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Discussion Starter #1
So, I went to get the SS back on the road (stuck clutch) and discovered that the passenger side rear drum brake is locked up. I jacked the car up and was able to get it to spin forward, but not in reverse (a problem as I need to push it out of the garage). I removed the rear wheel and have tried to gently persuade the drum to come off. It wobbles from side to side or top to bottom....maybe moves a 16th of an inch out, but I cannot get it to come off.

The car has sat for awhile. It was not stored with the ebrake applied. The cable for the ebrake appears loose on the back of the brake backing plate.

So....any ideas on what the cause may be and how or if I should start by taking the drum off? Should I hook the car up to my Expedition and drag it out hoping that it will free up the drum???

Thanks for the help!!
 

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Have you freed-off the adjuster on the backplate?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Stuart - hadn't thought of that! Will try that today and post the results. Geez, I need to get back into tinkering with the cars again now that the remodel is done......
 

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Dan

While you are under the car loosening off the adjuster, just give the sliding cylinder a tap with a piece of hard wood & a mallet to make sure it's (a) loose & (b) shifted all the way back to give more clearance. a careful squirt of Q20 /WD 40 or similar will help the cylinder slide if necessary.

Dragging the SS out is a really bad idea as the tow bar on your Expedition is at least a foot higher than the axle of the SS (which is where you were planning to attach your tow rope.....) this means that a portion of the pulling force is upwards where the large fuel tank & delicate rear valance *might* just be in the way.....

If the brakes are stuck, there's a good reason for it, rather fix the brakes before you go the brute force route. Slacking off the adjuster & ensuring that the cylinder slides should allow you to take off the drum, check carefully for signs of fluid leaks from the cylinder - if yes, then a rebuild is in order with new linings, if not then it may be that the car was stored with the adjusters up high and the linings have stuck to the drums through a bit of surface rust. Check that you have fluid in the reservoir before you go any further.

Once it's mobile & out in the street & assuming there is no traffic & the road ahead is clear in front of you, start the motor & let it warm up, the shut the motor off & select 1st gear, hold the clutch down & don't let it up, now start the motor in 1st gear - the car will hiccup along & then as the motor fires it'll start to move, once rolling prod the throttle on & off & on & off with the clutch still hard down. it may take a while, but the on-off-on-off action will pop the clutch loose, whereupon you can drive as normal.

Caution, because you have "direct drive" you need to remember that to effect a sudden stop you will need to kill the ignition - as with everything, take extreme caution, all the usual precautions and don't leave it standing so long next time !!

Ciao
Greig
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Success - thanks again Stuart on the adjuster reminder. The drum came off easily and with a little clean up of both the drum and the pads (carefully here) the wheel turns easily now. Needs new suspension straps I noticed.

Greg - the car is headed to a shop for the clutch. The driveline, well engine/tranny anyway, was rebuilt right before I acquired the car and the clutch was sticking even then and has since frozen up. I should have driven it more to break things in I guess. I drove around the neighborhood with the clutch pedal pressed and it never "broke free". I fiddled with the adjuster to see if I could get more throw, but no luck. Even thought it might be the rubbber on the mounter mounts being soft (the engine seems to move forward when the pedal is pushed).

Thanks again for the advice. I'm hoping to get the SS back on the road soon and post a few pictures of it in action.

Cheers....Dan
 
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