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Anyone have one of these you’d let go? For a boy’s first car. 77 Spider.
![1605808]()
Radio delete plate
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Don you can make one pretty easy,
mossmotors.com
then get an emblem you like (I used the side pininfarina one off a 164)
My total cost was 18 dollars or so
Search results for: 'radio delete plate' | Moss Motors
Moss Motors is the worlds largest and oldest British parts supplier. We specialize in MG, TC, TD, TF, MGA, MGB, MGC, Midget, Triumph, TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR3B, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR250, Spitfire, Austin Healey, 100-4, 100-6, 3000, Sprite
mossmotors.com
then get an emblem you like (I used the side pininfarina one off a 164)
My total cost was 18 dollars or so
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10,327 Posts
Yeah. This car is not, nor will be, all that valuable. Just looking for a clean way to cover the hole. A trade here is fine with me, if we both get something we want.
The radio that came with the car actually works and sounds fine. The LCD display has died, and it's a cassette deck, so, well, there you go. JBL hidden remote amp with bluetooth is on the way. That'll give me access to my kind of music, which is apparently no one else's taste, and so never on any radio anywhere, ever.
The radio that came with the car actually works and sounds fine. The LCD display has died, and it's a cassette deck, so, well, there you go. JBL hidden remote amp with bluetooth is on the way. That'll give me access to my kind of music, which is apparently no one else's taste, and so never on any radio anywhere, ever.
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855 Posts
Hi can you share how you are going to set up your blue tooth sound system?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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10,327 Posts
Got it working today. Full details and pics this weekend.
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10,327 Posts
As usual, faced with what appeared to be a simple task, I used my standard tactic of “ready, fire, aim”.
The Blaupunkt fitted to this 76/77 115.02 had lost its display. It appeared to be fitted either at the factory, or more likely at the dealer, as the unit recommended for these cars. The radio design fits into the narrow time between purely shaft-mount and DIN1. Thus, very limited choices for a no-cut retrofit.
I use a Woodys Custom Shop in my 59 2000. Looks right, and with the addition of a Sound Ordnance, Sub sounds ok. Up to a point. So, I decided to see what the market offers in the way of hidden remote Bluetooth system.
After brief research, I ordered a JBL GTR-102. 50+50W two-channel remote amp with cable remote. I assumed I would stash the tiny remote in the glove box like with my Woody’s unit.
For reference, I spoke with a Crutchfield tech rep about the numerous complaints of the “Power Protect” triggering. She persisted in wanting to know what speakers I had as “they must be matched with the power output of the amp”. I finally gave up, and ordered a unit via Amazon Prime, which was fulfilled by.... Crutchfield. Mine cost me $130, with free freight. I just spotted one on EBay at $90.
Upon receipt and inspection I immediately noted that the remote is pretty big, and offers features beyond what can be controlled via a Bluetooth. The remote comes preattached to a fairly thick, and very long cable, suitable for mounting the amp in the trunk of your Eldorado and installing the remote in your dash.
With a bit of quick on-the-fly engineering, I mounted the amp vertically behind the console, using four folded aluminum tabs, two screwed to the trans tunnel, and two coming forward at the top to provide a screw-attachment for a new faceplate holding the remote.
I made the faceplate from 3/16” acrylic, with a bandsaw, handheld belt sander, drill press, and dremel cutoff tool. Painted black on the backside, leaving a nice shine in the front.
JBL recommends the use of 10AWG wire for power. Well, OK, why not? I picked up the full-time power from the relay forward of the firewall. I just remembered they advise a 60A fuse at the feed end, so I’ll need to fit that in. The amp has its own internal fuse, so we’ll assume the 60A fuse is to protect against a short to the chassis, and not an amp internal issue.
The dash-mounted remote offers an on-off button, or one can wire a remote trigger, which I did from the ignition key switched power. Thus, when I start the car, the amp comes on. I have tested it, and if you use the remote trigger-zone, the panel mounted remote on/off no longer works, once the car has started. I have not yet tested whether the panel control allows on/off with the ignition switch off.
The body of the amp offers a range of set-once controls, such as gain and tone equalizer. The amp can be configured for full range or sub use, among other esoteric uses.
Once paired with up to Eight Bluetooth sources, three simultaneously, having the GTR102 function in auto-on mode results in it waking up already paired, at least to my IPhone.
The system also supports hands-free telephone function, but I’ve not gotten there yet.
Took a total of about five hours to install, but whether my “skip-the-planning” style increases or decreases the time is open to debate.
I’ll get a finished-product picture shortly.
![1606113]()
![1606114]()
![1606115]()
![1606116]()
![1606117]()
The Blaupunkt fitted to this 76/77 115.02 had lost its display. It appeared to be fitted either at the factory, or more likely at the dealer, as the unit recommended for these cars. The radio design fits into the narrow time between purely shaft-mount and DIN1. Thus, very limited choices for a no-cut retrofit.
I use a Woodys Custom Shop in my 59 2000. Looks right, and with the addition of a Sound Ordnance, Sub sounds ok. Up to a point. So, I decided to see what the market offers in the way of hidden remote Bluetooth system.
