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But Mad North-Northwest
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Useful tip: after setting the rear pad clearances, leave the parking brake cable loose and pump the brakes a couple dozen times. Then adjust the cable to just take up the slack. This lets the self adjusters in the pistons do their job so the clearances are correct and the handbrake works in the right number of clicks.

I can't take credit for that one: I found it searching some other site a while back. But I tried it today and it does really seem to help in getting the parking brake to work properly first try.

Other stuff I've learned over the years doing this job:

-I've found it's easy to leave too much clearance. Basically what I do now is stick a .004" feeler gauge under each pad and crank down fairly snug on both adjusters until the gauges stay in place on their own. Then I tighten up the 17mm nut and pull the gauges out. As long as the wheel still spins freely after is the clearance should be good.

-It never hurts to do a quick bleed of each rear caliper after this job, and it may help.
 

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I never bother with feeler gauges, I just tighten the adjusters till the brakes drag then back them off slightly. Gives a good solid pedal and the e-brake operates on just a few clicks instead of ending up pointing at the roof!
 

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I adjust mine the same way, but haven't tried gubi's trick. My problem is the adjustment doesn't stay. I've rebuilt the calipers, new rotors and pads.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Discussion Starter #10
When you say the adjustment doesn’t stay, what do you mean?

Once you set them up properly you should not need to touch the adjustment screws again until the pads need replacing. If they don’t self adjust it’s possible you’re leaving too much clearance at the initial setup.

Try the tips I described above.
 

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When you say the adjustment doesn’t stay, what do you mean?

Once you set them up properly you should not need to touch the adjustment screws again until the pads need replacing. If they don’t self adjust it’s possible you’re leaving too much clearance at the initial setup.

Try the tips I described above.
I'm for sure gonna try those tips.

I'll adjust them, and they gradually go right back out of adjustment. The parkbrake travel increases with each application.....
 

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My first post, so hi to everyone.

I have a AR 75 1.6 IE '92 year.
After a few mounts left on the parking I have experienced sinking brake pedal and poor breaking performance.

As started from the top, I have changed master cylinder than rubber line on the front left wheel so as the metal one right on the wheel and get much better braking force.
The next step was getting air out of system.
On the front wheels I get new breaking fluid out from valves so as at the rear ones but on the left wheel there is fluid coming out only from valve on the out side and on the right (passenger) wheel side is inverse. Only inner (first to the gear box) valve getting fluid out.

Hand brake is working with decent force only at the end and right wheel is almost without breaking force.
I have decent brakes now but at the maximum breaking force there is some movement rear end of the car to the left side.
What to do to get fluid form the all valves on the rear calipers and how to adjust hand brake?
 

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Welcome!!

It's likely that the caliper that is exerting no force has a seized piston or two.

Have you adjusted the brake pad to rotor clearance using the adjusters pictured below?
 

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No because everything worked before as it should.
If I get hand brake on rear right wheel is that mean that booth clips are moving but there is no
fluid in that right part of caliper so right clip is not moving?
Thanks for explanation. I will try that as last step because I am working on the parking with limited capacities.
If the valve is blocked than there will be no fluid out but there will be pressure
inside the caliper?
I have cleaned space around handbrake actuator on the caliper and it feels better but I will do it again and check to be sure about symptoms.
May I just try to put away only that right part of caliper because there is no real service here?
They will shoot at me and the car if I show up.
 

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You have to get things to move in that one caliper.

Or, get a rebuilt one. Or rebuild it yourself. I've done that. Not fun!!!!
 

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Not fun at all!
So is it possible to put down without taking off axle only right part of caliper and lose clip?
How about unceasing clip from the side where comes pads or any other method while caliper is on the axis?
 

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svetoklik

Just checked breaking on the both rear wheels.
Hand break works on both wheels so as on the pedal, but on the left one there is slightly less breaking force.
Every four clips on the rear calipers moving so I am asking is it possible to adjust breaking force on the rear wheels by pads clearance or something other is messed up?
There is some delay on the pedal at the beginning of breaking which affect left rear wheel.
 

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Just to be tip for the valves on calipers.

I have removed valve an clean hole with peace of wire and WD40.
It worked with passed test for the brakes.

:nerd:
 

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I adjust mine the same way, but haven't tried gubi's trick. My problem is the adjustment doesn't stay. I've rebuilt the calipers, new rotors and pads.
I have the same thing, have you sorted it out?

On my car, outer adjusters go out in around 50 km.
I have swap pistons that work fine in inner part of the caliper and I get the same problem again with outer pads go back off. Not right away, but after 50 km I can wiggle outer pads with my fingers and hear them clicking in calipers and see a massive gap of 1 mm after 200 km.

I am thinking of remanufactured calipers and have found some brand REMY on ebay and they are for good price but I am afraid that I will get the same thing because how the guy who rebuild them knows will that self adjustment work properly in future when I start driving? Is there a way when they are on the bench to check that?
 

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I have the same thing, have you sorted it out?

On my car, outer adjusters go out in around 50 km.
I have swap pistons that work fine in inner part of the caliper and I get the same problem again with outer pads go back off. Not right away, but after 50 km I can wiggle outer pads with my fingers and hear them clicking in calipers and see a massive gap of 1 mm after 200 km.

I am thinking of remanufactured calipers and have found some brand REMY on ebay and they are for good price but I am afraid that I will get the same thing because how the guy who rebuild them knows will that self adjustment work properly in future when I start driving? Is there a way when they are on the bench to check that?

Odd that you should reply today. LOL. I just adjusted mine again today. Inners were fine. couldn't get a .001" feeler gauge between rotor and pad on those. Outers were loose, but nothing like what you're experiencing. .
 
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