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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello All,

I did a search, and could not find a step by step procedure.

I think that it will also be very similiar for earlier models, but please check yours.

Firstly, I would like to thank the many various threads and posts by BB members that I used to study from.

Also, I would like to thank papajam, a Mentor in every sense of the word, who always takes my calls and walked me through this change.

Next, while I did take a lot of pictures during the change, there were a few steps that I did miss or thought of a better way of doing the step later. So if you see the same picture, once to take bolts out and later the same picture to put the bolts back in, you are seeing the same picture, but the step is correct.

Some tools that I did not have, that you may or may not have but will need for this project:

(2) - 24mm sockets, one MUST be deep set
(2) - 22mm sockets (deep set not necessary)

If you are planning this project in the future, I would start spraying the front and rear trailing arm bushings with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster or your choice of chemicals to help loosen the rust that is surely there.

I did not change the trunion to body bushings as many have said that they rarely need changing, and they really look like a PIA to do, so I took their advice. I inspected the trunion to body washers and mine were present and looked in good shape so I didn't need to replace, but if yours are missing or broken, you should replace (an easy thing to do).

If I have missed something, please let me know and I will correct it.

I am not a mechanic, but like most of us that have Alfa's, am learning and hopefully, this will help someone take the job on.

Let's start!

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The first step may seem a little strange, but it comes into use later upon re-assembly. With the car resting on the ground, measure the droop in the straps. I used sockets of various sizes until I found one that was snug inside the droop.
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Mine was a 20mm droop.
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Place jack stands under the jack points and remove wheels for better vision and access.
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At this point the axle will be resting on the straps.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Remove parking brake wire clip from passenger side trailing arm.
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Remove nuts securing bottom of shock to trailing arm. Mine was 14mm, but yours could be different.
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Using 17mm socket, remove nut holding bottom of swaybar endlink to axle.
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Place jack under rear most part of trailing arm and lift just a bit higher than the trailing arm link. Using a deep set 24mm socket and a normal set 24mm socket on the bolt head, remove the nut. You will see that the piece of wood I first used, was too long, so much that I couldnt get the bolt out. You will see in later pictures, I shortened up the side that the bolt comes out.
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Pull the long bolt that holds the rear of the trailing arm to the axle.
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SLOWLY lower the jack as you are releasing the energy in the spring and you don't want that popping out of control.
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Remove the spring.
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Using 22mm sockets, remove the nut from the front of the trailing arm.
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Remove the trailing arm.
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Using 14mm socket, remove 2 bolts attaching swaybar to body.
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Here you can see the the trunion to body washers. Mine were in good shape, meaning they were present, not chipped. If I had to replace them, even though I I didn't remove the trunion to body, you can get the replacements, cut a slit in them and install.
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Un attach the muffler hanger so that you can pull the swaybar assembly out in one piece through the back without having to perform contorsions.
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Pull the swaybar over the muffler and out.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And here we have the swaybar assembly, trailing arms and springs. Time for a cleanup!
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Remove sway bar rubber bushing to body and stopper.
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Remove endlinks from swaybar. Mine were so bad that I could turn them by hand, they disintegrated right there!:eek: If not, you could burn the center part out or drill the rubber (I did that for most of the bushings).
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Since the upper endlink is pressed onto the swaybar, the center sleeve stayed on the swaybar. I used vice grips on the sleeve, couple of good whacks with a hammer and off came the sleeve.
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I don't have a press or air tools, so I had to do it the hard way. As I said, I drilled out the rubber to get the center sleeve out and then used a hacksaw to cut the outer sleeve. I made 2 cuts then used a flat screwdriver to lift the cut. This gave enough to twist and pull the sleeve out.
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Here we have the 4 sleeves. That was some tough slugging with them being rusted up like that. A good reminder to use Anti Seize on the install.
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My rule of thumb was to put anti seize on all metal to metal contacts. First I installed the swaybar endlink bushings. Anti seize.
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When installing the bushings, they have a chamfered end to make installation easier. It's not the easiest to find, but look for it and you will see it. The chamfered end is the end that goes in first.

