[161qv]

hi guys,
I seem to have a cooling problem with thr rear brake discs on my road car
any ideal or improve that won't cost too much ?

 

[Gubi]

The rear brakes should be more than adequate for street use. If the rears are really overheating you may have a dragging pad(s).

Have you inspected them? How old is the rear hose?

 

[161qv]

I have fitted S/Steel braided hose and the pads look good thing maybe exhaust
heating them up .what do you think is it possidle?

 

[fatdarryl]

If the pads aren't dragging, it couldnt hurt to make a heat shield for the exhaust, it does depend on your particular exhaust as to how hot it gets there i guess

 

[oz3litre]

I have fitted S/Steel braided hose and the pads look good thing maybe exhaust
heating them up .what do you think is it possidle?

It sounds strange that you would have that problem out where you live. I wouldn't have thought you would be using the brakes anywhere near enough to overheat them. I have never had it happen on any of my 75s; even in hot weather in the city or the hills. What are the symptoms? The easiest way to test whether the pads are dragging is to see if the car will roll down a slight slope like a driveway. If it doesn't move your pads are probably dragging. Try it before and after a drive.

 

[69alfa]

Could it be blockage in a hose ? Or is there a hose in a 75? I had that problem on my car (105) . Brakes were dragging ,changed the hose , it was plugged with crap . The rims got so hot the center cap on the passenger side melted a bit.

 

[fatdarryl]

yes there is a hose, and theres only 1, so a blockage / collapse would act on both of the rear brakes together

 

[jazig.k]

if all that checks out, look into jet hot coating the exhast back there inside and out [probably about $150~200? iv got a friend who does it, so i dont pay], stainless steel [better thermal properties but not cheap compared to mild steel], or heatwrap if the others are out of the budget.

i cant say iv ever had a heat problem with the rear brakes, even after some hard hill cruises [slaughted a ford BA XR6 turbo, when my engine was stock]. same cruise, i remember a holden vz ss ute got hot brakes and massive fade, at the first stop, his wheels were far to hot to touch!

 

[krazymaan]

Maybe your proportioning valve is bad, weak or just not any good any more. Your fronts take 80% of the abuse. Its odd that the rears would even be bad.

 

[oz3litre]

The proportioning valve on my grey car gave trouble and caused the rear brakes to lock. It resulted in the rear brakes not working at all. My mechanic replaced it when he tried a new hose and found that there was still no fluid coming out of the rear callipers. That could indeed be your problem. The valve is next to the master cylinder by the way.

 

[fatdarryl]

the simple way to check for a blockage would be to perform a bleed of the rears either with a mate or a pressure bleeder, you'll soon see if fluid is flowing freely back there, although i presume this was all well when the SS hose was fitted

 

[Typhoon90]

Drilled and slotted rotors, header wrap the pipe. All you'll ever need on a road car:

 

[161qv]

thanks guys,
I have a massive brake fade after around 30mins of driving pad "look" fine ?
I have valvoline heavy duty 3DOT fluid (all new) new seals in the front only
and new s/steel brake lines .
Typhoon 90,I am looking at that next I already have the heat tape but not fitted yet.

 

[oz3litre]

thanks guys,
I have a massive brake fade after around 30mins of driving pad "look" fine ?

That's not normal. There must be something going on. That would certainly happen if the brakes were binding. My exhaust pipe is at least 2" in diameter and in the same position as yours I would think and I have no brake fade at all. Can you smell burning pads when it is happening?

 

[161qv]

Well like like new discs are in order ,tuner out the discs are under size and heavy glazed
and new pads should fix it up .
What pads are the best for the job??

thanks