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Discussion Starter #1
I've got the passenger side axle shaft out, it just slipped right out. Driver side not budging easily. It should come out easily enough, correct? Or am I missing something since it's the LSD side?

I read about rebuild of diff requiring measuring the lash and requiring special tools to make the necessary adjustments. I'm a real novice at this and have no idea what that even means. I think the seal is leaking, is it called the pinion seal? Can I replace it without issue with typicals tools and not throw off the other specs?
 

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I've got the passenger side axle shaft out, it just slipped right out. Driver side not budging easily. It should come out easily enough, correct?
No, not correct. Sometimes the bearing just sticks in the axle housing. People have reported using a wheel as an improvised slide hammer. Mount wheel, screw lug nuts just a few turns, yank wheel toward you to tap out the bearing. Make SURE the car is well supported so you don't knock it off its jack stands!

... the pinion seal? Can I replace it without issue with typical tools and not throw off the other specs?
Unless you put different gears into your existing housing, that complicated set-up procedure isn't an issue. When replacing the seal, you do need to re-tighten the nut on the pinion flange properly, do need the weird socket pictured below to get that nut off & on, ...., so yes, there are a few tricks, but it isn't as complicated as other operations on the differential.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jay, have the pinion nut tool already so good to go.

Axle completely off so now worries with knocking the car off stands. Did some pounding on it with a wood block but then began to wonder is it's being the LSD side meant it wasn't removable that way. Other's have used that method but I wasn't sure they had LSD diffs like I do. Sounds like I just need to be more persistent.

I assume then that removal of the axle tubes and the LSD unit would not complicate things any further as to the lash specs, etc.? What is the lash anyway? Still learning...
 

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If the diff is not making any unusual noises and is just leaking from the pinion seal, why are you removing the axles? Just remove pinion nut, remove driveshaft flange, pick out old seal, bang in new seal, put everything back on and correctly torque pinion nut and job done!
Pete
 

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but then began to wonder is it's being the LSD side
You're losing me when you refer to "the LSD side". Both sides are the same.

Sounds like I just need to be more persistent.
Yea. Pounding stuff apart tends to be hard. If you plan to disassemble the axle tubes from the center section, then just remove the tube with the axle still installed and push out the axle from the inside --> out using a piece of 2x4 and two threaded rods.

I assume then that removal of the axle tubes and the LSD unit would not complicate things any further as to the lash specs, etc.?
Right. As long as you re-assemble things exactly as they came apart, all will be good.

What is the lash anyway?
"Lash" is another term for the "play" between gears; how much clearance there is between the two gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If the diff is not making any unusual noises and is just leaking from the pinion seal, why are you removing the axles? Just remove pinion nut, remove driveshaft flange, pick out old seal, bang in new seal, put everything back on and correctly torque pinion nut and job done!
Pete
Also redoing the bearings as they are in need and seals there as well as worn out e brake shoes. So axles out and planning to remove tubes to clean and repaint. Also will be considering having the LSD unit rebuilt with RJ, I'm sure it's not functional given the miles.
 

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jonesdds:

I did that job a few months ago as part of a 4.56 --> 4.11 swap. An entire rear axle assembly was installed; you can't just drop the 4.11 ring and pinion into an exiting 4.56 housing without doing that complicated set-up procedure.

Like you, I detailed the axle tubes and replaced the seals while I had things apart. My axle tubes and dust plates were powder coated; I just used a rattle can to paint the plates that support the calipers. I didn't worry about worn-out disks in my limited slip - I figure I don't drive my Sprint in the snow all that often. The e-brake components that came with the 4.11 axle seemed OK, so I didn't disassemble that either.

Here are a few shots I took before and after the final assembly. No I didn't forget to install the differential unit; just kept it in a sealed bag until I was ready for it.

UCLA huh? You have to be loving life this season. Congrats on beating those Spoiled Children on Saturday. Next game is with my alma mater, though I don't have high hopes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very nice Jay! Thanks for sharing. What did you use to paint the tubes and such?

Yes, great victory, now if we could just beat Oregon and Stanford. We are a mixed household with wife from USC, younger son USC fan and older one at UCLA. The older one hopes to go to Stanford law next year, that's going to throw another team in the mix!
 

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What did you use to paint the tubes and such?
My axle tubes and dust plates were powder coated; I just used a rattle can to paint the plates that support the calipers.

Yes, great victory, now if we could just beat Oregon and Stanford.
I suspect UCLA will get by Stanford. Oregon will be another matter.
 

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Lash is typically referring to the fit of the pinion against the crown wheel and is set by a shim behind the race in the dif housing (left tube) to raise or lower the crown over the pinion gear. On LSD's it .002 in. Preload is how "tight" the bearings fit together. The pre load for the axle tube bearings is set by the shim behind the race in the right tube. The preload for the pinion bearings is set by the thickness of the shim behind the outer pinion bearing race and is set after the depth of the pinion to the crown wheel is decided by the shim behind the inner pinion bearing race. The amount of torque applied to the pinion nut does not set the pinion bearing preload.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
jonesdds:

I did that job a few months ago as part of a 4.56 --> 4.11 swap. An entire rear axle assembly was installed; you can't just drop the 4.11 ring and pinion into an exiting 4.56 housing without doing that complicated set-up procedure.

Like you, I detailed the axle tubes and replaced the seals while I had things apart. My axle tubes and dust plates were powder coated; I just used a rattle can to paint the plates that support the calipers. I didn't worry about worn-out disks in my limited slip - I figure I don't drive my Sprint in the snow all that often. The e-brake components that came with the 4.11 axle seemed OK, so I didn't disassemble that either.

Here are a few shots I took before and after the final assembly. No I didn't forget to install the differential unit; just kept it in a sealed bag until I was ready for it.

UCLA huh? You have to be loving life this season. Congrats on beating those Spoiled Children on Saturday. Next game is with my alma mater, though I don't have high hopes.
So I've got everything out as in you disassembled picture but with e brake stuff out as well. The seals in the tubes near the end will need replacing are those pressed into the tube or on the axle rods after the bearings and retainers are placed?

Such a disappointing UCLA loss and I was there in 90 degree heat to witness it, Ugh!
 

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The seals in the tubes near the end will need replacing are those pressed into the tube...?
Pressed into the axle tubes, yes. You can knock out the old ones by using a long rod or stick of wood inserted from the differential side. Position it behind the seal, tap the mass of the axle tube & stick on the ground, and the seal will come out. If you plan to powdercoat your tubes, don't install new seals until that is complete.

Such a disappointing UCLA loss and I was there in 90 degree heat to witness it, Ugh!
I'm not going to say a thing.
 
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