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You can lose about 20 - 25 lbs by swapping out the standard heavy battery for a light weight compact battery like a Braille that weighs 21 lbs. Even better, install it in back and you take about 40 to 45 lbs off of the nose and clear out a lot of space around the driver side of the engine compartment.
 

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don't know about some of you.. but i rathee 'walk' away from a car crash ..then..lets see...DIE...... check out the youtube site, i belive it is a crash of a 2009 malibu vrs a chevy shoebox..( i think it's a 56 belair).. but i am pretty shure one or some of you think it was a set up..a conspiracy.... you can add hp pretty easy.. cams. little higher compression..losing that extra weight..( i.e. lite beer:):) ) i weigh in at 175 pounds. and stay army fit...
 

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2009 vs 1959, and yes, it was staged to make the '09

OLD video, 2009 vs 1959, and yes, it was staged to make the '09 look good.
A more centered hit would have yielded a very different result.

I would rather be nimble and avoid a wreck than depend on driving a bumper-car!

Unintended consequences, too many people drive like idiots because they think the car will protect them from their stupidity.

I've seen several variations of Alfa bumpers, none are good for more than knocking over trash cans.

It's the engineered crumple zone that absorbs impact on an Alfa Spider, while destroying the car.
The "Shock Absorbers" are only there to hopefully LIMIT sheetmetal damage up to 5 MPH at the behest of insurance companies.

In a genuine wreck they will not provide significant protection over a fiberglass bumper.
In fact a fiberglass bumper filled with expanded foam would absorb some impact a stock bumper transmits, as it would become a small crumple zone itself.

Can you imagine what the Spider would look like, and what it would weigh, if the insurance lobby had gotten the 15 MPH bumpers they were demanding? :eek:
 

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jetmore. just like that president that sent me to Iraq, with falty intel, about wmd, and got 2 of my freinds killed...
 

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just a note.. the front 74 and earlyer bumper is heavy with the mounts, the rear is light.. also the rear bumper off an early 320i can be made to fit, very easy..
 

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what is the cost on the upgrades to the wheels, injectors, headers, cat that you mention? also, how much extra hp or torque are we talking about?
To get extra HP, torque, etc., the answer is : :How much money do you have? Spend it all and get lots more."

i would like to know if i can reasonably bring the car to a streetable and reliable 14.5 quarter mile car?
Who cares? These cars will get nothing but giggles at a drag strip, no matter how they perform. That's just not their venue, and you'll never beat a 65 Chevelle with a big block, blower, and NOS.

OTOH, a street 67 Alfa will lap the same Chevelle at Laguna Seca or most any other sports car track. That's what they are for.

NOS is really useless in Alfas. It barely lasts across the intersection. You need to add multiple fuel pumps to get enough gas, and you get abysmal milage. Keeping head gaskets together with NOS will drive you nuts.

A good 65 - 70's GTV, with a sanctioned roll cage, stripped and prepped for proper road racing, can get under 850 Kilos. Many of the factory racers did. 200+ Hp in a car under 1900 lbs will scare the stuffing out of you on any track, until you learn how to actually drive well.

Go to a local club autocross and watch Alfas and tiny Japanese cars suck the doors of 400 HP Corvettes.

Robert
 

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Got a couple laps around Laguna-Seca in a TZ ......

Got a couple laps around Laguna-Seca in an Alfa TZ vintage racer several years ago.

1600 engine pulled like he had a small-block v8.
Could have done the proverbial $100.00 taped to the windshield!

I'm pretty sure it was not his huge horsepower that made that possible, more likely the very light "TZ" construction.

I asked him who did his cams, they were a DeLong grind.

My Marcos is a poor mans equivalent, with similar weight and a decent looking body. :cool:
If you really want a very fast Alfa, build a light custom chassis, and put a CF body shell on it.
No NOS required. ;)
 

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Getting rid of 200# will not get you a heap of performance. The limitations are the Bosch FI fuel delivery capacity, The restrictive CAT and restrictive one piece exhaust manifold.
I disagree. Weight reduction is more effective than added HP, as it helps with not just acceleration, but also cornering and braking. The car will have better performance all around, not just under acceleration.