These bushings weren't too big so I used my bench vice and a larger socket to press the busing in.
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I used a combination of the bench vice and a ball joint press to press the front and rear bushings of the trailing arm.
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On to the trunion. Pull the cotter pin holding the nut.
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Using a 22mm socket, remove the nut holding the trunion to the differential.
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Remove the large washer (I don't know what else to call it).
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Remove the left rubber bushing. Now there is also a rubber bushing on the other side, but you need to push the differential off the trunion to get at it. I tried to just push it over, but the stud, was still a good inch into the trunion. So I had to take the drive shaft off the differential to be able to push it all the way over.
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I marked the driveshaft orientation to the differential. Couldn't find chalk so I used one of my wife's tea light candles :D:D:D
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Remove the 4 bolts attaching the drive shaft to the differential. I think that the rear differential seal on mine has been changed, because there was a lot of oil sprayed on the body just above it and I need 1/2" socket to get the bolts out here. I am sure they were replaced as everything else on the car is metric.
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Drop the drive shaft carefully.
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Now you can easily move the entire axle over so that the trunion comes off the bolt. Remove other rubber bushing.
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My rule of thumb for grease on this project was to apply white lithium grease to any rubber surfaces that come into contact with metal. Apply grease to trunion rubber bushings.
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Insert right bushing, re-place trunion over bolt, instert left bushing. Replace that washer and hand tighten the nut, not all the way. That is coming up.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Align the drive shaft and the differential with the marking and re attach 4 bolts.
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Here is a picture of the before and after I cleaned up the parts and gave a fresh coat of Tremclad semi gloss.
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Attach front of trailing arm bolt using 22mm socket. Do not tighten.
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If yours came with this, slide this sleeve back onto the spring. Papajam lets me know that this sleeve was added to stop or reduce vibration in the springs at a certain speed or road conditions.
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Insert the spring, flat side up, pig tail down. Ensure that the pig tail is up against the "bump" in the pan.
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Place jack under rear most of trailing arm and lift. Insert long bolt.
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Using 24mm socket, put nut on long bolt. Do not tighten.
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Now, we are about to tighten everything down. First thing is the simulate the weight of the vehicle on the bushings. As I understand it, if you tighten the bushings without the weight, you will keep the bushings in such a postition that when the weight is on them, they will tear away from the sleeves, not making them very usefull.

Raise the axle by the diiferential to simulate the weight of the car when resting on wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Raise the axle to match the droop measured right at the begining.
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Using 22mm sockets, torque the front of the trailing arms. S4 Shop manual calls for 59 - 72.3 ft lbs.
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Using 24mm sockets, torque the rear of the trailing arms. S4 shop manual calls for 79.7 - 98.1 ft lbs.
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Using 22mm for the nut and 19mm socket on the bolt head, torque the trunion bolt. S4 shop manual calls for 73.8 - 90.7 ft lbs.
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Insert new cotter pin and bend back.
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Now I had some "fun" here attaching the end links to the swaybar. Like I said, I don't have a press at home. Since these are a press fit and have to be attached at a certain angle to the axle and the swaybar to the body I had a hard time figuring out how to attach them properly. So I put the swaybar in, put the bottom endlink onto the large bolt. Then press the upper endlink to the swaybar to get the right angle. I could only press together a bit, but enough to get the right angle.
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Remove the swaybar with the one endlink attached and head down to where you have a bench vice. No press, so brute strength needed. I placed the swaybar in the vice, used a piece of flat stock, a good hammer and drove them in. With the one side fully assembled, I put the assembly on the ground and easily had the other side angle match the first. Some pretty hard hitting.
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Bushings attached to swaybar.
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Attatch new swaybar to body rubber bushings and stoppers.
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Install the swaybar over the muffler to get it into position.
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Using 14mm socket, install the sway bar to body clamps, set and tighten the stoppers just on the inset side of the rubber bushings.
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Using 17mm socket torque nut to bottom of endlink to large bolt at rear of trailing arm. S4 shop manual calls for 23.6 - 25.1 ft lbs.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re connect muffler hanger.
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Re connect bottom of shocks.
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Re connect parking brake cable clip to passenger side trailing arm.
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That's it!

A great satisfying project and your car will love you for it :D

Vin
 

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Beautiful!!
Thanks for the step-by-step and for sharing. Very valuable info and mucho appreciated!!
 
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