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Hi guys - is the accepted wisdom to try and rebuild the single circuit brake MC and booster, or better to just source one from Classic Alfa etc... ?

OR - and I know this is similar to asking best color/engine oil/model year/1750 vs 2000 engine - run without a booster?

Thanks.

(ducking for cover)
 

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The key thing on both is the condition of the bore. If good, I'd hone (as finely as you can) and rebuild. If it's corroded on the bottom of the bore, even with new seals it'll fail/leak again before too long. You can re-sleeve, though for an MC it might be cheaper to go new. On a booster, it's like $400 new; and rebuild kits from Classic Alfa are just over $100, so that might be more economical. I did two boosters last year, both working OK.

Andrew
 

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Hi guys - is the accepted wisdom to try and rebuild the single circuit brake MC and booster, or better to just source one from Classic Alfa etc... ?
You might want to read the thread I started 4+ years ago at: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/suspension-steering-brakes-wheels-tires/162135-master-cylinder-conversion-105s.html

While buying a new MC is certainly more costly than honing and rebuilding your old one, I felt that the cost was worth it to get the superior design (IMHO) of the ATE. Of course, if your car already has an ATE then that factor isn't pertinent.

OR....run without a booster?
Sorry, I don't understand the question. Why would you want to eliminate the booster? If you have a reason, then perhaps it's a good one. But in isolation, this question is like asking "OR....run without a left rear wheel?"
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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Just give yourself extra distance to stop. How much depends on how strong your right leg is.
 

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You can go without a booster if you like a much firmer pedal, or change master cylinder bore to get the hydraulic leverages to work. Early Duettos had a different MC size and no booster.

I personally wouldn't do without, but folks do.

Andrew
 
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