If we assume roughly 15 lb per hp, then reducing weight by 200 lbs is like adding 13+ hp, which is not insignificant.

That said, yes, the late Spica and Bosch Spiders do seem a bit strangled.

I don't know where the OP lives, but if it's a sunny climate and the car is not a daily driver, he might consider removing the top altogether. I haven't had the top up in my Spider in 20 years or so, and next time I paint it I'm thinking of just tossing the whole thing.

bs
 

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yes L jet is a mess. the L jet flap is wide open at 4000-4300 rpm. but you can put LH jet on the car,, much better.. as LH jet is digital system..hot wire air flow sensor. etc.. if you make the hood and trunk lid out of glass, you can save some weight there.. maita seats are quite light..drive wearing a 'speedo' save weight on all that chothes..thinking about that last statement..seen some of you guys.. speedo's would not work:):)
 

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How to lose 350 pounds

I started with a parts car that came with shot seats and no interior panels or carpets. It's an '88 Veloce Spider. Because a full interior is expensive, I made panels from used aluminium printing plates obtained at the local newspaper ($0.40 each). Since the estimate I got for redoing the seats was $300 each, I opted for aluminum racing seats (at 18 lbs. each versus about 40 lbs. for the stock seats in leather). Those work, since my wife insisted on a roll bar (because our son was spared injuries when he flipped his '72 Bronco). The roll bar and racing seats look fine together.

On a couple very cold days I went after all the tar-like sound deadening with a ball-peen hammer and a chisel. Came out nicely. There was lots of the stuff, but I didn't weigh it.

My front and rear bumper were shot, so I left them off, filling the gap up front with sheet aluminum. The car had been sitting a long time, so whatever gas had been in it had long since turned to tar. Out came the gas tank and the heavy framework over it. I replaced it with a 10-gal. aluminum fuel cell. And since I was working back in the trunk area, I fabricated an aluminum tray to hold a lightweight Braille racing battery (weighs 15 pounds).

I pulled the motors and associated cables and so forth from the doors, so the windows now go up and down as suggested above -- on leather straps. And I got rid of the electric exterior mirrors (because one was gone), replacing them with light racing mirrors that are smallish and hard to adjust, but look cool.

I carry no spare (but do have towing insurance) and I don't have a jack.

I weighed the car at the beginning of summer. It totaled 2,190 with a half tank of gas. With another five gallons, it would be just a tad over 2,200 pounds. That's about 350 pounds off the weight Alfa claimed for the '88.

Last week I replaced the stock (heavy) cast exhaust manifold with headers and an earlier exhaust system. There are two mufflers in this system, but in the future I'll likely lose the back one and replace it with a stinger, gaining better sound and a little less weight. The shop welded in a bung for an O2 sensor and installed a new one. (A bad O2 sensor recently resulted in very rich running, which resulted in a melted cat and collapsed muffler.)

The car is now nimble and fairy quick, but I have nothing to compare it with, since it's my first Alfa. It is noisy, however -- too noisy for a radio, which it doesn't have.

What's it all cost? Well, I rebuilt the engine and transmission, telling my wife I'd invest no more than another $2,500 over the original $450 purchase price. And what is the total now? Ooh, I'd rather not say in print. Let's just say that the $2,500 ceiling blew by long ago.

What's left to do in the lightening arena? I'd like to replace the 14-inch wheels with lighter 15s (Panasports?) and -- someday -- I'd like a lightened flywheel. After that, I'll have to buy horsepower if I want more performance. And as mentioned above, added horsepower is more expensive than throwing away excess heavy parts.

You can visit a thread on these changes here. The photo below is the car just after it was painted.
 

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Hey, I like that '88!

If the OP gets to making CF doors at a good price I may be in for a set.
I am sure they are the heaviest loose body component on the entire car.