After brief research, I ordered a JBL GTR-102. 50+50W two-channel remote amp with cable remote. I assumed I would stash the tiny remote in the glove box like with my Woody’s unit.
For reference, I spoke with a Crutchfield tech rep about the numerous complaints of the “Power Protect” triggering. She persisted in wanting to know what speakers I had as “they must be matched with the power output of the amp”. I finally gave up, and ordered a unit via Amazon Prime, which was fulfilled by.... Crutchfield. Mine cost me $130, with free freight. I just spotted one on EBay at $90.
Upon receipt and inspection I immediately noted that the remote is pretty big, and offers features beyond what can be controlled via a Bluetooth. The remote comes preattached to a fairly thick, and very long cable, suitable for mounting the amp in the trunk of your Eldorado and installing the remote in your dash.
With a bit of quick on-the-fly engineering, I mounted the amp vertically behind the console, using four folded aluminum tabs, two screwed to the trans tunnel, and two coming forward at the top to provide a screw-attachment for a new faceplate holding the remote.
I made the faceplate from 3/16” acrylic, with a bandsaw, handheld belt sander, drill press, and dremel cutoff tool. Painted black on the backside, leaving a nice shine in the front.
JBL recommends the use of 10AWG wire for power. Well, OK, why not? I picked up the full-time power from the relay forward of the firewall. I just remembered they advise a 60A fuse at the feed end, so I’ll need to fit that in. The amp has its own internal fuse, so we’ll assume the 60A fuse is to protect against a short to the chassis, and not an amp internal issue.
The dash-mounted remote offers an on-off button, or one can wire a remote trigger, which I did from the ignition key switched power. Thus, when I start the car, the amp comes on. I have tested it, and if you use the remote trigger-zone, the panel mounted remote on/off no longer works, once the car has started. I have not yet tested whether the panel control allows on/off with the ignition switch off.
The body of the amp offers a range of set-once controls, such as gain and tone equalizer. The amp can be configured for full range or sub use, among other esoteric uses.
Once paired with up to Eight Bluetooth sources, three simultaneously, having the GTR102 function in auto-on mode results in it waking up already paired, at least to my IPhone.
The system also supports hands-free telephone function, but I’ve not gotten there yet.
Took a total of about five hours to install, but whether my “skip-the-planning” style increases or decreases the time is open to debate.
I’ll get a finished-product picture shortly.
Joined
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10,327 Posts
Worked ok.
I know the plate is pretty basic, but apparently so is the original delete plate. If I get reeeaaallly bored, I can get a local engraver to enscribe a logo or something.
Here’s a pic of everything back together, and the remote on/off does work with the car “off”. Nice touch.
There’s other goodies in the amp I’ve not yet absorbed. It’ll take two pairs of left/right RCA jacks, like maybe I’ll find an 8-track somewhere and mount it under the glove box. Plus the aforementioned hands free phone. There’s some sort of signal filter to clean up the sound. Definitely haven’t figured that out.
I coiled up the antenna cable and secured it behind the console. No more need for that, considering any smart phone can stream radio.
Even using 1977 speakers, this think kicks!
![1606131]()
![1606132]()
I know the plate is pretty basic, but apparently so is the original delete plate. If I get reeeaaallly bored, I can get a local engraver to enscribe a logo or something.
Here’s a pic of everything back together, and the remote on/off does work with the car “off”. Nice touch.
There’s other goodies in the amp I’ve not yet absorbed. It’ll take two pairs of left/right RCA jacks, like maybe I’ll find an 8-track somewhere and mount it under the glove box. Plus the aforementioned hands free phone. There’s some sort of signal filter to clean up the sound. Definitely haven’t figured that out.
I coiled up the antenna cable and secured it behind the console. No more need for that, considering any smart phone can stream radio.
Even using 1977 speakers, this think kicks!
Joined
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10,327 Posts
Bob,
My two speakers are one in each front, side kick panel. I bought the car from the son of the original owner, who said his aging father stopped driving 20 years ago. I’ve not removed the side panels to confirm, but based upon going throughout the car, it’s very much as-delivered.
To be blunt, I never would have guessed simply adding a high quality power amp would make such good, and loud, music through 1977 dealer-installed speakers.
My two speakers are one in each front, side kick panel. I bought the car from the son of the original owner, who said his aging father stopped driving 20 years ago. I’ve not removed the side panels to confirm, but based upon going throughout the car, it’s very much as-delivered.
To be blunt, I never would have guessed simply adding a high quality power amp would make such good, and loud, music through 1977 dealer-installed speakers.
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5,942 Posts
on my car, those kick panels are steel, which would need a hole cut in them, and corresponding hole cut into the plastic covers that are on those panels -- these are the outboard panels right next to your feet, correct (right foot for passenger, left foot for driver)?
On my 78, the speakers were also mounted in the outboard kick panels. It looks like the steel was pre cut and finished at the factory, as there is also shaped steel behind the holes.
I don't believe this is where the speakers are originally supposed to go but this is where they were mounted on my '78 when I got it. However, I am pretty sure they are original speakers. Since This photo I have replaced the door panels and have yet to reinstall the speakers. If I am not mistaken (and I may be) radios were a dealership installed option so there may be some variance from dealer to dealer.
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