With the driveshaft out you can jack up the front of the engine so that the tail housing is JUST low enough to push out the mount. I have only done one and it was a bear to get out. The good news is that getting the new one is easy if you heat the tail housing first.
I agree with Ed, even having the bellhousing out of the car, it was a PITA to remove the old one, but a little heat made putting a new one in easy, almost thought it was too easy. I don't think it is magnesium, had no issue with using the a tourch to warm it up, but I could be wrong.
Not by any means the last word on this, but I'm getting ready to do the same job and with the rough measurements I've taken I can't see how it's possible.
That was going to be how I did it because I wanted to clean the bell housing up. After removing the drive shaft for a rebuild I spent a good long time measuring and just looking at the space there was to work with and abandoned the idea. Even if there is enough room to get the bolts out I don't believe there's clearance to get it past the flywheel.
I was talking to RJ recently about pulling an engine from a Milano and he removes the bell housing to get the motor out. Is he the only one doing it this way? I think the procedure is loosen the pinch bolt on the drive shaft and move the motor forward to get access to the bellhousing bolts.
I've never removed the bell housing to pull an engine. Makes it interesting when you don't have a helper but not a huge issue. Also the bell housing is aluminum, not magnesium, I've had no issues using heat on them! Just make sure the new mount is square to the hole or you will really hose things up. Also toss the new mount in the freezer for a while.
99 lbs. of the GTV6 is a Magnesium alloy, a record for the time. Including the sump and sump bottom, clutch cover, and engine back cover. I'm just assuming the same for the Milano. My source is from the proceedings of the 39th World Magnesium Conference and Expo 13-15 June 1982 in Detriot. Do a quick search. It's an interesting piece.
I burned out the rubber with a MAP torch, cut a couple of slots in the outer steel shell with a Dremel and pushed out the shell with an air chisel. There may be gentler ways of doing it but I almost ran out of patience.
Yeah, that's the point. I did it the same way the last 3 times and I'm spoiled of that. I know theres an alfa special tool for it. It'a a tool that looks like a C clamp but does have a hydraulic system in it. This way you can easily press it out. One time i could borrow this tool from an old alfa garage. But this garage didn't exist anymore and the tools etc. were sold to everywhere in the world. As usual we were to late to buy it for ourself....
Here's how I did this on my GTV6. After a full restore/rebuild I got a bad vibration through the shift lever. Checked - double checked and found everything in order including alignment stuff. Bad rear motor mount. SH*T!!! PMO!!!
Driveshaft and exhaust removed, I then unbolted the motor mounts and anything that got in the way of shoving the motor forward; engine supported from the bottom naturally. Learned this trick from the Biturbo to R & R the steering rack which is easy on that car because the motor mounts are flat. The tricks one has to know to avoid being an alchie. Then removed the bell housing which I tilted the motor in the front to get the rear to drop further. Then remuva duh bell housing. Installation is the reverse of above. hahaha
I did not remove this mount as the rubber was OK just sagged. I wedged it to it's correct location and filled the voids with 2 part Polyurethane. Learned this trick back in the days when poly bushings weren't available for our BMW 'M' cars for track use. The benefit is it's basically a combo bushing and never needs replacing due to the poly filling the voids. It's not as good as a fullv poly for track use but it benefits street use to still absorbing some shock and yields a firmer feel. You can mix the catylist to whatever hardness you want.
Re-installed and no vibration. I did have to use alfaparticle's method of sorts to remove the top transaxle mount to replace with the full poly unit.
They probably have black but we wanted to see that all the voids were full. It needs to set for a few days to cure due to the constraints. If you get any on you, get it off fast as it gets HOT. Too bad your not close as I have a lot left. I could only buy the gallon and the catalyst. The gallon can comes not full to allow space for the catalyst to be added whole for intended application. Naturally, the ratio of base to catalyst is higher (more catalyst) to attain a more ridgid property for our use and not as an industrial paint coating. It was $100 for the set at the time but well worth the expense. No future worries on these bushings. The ones on my '85 BMW M635CSi, after A Lot of track time, were still fine after 15 years.
Other paint suppliers (we call coatings) probably have a comparable product.
I was in Atlanta and there's an import repair shop where I know the Owner (Alfa guy; '67 Boattail, Early GTV, etc.) who used some on his bushings. Happy, Happy, Happy!!!
That is good information. I have a couple of pieces of heater hose and black RTV filling the voids in the tranny mount on my GTV6. I wimped out on replacing it after the experience with the one in the Verde.
In order not to start a new topic. I need an advice on correct fitment of rear mount. My mechanic works with FWD Alfas and he did not notice that the rear mount is asymmetric. So the question is if we got this mount installed properly or we should place it the other way?