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I've been trying to remove my steering wheel to replace my headlight switch. I've loosed the 27 mm nut and backed it out flush with the steering column and put a puller on it. I've cranked so hard I've stripped the threads in the wheel. I've been spraying it with BP blaster the whole time everyday for over a week. At this point I'm unsure of what I'm doing wrong because the wheel seems very stuck. Any help is appreciated.
 

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After struggling for years I purchased this tool from Centerlinealfa. Spendy but very effective. You can fashion a usable one from Harbor Freight. Soaking overnight with
PB Blaster certainly helps. Screw the hold down nut back on the end to prevent thread damage while removing the wheel.
Cheers, Jon
 

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Tighten up the puller. Then hit the shaft with a blunt Bit in an air hammer . Will pop right off
 

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Gets some Dust Off keyboard cleaner aerosol, turn the can upside down, spray the shaft with the liquid that comes out, don’t let in contact skin. This will super cool the shaft, another 1/4 crank on the wheel puller nut and it will pop right off.
 

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i made a puller for the GTV and the spider that works perfectly. cost is under $10USD. ill post a picture when i get home.

really its just a part of a puller from a kit and some all thread rod, nuts, bolts. that and a rubber mallet is sometimes needed to "POP" things off
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i made a puller for the GTV and the spider that works perfectly. cost is under $10USD. ill post a picture when i get home.

really its just a part of a puller from a kit and some all thread rod, nuts, bolts. that and a rubber mallet is sometimes needed to "POP" things off
I already have a puller. I'm going to try to heat up the column with a torch and hit it with a hammer while pulling.
 

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I'm going to try to heat up the column with a torch and hit it with a hammer while pulling.
Whoa, careful with that hammer. That column goes right into your fragile Burman steering box; whomping it with a hammer can lead to bigger problems than a non-operational headlight switch.

When you do get it apart, apply some Never-seize when you re-assemble it so you don't have to go through this again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Whoa, careful with that hammer. That column goes right into your fragile Burman steering box; whomping it with a hammer can lead to bigger problems than a non-operational headlight switch.
Then what would you suggest?
 

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Then what would you suggest?
Sorry if my comments were too nuanced. My point was that it's probably OK to tap on the steering column, but don't get frustrated and hit it too hard (which is what I meant by the term "whomping"). The steering wheel doesn't have much mass, so it isn't as if the wheel would remain stationary while you knocked the column free with a big impact. But sure, applying a shock to a stuck, tapered joint under tension can break it free.

I just don't want the next thread you start on the BB to contain this photo:

 

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You want cold, not heat, freeze the shaft via my method, you ultimately want the shaft smaller, freezing makes it contract, heating has the opposite effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You want cold, not heat, freeze the shaft via my method, you ultimately want the shaft smaller, freezing makes it contract, heating has the opposite effect.
I would think heating it then letting it cool would expand the metal then let it shrink back down leaving a gap where it pushed out whatever is holding it on. Also I have a torch but no keyboard cleaner. I'd try the torch first to avoid making a trip considering the conditions.
 

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I put both knees on each side of the wheel. Then my other hand on the top of the wheel. Then pull towards you when you hit the puller with the hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I put both knees on each side of the wheel. Then my other hand on the top of the wheel. Then pull towards you when you hit the puller with the hammer.
I've been trying different combinations of pulling and hitting with a hammer with a puller on for a while with no success. The threads in the wheel gave way today so I'll be off to the store in a hazmat suit to buy a new bolt. I'm going to experiment with trying to freeze it it and pull or heat it up and see if either of those works. Im afraid that if I hit it any harder I'm going to wreck the steering box. Really at a loss for words on what holds this wheel on. Better then some welds I've seen.
 

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Has your wheel started moving then stopped? - mine did with my home made puller and hadn't backed the column nut off far enough, once i realised that it was fine
 

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It would take hitting it with a sledge hammer to come close to breaking it. If it did break. It would mean it already had cracks in it and was going to break in the future.
 

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I've been trying to remove my steering wheel to replace my headlight switch. I've loosed the 27 mm nut and backed it out flush with the steering column and put a puller on it. I've cranked so hard I've stripped the threads in the wheel. I've been spraying it with BP blaster the whole time everyday for over a week. At this point I'm unsure of what I'm doing wrong because the wheel seems very stuck. Any help is appreciated.
The steering wheel nut has to be completely removed, then install the puller.
 

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The steering wheel nut has to be completely removed, then install the puller.
The conventional wisdom is that the end of the column will "bell mouth" if you crank down the puller with no nut in place. See the last sentence in post #3 above, written by not2old4toys
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The conventional wisdom is that the end of the column will "bell mouth" if you crank down the puller with no nut in place. See the last sentence in post #3 above, written by not2old4toys
Since I'm in the middle of this awful process I must agree with alfajay. Without the nut the input shaft would mushroom out with all the pressure from the puller and hammer strikes. It only takes a mm or 2 to make the input shaft useless. Also the nut keeps the wheel from flying off and hitting you. I dont mean to bash just dont want someone to wreck their car.
 
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