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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Following another discussion else where I did my Fuel Door re-install today. First I installed the 2 rubber bumpers and the plastic surround on the opening. Then I protected the paint around the opening and completely protected the door with paper and tape.

I decided to use the original copper rivets that I had carefully removed. The repro rivets are Aluminium and are slightly longer while having the correct diameters. I expect they would work but I have no experience.

First I annealed the copper rivets by heating red hot with a propane torch and quenching directly into water. The rivets needed to have their bores opened and be re-rounded which I did by driving a suitable nail into the hole and tapping the outside backed on a vice with a tack hammer. I also used the nail and the tack hammer to tap the rivet straight while clamped between wood in a vice. I then checked the fit.

I then made a expanding die and epoxied it to a pair of narrow nosed vice grips. Standard vice grips where too wide.

I then placed the protected door in the protected opening and taped it in place. Next, working through the fuel tank opening (which is likely crucial), I placed the rivets through the body and door (they only can go one way) and the spring's short hook onto the body such that the long hook would attach to the door bracket from the top.

The vice grips with die were then used to easily expand the rivets. A loop of steel wire was used to easily pull the long hook into place.

The masking was all removed and the door is ready. So as they say in the UK. BOB'S YOUR UNCLE

Hope this helps someone.

Other ideas and discussion here Looking for Step-by-step help with 105 Super/GTV fuel flap door spring installation


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Good thing you did that task before installing the rubber surround for the fuel tank filler. I didn't....... thinking it would be doable after the rubber seal for the fuel filler neck was insalled (which was a real bear of a job to do as well). I'll have to McGiver up something that will do the same job but with the fuel filler and the rubber seal in situ.I spent an hour (a few months ago now) trying to pull that spring in position using a hooked type awl......but could not do so due to a lack of leverage and poor access.

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Today I was Attaching the Fuel Door to my 69 Giulia Super Biscione. So a couple of notes.

The fuel tank was in so i could not easily access the lower rivet area nor the bodies spring attachment hole. So the spring was hung in place before the door was positioned. I then riveted the upper rivet. Then, using 5 min epoxy, I glued the lower rivet head to the anvil off then special riveting vice grip. Once the glue got tacky I used the special vice grip to position the rivet, quickly set the rivet and easily broke it free from the rivet head. The original spring's door end angle was not as severe as the repros and was easily pulled with a wire into position.

Attached are dimensions of a copper rivet, for those not satisfied to use the Aluminum repro.



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