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Reimagined tail lights suggestions

3K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  Peter A 
#1 ·
I am in the process of building a new GTV6 endurance race car. During the the long glorious life of the car there is a high likely hood of the car being gently tapped in the rear by a lesser car. It seems GTV6 tail lights are becoming kind of rare and expensive.

So rather than sacrificing a set of tail lights I am going to mount something else to the rear of the car. I'd like some that contributes to the sexy looks of the car yet is readily available and inexpensive.

So please chime in with your opinions. Personally I always liked the less is more looks, like the Ferrari Dino tail lights.

And please no "Why u rune Klassic" comments.

I'm cross posting this to the Motor Sport thread.

Greg
 
#2 ·
I never liked the rear lights compared to the slimmer ones on the Alfetta. Although I like the Dino lights and think they work on almost everything I think it might be better to stick with angular lights to fit the original design.
My guess is an endurance car will need brake and running (tail) lights? How about just using the Alfetta top lens (brake light) and just making your own LED fixture to go with it? The lens remains relatively cheap.
 
#4 ·
There is a possibility to race with original looks (lenses) and risk if they are crashed. You could buy new lenses and put them on the shelf in case of breaking.
Both new and old style lenses are available from a source. In racing visibilty is first consideration and not old or new style of lens as braking lights wants to be seen! The new style lens would cost 130 EUR while on the old system there are two glasses for 120EUR. So not so cheap but they can be ordered.
Also one could upgrade the lamps with LED ligths for better visibility, whatever lenses you are going to use.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
In agreeing with the suggestion of a Dino-like option, round options won't look as out of place as most other shapes back there. Maybe consider a larger diameter lens than the Dino, and sunken into that sheet metal panel similar to the silver Corvette. Two per side, spaced farther apart than the Dino. Examples of C3 Corvette and Dino shown below.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive exterior
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive exterior
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Sports car Coupé
 
#12 ·
If you want to mold new lenses, the Alfetta slit lenses would be easier than the larger GTV6 lenses, of course. If you have a set of the 4 plastic slit units, you can use those as masters. Even if your lenses are broken (cleanly) you can glue them back into one piece for this use. RTV Silicone should work best for a 2-piece mold per lens. Castable transparent polymers and epoxies can be found for the actual parts. Plus a mold release agent and a clay like Plasticene (auto sculpting clay has too much sulphur in it, and the RTV will react badly). Dyes can be added to the polymer to create a red or amber lens, or can be painted with a candy red or amber spray paint in a few coats. Thin plywood or cardboard can make a solid frame if desired. Once you have the molds completed, you can cast as many copies as you like. If that hasn't scared you off, I can explain further.

Another option could be this, if you prefer the larger GTV6 lenses--- I have several of those that are not in the greatest shape. I could sell you these for cheap to use for racing.

Good luck with whichever route you choose,
Peter
uncleskeeter2@netscpe.net
 
#13 ·
The GTV6 will be used in various endurance racing series. AER, 24 Hours of LeMons, Champ Car etc. I won't be running it in any vintage events except perhaps the upcoming Alfas at the Glen.

Greg
 
#16 · (Edited)
Anyone who'd like to e-mail me, I can give you a rundown on ways to approach that. I've used silicone rubber molds as a rule. But you can even make molds from Bondo on simple parts. You may want to study up a bit on 'part lines' if you aren't familiar with them.

In watching the video above, I think his demonstration is as good as I could offer, including all the materials needed. So you probably don't need me now. The only thing I might add is that his part did not have a staggered part line (his was the simplest version). So, if your part is not this simple you may have to make a few adjustments. Altho, using a rubber mold has more forgiveness than a rigid mold (Bondo or HydroStone plaster) in not having a part trapped in the mold.

Cheers,
Peter
uncleskeeter2@netscape.net
 
#17 ·
#19 ·
I'm very close to be able to print a very nice lens with a 3d ABS/PLA printer.... I never had high hopes for these things in my lifetime.... but you would be shocked at how nice of items you can print... buy some of the right material and you can easily print a beauty...

 
#22 ·
If you want to skip creating a dimensioned file from scratch, you could have an original part laser scanned fairly cheaply. That would give you a digital file with all the fine details that could be 3D printed. Agencies that do 3D printing often have the laser scan option in their services. Just a thought.

Peter
 
#23 ·
The Alfetta-style lights look way better than the "modernized" restyIe of the gtv6 clusters (likewise the side skirts and bumpers) but I have always though that I wanted round lights on the back of my GTV6.
 
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