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Discussion Starter #1
I've installed a 1750 engine in my 67 GTV that was running when removed last year. Moved the hoisting bracket and need to re-torque the head before I fire it up tonight. Question is, how should I do it. I re-torqued without removing and oiling the head nuts yesterday. the two pairs for the bracket position change were below torque, but the other nuts did not move, which might be an indication that they were over-torqued at some point. Should I remove each nut, oil and re-tighten, then go through the torquing sequence so all the nuts are torqued to a known setting, and if so, what is the potential problems if the head had been over-torqued? would it make the Head gasket more likely to blow if I re-torque all the nuts to a lesser value than they are currrently?

Thanks for all the help, with any luck the car starts tonight. had a pesky fuel leak I needed to deal with, didn't want my moment of glory to turn into the towering inferno. too cold to open the garage door (-5, brrrr)
Stan
 

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They stick like that. Cold, without coolant, remove one nut at a time. Examine it and the hardened washer beneath for pitting. Any pitting, either lap the hardened washer or replace, lap pitting on the nut mating surface, oil and re-install torquing to a little less than 55 Ft/lbs cold. Do all the nuts in the normal tightening sequence in this manner. Then re-torque again to 55 lbs cold. They all should move now. Add coolant. Warm the engine, (not hot), and let it sit 10 minutes or so to heat soak, and re-torque to 58 lbs. Repeat the warm re-torque @ 500 miles. Good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Gordon. I figured you would have the answer, I appreciate your willingnes to share.
Took 15 minutes to re-torque, cranked the starter and it fired right up! so what if I filled the house with exhaust smoke. now I need to get the spica adjusted, rear brakes and driveline installed, and finish re-upholstering the drivers seat. I'll be giving rides in a month!
Stan
 
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