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Discussion Starter #1
My head gasket loses a little coolant near 4th cylinder on the manifold side.
Oil seems still ok.
Before tearing the whole thing apart i consider re torquing my cylinder head.
Maybe the bolts went loose a little over the years?
Any pros or cons?
(Of course i´d do it in the correct order and torque...)
 

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There is a chance it will help. Since won't cost anything and is not likely to hurt, I think it is worth a try.

If the cylinder head had been in place for some time/many miles, the best procedure is to remove one head nut at a time, clean and lube the threads & re-torque it. Then do the same for each nut - typically in the sequence advised in the shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Assumed one of the bolts is loose, isn´t it risky loosing and retightening the neighbour screw to full torque?
I´m a little afraid this could put tension to the head and in the worst case might crack it...

I thought about this order:
First tighten all screws to the correct torque without losening them
and after losening one after another, oiling and re torquing.

Are there any cons doing this with a cold engine?
 

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A dry nut will require more torque to move it. If any of yours will move with 65 ft-lb then they were not tight enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another thought:
When losening and retightening shouldn´t i do the recommended order in reverse?
Normal tightening starts from the inside, the outside screws are tightened last.
So losening and re bolting from outside to inside seems to make sense to me...
 

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I would stay with the recommended torque sequence.
 

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Assumed one of the bolts is loose, isn´t it risky loosing and retightening the neighbour screw to full torque?
I´m a little afraid this could put tension to the head and in the worst case might crack it...

I thought about this order:
First tighten all screws to the correct torque without losening them
and after losening one after another, oiling and re torquing.

Are there any cons doing this with a cold engine?
Loosening (and cleaning AND lubeing!) and tightening one nut after another is the only correct way. And do use the recommended tightening sequence as well.

Those people giving you that advice stand for own experience in hundreds of re-tightened heads.
 

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Richard Jemison
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re-torquing the head

Don`t be concerned with torquing causing problems. First drain the water below the level of the head surface to prevent leaks.
Unscrew and use grease on the threads, not oil.
Tighten one one at a time to 60 lbs, then go back and do a final torque to 70 lbft.

I also suggest you flush the engine and block (drain for the block is on the side under the exh manifold at the rear.
Then fill with water (only) and use a pack of Barr`s Leak (6 tablets in the pack) and drive it for two days. Drain and fill with antifreeze and water.

That will cure the leak for certain.
 

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Not knowing what engine the subject is talking about... wouldn't it be prudent to know that before you torque to 70 Ft-lbs on a 750 or even a 1600 engine? ..or is that a universal figure? I'm not so sure but who am I to ask.
 

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Good point. Most of the discussion on the ABB is about 2L motors and some of us in the performance crowd forget that the questions may be about a small motors. It is also a reminder to be specific when asking for advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It´s about a 1300.
It needs a little less than a 2,0l. 6,2-6,4 mkp cold (~62 NM / ~45 lbft).

(But the question initially was more about if re torquing makes sense anyway...)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What happened so far:
Decided to re torque the head at first without losening.
Drove one hour and...
Not a single sign of water at the former leak!!!

Have to watch this the next days...
 

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Timely topic, although it's been discussed before and I've read those too. My twin spark is leaking oil above the distributor and I want to do this too. Very soon too. Probably next weekend. Calguy - can I ask where you were leaking oil? Mine is above the lower distributor but a little rearward, on the block not the timing cover. I found it with the UV dye treatment.

I have two torque devices, one is my father's torque wrench which he always kept clean in a the styrofoam sleeve and one is a brand new digital device that you put in between your wrench and your socket. Any good way to test these before proceeding? The torque wrench is of good quality, Snap On, I believe, and has always been clean, but it is very old.

The slight disadvantage with the twin spark is the bolts are under the cam cover and I'll have to remove the cover too. So I don't want to try something like checking the torque first. I want to do the whole thing in one shot. New valve cover gaskets have to come from Europe so I want to be very careful and do it once.
 

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I use one of those digital devices to check calibration on my clickers. I don't really like using the digital torque gauge to tighten bolts as I find it harder to stop at the proper torque (it beeps, rather than clicks, and from testing I'm just not as repeatable with it.) YMMV.
 

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Oh, and Eric - you wouldn't happen to have a pdf higher quality of those pages would you? The jpg versions are quite grainy when sized up to 8 1/2x 11. I can see the sequence, no problem there, but I'd like to read the rest of the page.

Thanks,
 

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One more thing. How would you recommend cleaning the stud and nut before applying the grease? Would spraying carb-cleaner in a can be OK and wiping off with a rag, or just wiping them off real good be enough? Question is more for the stud. I'm pretty sure cleaning the nut this way is fine. Just not sure if the solvent leaking down the stud past the head is bad.
 

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OK to try, but I've never had any luck resealing a head gasket with just retorque the head nuts. It just gets slowly worse. And the seal break is almost always between #3 and #4 cylinders. Watch carefully for the oil getting a mud like mocha color (oft called milkshake). That's cooling water leaking into the oil. Very bad. I'd get home ASAP, and not too far as well.

Alfas notoriously have head leaks at this spot, almost always from overheating the engine (from a water leak?). That will nearly always warp the head. If so the head must be milled to make it flat again. Get a very good head gasket.

Robert
 

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Timely topic, although it's been discussed before and I've read those too. My twin spark is leaking oil above the distributor and I want to do this too. Very soon too. Probably next weekend. Calguy - can I ask where you were leaking oil? Mine is above the lower distributor but a little rearward, on the block not the timing cover. I found it with the UV dye treatment.

I have two torque devices, one is my father's torque wrench which he always kept clean in a the styrofoam sleeve and one is a brand new digital device that you put in between your wrench and your socket. Any good way to test these before proceeding? The torque wrench is of good quality, Snap On, I believe, and has always been clean, but it is very old.

The slight disadvantage with the twin spark is the bolts are under the cam cover and I'll have to remove the cover too. So I don't want to try something like checking the torque first. I want to do the whole thing in one shot. New valve cover gaskets have to come from Europe so I want to be very careful and do it once.
I had the same leak on mine and retorqueing the head as outlined above did the trick. Twinsparks only have two oilway with the little o-ring seals, one just above and behind the distributor and one on the opposite side above the dipstick.
 
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