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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did anybody have issues with the rear mount?
The original one measured 64.05mm OD. The one I bought measured 64.3 mm. I actually got a friend to turn it down to 64.1 mm on a lathe. Also the spacing of the 2 bolt holes is too small, so the bolts don't line up. Has anybody else have these rear mount issues.
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Although, admittedly it could very well be the previous owners heinous sheet metal work. I guess it's hammer time.
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Sorry… Alfetta or gtv6? They are very different, I think…
 

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Yes... I had a real fight with that mount a couple or three years back. I actually wound up using a hone and honing out the ID of the casting, and even then it was a struggle. Freezer/heat/lubriplate... I used it all and the %#@*&$ aftermarket bushing was simply oversize. Now, I measure before I try to install things like this.
 

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Yes... I had a real fight with that mount a couple or three years back. I actually wound up using a hone and honing out the ID of the casting, and even then it was a struggle. Freezer/heat/lubriplate... I used it all and the %#@*&$ aftermarket bushing was simply oversize. Now, I measure before I try to install things like this.

Did you install it while the housing was in the car?
On my Sport Sedan there was no way to install it without having the housing out of the car. I left my original "modified" unit in there.
 

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Slowcreek, I had to replace it in the car, a GTV 6. I dropped the center support down for a bit better access.
 

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I couldn't get access that way even with the driveshaft removed. The housing wouldn't drop low enough.
who needs a bushing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Alfaloco, I suspect we got our bushings from same batch. Did the 2 holes on the mounting bush line up to the chassis? I would like to know if there was a batch that had that mounting bar dimension wrong also.

This information will help me decide whether to hammer the tunnel or use a Dremel to slot the bushing mounting bar.

Slowcreek, I think if you remove front engine mounting bolts you can tilt the engine down far enough to get a puller on it. The front engine mounts are held in place by 2 fasteners, the lower ones should be studs. Those studs are what the engine will pivot on.
 

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Alfaloco, I suspect we got our bushings from same batch. Did the 2 holes on the mounting bush line up to the chassis? I would like to know if there was a batch that had that mounting bar dimension wrong also.

This information will help me decide whether to hammer the tunnel or use a Dremel to slot the bushing mounting bar.

Slowcreek, I think if you remove front engine mounting bolts you can tilt the engine down far enough to get a puller on it.
Yes, as I recall the mount holes did line up. The only thing about the job that went right! Just get you a rotary file bit, and elongate the holes a bit as needed. They're a lot stronger than a Dremel, and probably faster.

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I rotated the motor toward the rear also, a bit, to gain better access. I used my small Harbor Freight recip saw to cut through the shell of the old bushing, and it about fell out. But installing the new one was really frustrating. I managed to remove it once, when it got hung up and wouldn't press in any farther. That's when I used my brake cylinder hone to clean up the ID of the casting. I was using a good sized C clamp, with big washers on each side, to draw the new bushing into place. I literally had to take a punch and knock it into position the last half-inch or so.

I think after that was when I posted here about low quality aftermarket parts not fitting correctly. I was indeed pissed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My attempt at getting the bolts to line up. Hasn't work yet. Next: clamping the tunnel from the top. Probably will end up slotting the mount bush.
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