CF hood & boot, would be nice too, and pretty simple.
Be sure to include metal braces for the attachment points.
And you will probably have to soften up whatever springs assist with opening too.

I would do the bumpers first.
 

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Looks good, Wingwalker.

I stripped an S4 recently and was amazed at the weight of the steering box. I haven't weighed it yet but it is a lump! One of the reasons the S4, with its power steering etc, has excess weight vs. earlier versions.

Incidentally, I like the yellow cup holder at the front of the bumper, the coffee must cool pretty quick out there:D
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Sorry

I get the feeling I ticked some people off. I only made a comment about the federal government imposing it's laws on me as ludicrius (sp?) in light of the goings on. I did not want to get into a debate. Sorry if I offended, and this was not my intent.

About the nitrous, I don't see it as an issue as, in small doses, which is how i accelerate sometimes, it is fun for 10 seconds at a time of real gusto. I am not trying to race an ls2, I only enjoy acceleration, as I came from Vettes and a Porsche 911, and 928. G force is fun, in small doses. I know I cannot speedshift this car, nor do I wish to, rather, I like to feel acceleration 5 times a month. My friend Ansel Marshall, who is a local legend, and used to own M & W motors knows how to make stuff run well. Even retired he works on Ferraris, 911 transmissions, Maseratis, and all the weird stuff most are afraid to touch. He assured me we could put a 50 shot of nitrous to reliably use in my car. Yes, I know nitrous is bad if you get greedy with it, which is why he told me not to go over a 50 shot for a 2 litre. I don't know of a better bang for the buck than a small shot of nitrous, save that of, dropping some weight from the car. For me, dropping 200 pounds from the car, having a 50 shot of nitrous, would simply make the car fun on the street, and would allow me to play a little when the little honda with the k & N filter gets frisky, that's all. I appreciate the input of all of you. And, to the gentleman who lost his friends over there, I am sorry, really, really sorry for your loss. Thank you.
 

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Dual cupholders

Yep, Anglo Spider, this one has an identical cupholder in the rear, as well. After all, the may passenger need cool coffee from time to time.

Actually, the tow-hooks meet SCCA ITB rule requirements (for a tow hook with a 2-inch opening). I'm not sure I'll ever race this car in that class, but it makes sense to keep it within the rules as I modify it. Our cars came with little tow hooks, but those in front on this car were mangled. I'm going to cut them away this winter to save a few ounces on the nose.

As for bumpers, there is a heavy aluminum extruded piece in the rear bumper that is then covered with all that heavy rubber. I pulled the aluminum piece out and cut away some of the weight. I then fashioned corners of fiberglass. I even painted it. But when it came time to bolt it on I just couldn't bring myself to hang another hunk of metal on the back end of the car. So it sits in my shop gathering dust. And I thought of fabricating an all-fiberglass rear bumper, but realized it wouldn't add any real protection. So, I drive defensively and choose my parking spots with great care.

Larry
 

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Jetmore, I didn't sense anyone was p**ssed but maybe I'm insentitive!

I'm with you on the acceleration in bursts - sometimes you just want to redline it through all the gears without racing some kid with a soup-can exhaust on his lowered Renault Clio.
Over here its hard to find the clear roads you need but when you do its fun:)
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Weight distribution

One thing i wonder, is, wouldn't it be better if the battery were more in the center of the car if i am evenly losing weight on both ends, it seems in front of the rear axle would be a better spot for the battery. In fact, behind the passenger seat seems like the best place to me.

any thoughts on this?
 

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One thing i wonder, is, wouldn't it be better if the battery were more in the center of the car if i am evenly losing weight on both ends, it seems in front of the rear axle would be a better spot for the battery. In fact, behind the passenger seat seems like the best place to me.

any thoughts on this?
That's exactly how my Spider is set up. A Braille battery sits in a compartment built into the space under the shelf behind the seats. It's on the passenger side. You cans see the location in the photos below. The plate with the bolts around the outside edge on the left in the first photo and on the right in the second photo supports the battery.


 

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What kind of rear muffler is that?
 
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