrong because the wheel seems very stuck. Any help is appreciated.
I struggled for weeks w/one on a 79, finally got it with a cheep 3 jaw puller that i grond the tips to fit in the holes that accomodate the plastic cap. Long story. Call me if you want details, 707-483-2532.
 

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Spent about an 40 minutes yesterday using my air-impact wrench with no success. Then tried the breaker bar only to strip the threads on the steering wheel where the puller attaches. UGGG! Frustrating. I've taken off several steering wheels on other vehicles with no issues. This one is becoming my nemesis.
 

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Spent about an 40 minutes yesterday using my air-impact wrench with no success. Then tried the breaker bar only to strip the threads on the steering wheel where the puller attaches. UGGG! Frustrating. I've taken off several steering wheels on other vehicles with no issues. This one is becoming my nemesis.
If there is enough room I suggest you Heli Coil or equivalent, the stripped M6 threads rather than tapping larger.

Good Luck

Ken
 

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I used a cheap-0 puller from some auto parts store and when all was lined up perfectly a 1/2" drive, 16" long breaker bar wouldn't budge the sucker. A brief kiss with my electric impact wrench did the trick for me. I've pulled dozens of wheels off all kinds of cars and trucks but NEVER have I found one so tight as my Spider. Good luck.
 
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