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Hi, after reading many of the comments here, jumped into replacing the front suspension lower A-Arm bearings.
Though I would just show one method similar to many to hopefully help anyone in the future.
When I was looking at ride height, I struggled to move arm much below 90 degrees (horizontal) and it felt really restricted like it was locking. Moving the A-arm up was much less of an issue - so could clearly tell the bushes were buggered.
Will the front wheel assembly off, had to stand on the a-arm to get enough clearance to pull the two chassis bolts to get it off.
Once A-Arm was free could not really move the centre pivot more than 30 degrees - manual etc say should be 360 rotation.
Removed the locking bolt, end hub bolt, loosen but really importantly left each inner retaining bolt for the bearings to protect the thread.
Applied a ball joint separator I had - 2 arm bearing puller - had to use a spade drill bit to space it hooks out from the bearing so it would come free.
I left the bolts on as it felt like with the pressure I was going to need it would bugger the threads at the top end .
1671934

heaps of time letting releasing compound get in there and gentle wind down - small pop and it was away.
The bottom bearing came out sweet, it was in ok condition. The top bearing was buggered and disintegrated during removal attempt leaving the outer casing
1671935
1671936

can see the top bearing falling apart.

1671937

Bearing shell left. Gentlty could tap this out taking great care not to scratch barrel (punch with a double heat shrink covering on tip to stop it scratching - been there don't ask :)
1671938
 

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Hi, after reading many of the comments here, jumped into replacing the front suspension lower A-Arm bearings.
Though I would just show one method similar to many to hopefully help anyone in the future.
When I was looking at ride height, I struggled to move arm much below 90 degrees (horizontal) and it felt really restricted like it was locking. Moving the A-arm up was much less of an issue - so could clearly tell the bushes were buggered.
Will the front wheel assembly off, had to stand on the a-arm to get enough clearance to pull the two chassis bolts to get it off.
Once A-Arm was free could not really move the centre pivot more than 30 degrees - manual etc say should be 360 rotation.
Removed the locking bolt, end hub bolt, loosen but really importantly left each inner retaining bolt for the bearings to protect the thread.
Applied a ball joint separator I had - 2 arm bearing puller - had to use a spade drill bit to space it hooks out from the bearing so it would come free.
I left the bolts on as it felt like with the pressure I was going to need it would bugger the threads at the top end .
View attachment 1671934
heaps of time letting releasing compound get in there and gentle wind down - small pop and it was away.
The bottom bearing came out sweet, it was in ok condition. The top bearing was buggered and disintegrated during removal attempt leaving the outer casing
View attachment 1671935 View attachment 1671936
can see the top bearing falling apart.

View attachment 1671937
Bearing shell left. Gentlty could tap this out taking great care not to scratch barrel (punch with a double heat shrink covering on tip to stop it scratching - been there don't ask :)
View attachment 1671938
Thanks for posting, I will probably be doing this later in the year.
 

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A hydraulic press works nice as well, it's what I did for my 'Fetta's arms. It's pretty terrifying waiting for them to break loose and hear that loud pop, but other than that they came right out.
 

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Hydraulic shop press it the best for both removal and reinstall. Maybe a local shop can press out for you. Otherwise you’re just “beating around the bushes”.
The press will feel like it’s going to break everything but the arms are plenty strong. It’s like waiting for a big jack in the box to go pop.
 
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