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I am in the process of building a new GTV6 endurance race car. During the the long glorious life of the car there is a high likely hood of the car being gently tapped in the rear by a lesser car. It seems GTV6 tail lights are becoming kind of rare and expensive.

So rather than sacrificing a set of tail lights I am going to mount something else to the rear of the car. I'd like some that contributes to the sexy looks of the car yet is readily available and inexpensive.

So please chime in with your opinions. Personally I always liked the less is more looks, like the Ferrari Dino tail lights.

And please no "Why u rune Klassic" comments.

I'm cross posting this to the Motor Sport thread.

Greg
 

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I never liked the rear lights compared to the slimmer ones on the Alfetta. Although I like the Dino lights and think they work on almost everything I think it might be better to stick with angular lights to fit the original design.
My guess is an endurance car will need brake and running (tail) lights? How about just using the Alfetta top lens (brake light) and just making your own LED fixture to go with it? The lens remains relatively cheap.
 

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Chuck on some trailer lights ... its a race car, so might as well keep it simple and cheap.

Pete
 

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There is a possibility to race with original looks (lenses) and risk if they are crashed. You could buy new lenses and put them on the shelf in case of breaking.
Both new and old style lenses are available from a source. In racing visibilty is first consideration and not old or new style of lens as braking lights wants to be seen! The new style lens would cost 130 EUR while on the old system there are two glasses for 120EUR. So not so cheap but they can be ordered.
Also one could upgrade the lamps with LED ligths for better visibility, whatever lenses you are going to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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In agreeing with the suggestion of a Dino-like option, round options won't look as out of place as most other shapes back there. Maybe consider a larger diameter lens than the Dino, and sunken into that sheet metal panel similar to the silver Corvette. Two per side, spaced farther apart than the Dino. Examples of C3 Corvette and Dino shown below.

images.jpeg
images-2.jpeg
images-3.jpeg
 

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Make copies of the Alfetta lights from a silicone mold. Pretty easy to do and if you take your time they are as nice as new, if you rush it they will still be good enough for racing.
 

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Make copies of the Alfetta lights from a silicone mold. Pretty easy to do and if you take your time they are as nice as new, if you rush it they will still be good enough for racing.
Hey 4SFED4 - I was thinking about something like that for me... any insight or links how to do that?
 

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If intending to enter proper classic racing events it has to look original, but if this GTV6 is being turned into a full on race car, it is no longer a classic car, just another race car. Therefore cheap, functional and light weight is all that matters, not looks.
Pete
 

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If intending to enter proper classic racing events it has to look original, but if this GTV6 is being turned into a full on race car, it is no longer a classic car, just another race car. Therefore cheap, functional and light weight is all that matters, not looks.
Pete
I really do feel enlightened now... no joke! Thank you for your inspiration!
 

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I really do feel enlightened now... no joke! Thank you for your inspiration!
Yeah sorry for being Captain Obvious, but sometimes the poster needs it spelt out.

I also remember many years ago when I was involved in classic car racing when my engine builder debated with me that my Alfa Sud was not longer a classic car, but just a race car. His point was as soon as I drill the first hole in it to modify it for racing, my attitude had changed and it was not just a race car. In hindsight he's right, but I do think there is a place for classic racing, as long as hero drivers are not permitted, because racing does not have to be at the expense of the cars
Pete
 

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If you want to mold new lenses, the Alfetta slit lenses would be easier than the larger GTV6 lenses, of course. If you have a set of the 4 plastic slit units, you can use those as masters. Even if your lenses are broken (cleanly) you can glue them back into one piece for this use. RTV Silicone should work best for a 2-piece mold per lens. Castable transparent polymers and epoxies can be found for the actual parts. Plus a mold release agent and a clay like Plasticene (auto sculpting clay has too much sulphur in it, and the RTV will react badly). Dyes can be added to the polymer to create a red or amber lens, or can be painted with a candy red or amber spray paint in a few coats. Thin plywood or cardboard can make a solid frame if desired. Once you have the molds completed, you can cast as many copies as you like. If that hasn't scared you off, I can explain further.

Another option could be this, if you prefer the larger GTV6 lenses--- I have several of those that are not in the greatest shape. I could sell you these for cheap to use for racing.

Good luck with whichever route you choose,
Peter
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Discussion Starter #13
The GTV6 will be used in various endurance racing series. AER, 24 Hours of LeMons, Champ Car etc. I won't be running it in any vintage events except perhaps the upcoming Alfas at the Glen.

Greg
 

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Wicked cool! Pretty easy, and ability is there to customize once the mold is made. My imagination is off and running... Thanks!
 

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Anyone who'd like to e-mail me, I can give you a rundown on ways to approach that. I've used silicone rubber molds as a rule. But you can even make molds from Bondo on simple parts. You may want to study up a bit on 'part lines' if you aren't familiar with them.

In watching the video above, I think his demonstration is as good as I could offer, including all the materials needed. So you probably don't need me now. The only thing I might add is that his part did not have a staggered part line (his was the simplest version). So, if your part is not this simple you may have to make a few adjustments. Altho, using a rubber mold has more forgiveness than a rigid mold (Bondo or HydroStone plaster) in not having a part trapped in the mold.

Cheers,
Peter
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I'm not sure round lights would go well in the GTV6 body, as overall the GTV6 consists of mostly sharper lines and angles.

I'd be inclined to put something like a couple of these on each side (top and bottom, they should fill the existing holes somewhat):


bs
That was my thought too. I might try something like that on our Milano too, lose the stock lights.
 

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I'm very close to be able to print a very nice lens with a 3d ABS/PLA printer.... I never had high hopes for these things in my lifetime.... but you would be shocked at how nice of items you can print... buy some of the right material and you can easily print a beauty...

 

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I'm very close to be able to print a very nice lens with a 3d ABS/PLA printer....
very interested to see how you come along with 3D print! I think this is the future for replacement lenses and similar. Plus, it allows for infinite customization!
 
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