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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone place a picture of how the rear parcel shelf on a 2000 GTV integrates with the rear screen rubber seal. Does the vertical trim at the dge of the parcel shelf slide below the rubber seal or does it stop against it?

Thanks.

Joseph
 

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In my 2 litre, which I assume is original in the trim dept, the rear shelf just butts against the rear screen seal-in fact there is a small gap between the two where you can ,if one looks through the rear window, you can see steel.

Richard J
`65 Giulia Ti 1600, `69 GT Junior, `74 GTV 2000, `76 Alfetta GTV, `77 Alfetta GTV, `84 GTV6
 

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Actually, I'd say the gap is wider than a "small gap" - I'd say it's 3/8" - 1/2". My own car is apart, and I have been collecting pictures of this detail. The one attached was taken at a show, and I believe that car is correct (sorry for the glare).

You will notice that there are slots at the back of the sheetmetal near the base of the rear windshield - these seem to circulate air up toward the glass to keep it defogged. No, I don't know where the air is sourced from - there is sort of a plenum in this area. So, the metal trim piece needs to be some distance ahead of the rubber seal to provide space for air circulation.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys for your help. I'm in the process of making a new parcel shelf and wanted to know how much tolerance I have in way of the vertical trim. The shelf shall be covered with real leather and the last thing I want is a big surprise when fitting it. But now I know I have nothing to worry about.

By the way, I'm taking the shape over from the original hardboard shelf and it appears that it is not symmetrical! The deviation starts just at the point where the vertical trim stops. The sides appear to be cut at different angles. Not much but it's there. So is this again an Alfa phenomenon or is this on purpose?

Joseph
 

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Joseph i'm doing the same work. You are using real leather isn't that overkill? I've heard that it won't last as long and it's more demanding
Are you also making the trim piece (it's made of thick paper) that goes between shelf and rubber/glass?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Kalispera,

Well, to give you the reason, I am restoring the original interior, which is also of real leather. And after all that work, I decided to spoil myself with the final touch of real leather on the parcel shelf and the footwells.

The previous owner had also recovered the parcel shelf with a piece of real lether and it was still in quite a good state. My car will not be a daily driver, it will be a third car to be used only for some short holidays and lerrands, so I think the shelf will not really be hard used.

Concerning the trim, my original trim was salvageable. It had become soft but was still in very good shape. I treated it with a product used for hardening rotten wood (it's a very thin liquid) and it became very hard and strong. It actually became so hard that I think I will now have problems with driving the staples in so probably I will have to use an air stapler.

Joseph
 

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note that GTV-GR asks, "Are you also making the trim piece (it's made of thick paper) that goes between shelf and rubber/glass?".
It resembles the edge of a tea-tray, and (in my case) disintegrates showing the white paper interior. I am considering making a new shelf out of 1/8inch marine ply covered in scrim foam then grained black vinyl since water ingress has distorted the original and I'm not sure I like the 2 speakers. The card / thick paper trim referred to is (I believe) irreplaceable but an alternative I am considering would be a large diameter black beading. See Woolies Trim - Vinyl Covered
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yes, we're referring to the same thing.

For the shelf itself I have use hardwood triply treated it with an impregnator and then boat lacquer. I have done this to prevent it from warping. I had previously cut one into shape and left it a couple of weeks untreated and it bent considerably owing to humidity changes. I did not expect this as it was a very good and expensive type of hardwood (beleived to be water-resistant).

Joseph
 

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Wow that's too much work guys, i was thinking of stucking a small black hose between parcel shelf and glass (clue is to hide the metal undeneath the shelf right?)-would that suck too much???
 

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It sounds as thought some GTV2000's did not have what I earlier described as the edge of a tea-tray around the back of the shelf. Mine does (crumbly and showing its white paper insides now!) and it gets slightly 'taller' at the sides as the screen curves up and away from the shelf. With this trim, I doubt you would see metal below the screen. Certainly, I had to remove my shelf to reveal the rust below the screen which I confess I kurusted, re-sealed around top & sides of screen (after screen out) and replaced all.
 

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I fixed the shelf last night after work 30minutes PERFECT looking and cost me 7euros/bucks. I'm turning original too and i'll have a trim piece constructed which it's going to be a *****-i was thinking cardboard leather glue and 2-3 layers of vinyl to rough it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Guys,

I'm placing some photos of the original hardboard panel, the new one under way with the cardboard template and new sheets of leather to match the rest of the interior. In a separate message I will place a photo of the front seat before restoration and one of the rear seat which is ready (cleaned, new stitching, dyed and treated with leather softener and protective agents).

I have a question concerning the two holes in the rear parcel shelf accomodating the pins of the rear seat. In the original hardboard shelf there are slotted holes in way of these pins. I cannot figure out how these holes were arranged in the vinyl covering as they are pretty damaged (see photo). Any ideas??
 

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Discussion Starter #17
GTV-GR,

No, I'm not Greek, I'm Maltese (the island next to Calypso in the Greek mythology).:cool:

Since 1996 I reside in the Netherlands.
 

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Guys,

I'm placing some photos of the original hardboard panel, the new one under way with the cardboard template and new sheets of leather to match the rest of the interior. In a separate message I will place a photo of the front seat before restoration and one of the rear seat which is ready (cleaned, new stitching, dyed and treated with leather softener and protective agents).

I have a question concerning the two holes in the rear parcel shelf accomodating the pins of the rear seat. In the original hardboard shelf there are slotted holes in way of these pins. I cannot figure out how these holes were arranged in the vinyl covering as they are pretty damaged (see photo). Any ideas??

When the rear seat is installed the seat back finished top sits over both the large holes for the seat back rods and the screw holes for the screws that secure the panel to the deck, so to answer your question it really doesn't matter. The panel had slots and on the orignal unit from the factory I'm redoing the vinyl was sliced arround the slots. In my opinion, from a design perspective both the red color and the use of leather is wrong. The rear deck should mimic the dashboard, it should be black, it balances the dashboard. The red sumptuous, curvasious interior with silver exterior is extrordinary, a large matching red parcel shelf will distract from the beauty (wish I could spell) These units warp because the original vinyl expanded and contracted from the concentrated sunlight coming through the rear window that acts like a convex lens. It appears to counteract that process these cars were built with the convering material not being attached along that edge from the factory, more hanging like a flap, but they still warped. Leather is very sensative to sunlight, a large flat piece in this application is bad idea. (BTW-I worked in the furniture industry with leather). My controversial solution is to glue a very short pile black nylon carpet material for the back deck, when the car is done I'll post pix
 
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