Alfa Romeo Forums banner

41 - 60 of 71 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
303 Posts
Pete. Can you expand a little bit on "modifying your doors" to get them to shut better with the rubber stripping in there? I'm going through this right now on my car and finding that at the bottom of the driver's side door it is just a touch to tight, and therefore pushing the bottom lip of the door out of alignment with the sill. Argh. Thanks.
You probably already tried this, but: Have you made sure the stainless steal trim over the sill (where the seal sits in), is mounted al the way inwards? Mine weren't, after fixing that the door shut a lot better with the new rubber.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,685 Posts
Pete. Can you expand a little bit on "modifying your doors" to get them to shut better with the rubber stripping in there? I'm going through this right now on my car and finding that at the bottom of the driver's side door it is just a touch to tight, and therefore pushing the bottom lip of the door out of alignment with the sill. Argh. Thanks.
After checking the door to shell clearance all the way around the door I found that the clearance was too tight along the bottom of the door, as you say pushing the bottom of the door out. As I was rebuilding the door at the time, I cut and shut the door so it was ~5mm's narrower (height wise) giving the necessary clearance (between the bottom of the door and sill/rocker).

This thread might help, but for some reason (potentially embarrassment) I did not take photos of me cutting and shutting the door frame: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1963-1977/176547-bottom-door-repair-7.html

Note the door gap looked perfect and I thought I had done this area perfectly until I trial fitted the door seal. In conclusion, even though I was really, really careful I assume I had installed the chassis rails and sill/rocker just a little bit too high (please note I made the chassis rails and sill/rocker panels as back when I was 20ish you could not buy quality reproductions).

Note the concave recessed curve shape around the door frame is designed to neatly align with the door seal. If this concave shape is compromised the seal will have no where to go and the door will be hard(er) to close.
Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,685 Posts
I've tried very hard to find the images/documents that 1750GT sent me so you can compare to your door gaps and so far have been unable to locate them ... sorry.

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Thanks for the helpful feed back, let me answer some questions with more questions :O

You probably already tried this, but: Have you made sure the stainless steal trim over the sill (where the seal sits in), is mounted al the way inwards? Mine weren't, after fixing that the door shut a lot better with the new rubber.
I wasn't sure where the stainless steel trim should sit, I put the trim over the 'step' on the outer sill, it seems like should go there. I ll post a picture later just to make sure I'm placing it in the right place, I didn't take the car apart myself

Inspect the closed door seal all the way around from inside the car to see if you have a pinch or tight area that is causing the door to be hard to close.

I had this and it was the bottom of the door (with thanks to 1750GT, who sent me sketches/dimensions of his car where the sill/rocker and door had never been replaced). I fixed this by modifying my door as I must have installed my sill/rocker just a wee bit too high ... but also if your door has had some work on the area the seal is supposed to align this can cause tight areas.
Pete
I did inspect the seal from inside the car, the seal looks even all the way round, just need a little help to smooth out in the front corner at the A pillar, the seal does feel too thick for the gap it has to fill, I'll post a pic later.

I thought of this but the door gap looks even, I did knock a couple of high spots from the bottom of the door, which we repair. We'll see what happens with the left door as were changed most of the frame
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
After having a second look to take pictures I noticed the bottom edge is a bit too tight, I'll try to lower the sill (possibly the middle sill, its just tacked on) a little more so the seal will have more space. I had to help lift the corner of the seal where it meets the A pillar the first time round for it to sit even, could be a problem too










Is the stainless steel trim in the right place?...I need to add more screws, just wanted to verify first, already put a few extra holes in the sill :S



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,685 Posts
Not sure if this photo will help or not, but here is a photo of my drivers door closed on the seal (although the SS trim has been removed ... sigh). I've also tried going through 1750GT's thread to find photos of his doors closed but failed ... frustrating!! I suggest you reach out to Rossano (1750GT) as he might be able to locate such a photo from an unmodified sill/rocker/chassis rails and door.

And yes you will notice, with my car, that the top radius of the inner chassis rail is not right as the shop that bent this piece up could not do that fold. Carpet will hide this :)
Pete
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,408 Posts
I missed this thread totally...as Pete mentioned, I made section templates at a series of zones around the door on the unmolested side of my car and used these to check the opposite side where I had replaced the sill. If you send me a PM with your email address....I can send you a PDF file that contains these.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
I missed this thread totally...as Pete mentioned, I made section templates at a series of zones around the door on the unmolested side of my car and used these to check the opposite side where I had replaced the sill. If you send me a PM with your email address....I can send you a PDF file that contains these.
Hi Rossano, thanks for the reply, I will PM you my email address.

Thanks for the help, I spent hours looking at your thread and pictures before I started cutting away on my Junior :)

I couldn't take proper references as both sills were really rusty and have had plates welded on
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
Hi Rossano,
I'm a few months behind Raising Junior on the door front, so I will PM you also with my email, if you would be so good to share them with me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,685 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
We're finally finishing up the right side floor and sill replacement. I managed to set the door gaps after lots of trials. After we were almost done trying I realised that I didn't have the rear jacking point in place, this would have helped a lot in aligning the sill!! We're planning to make a video of the left side floor and sill replacement as it the first time I'm doing this job hopefully we'll finish it in less time. I found some weber carbs right for the 1750 engine I have waiting for a rebuild/inspection. We fabricated all the bits in these pics













 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
The latest episode of my build. We covered replacing the sills and floor pans, however we didn't film all the measuring, assembling and removing panels as it would end up being an hour long!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
Thanks guys, we're working on the fun parts since we filmed this, the rear valance, trunk floor and rear quarter panels...soon they will be ready to be welded in place!
 
41 - 60 of 71 Posts
Top