[Dam]

Hi all,

recently i had my gt's radiator remanufactured. Otherwise, for now i don't understand why, but the radiator is taller than the previous radiator, so it isn't possible to install it. Somebody can give me the radiator dimension? I need to know the high of the radiator surface, beetween the upper and lower frames and the high of the frames. I attached some picture. Thanks in advance.

 

[Dam]

Nobody can help me?

 

[Alfajay]

I measured my '66 Sprint GT radiator and got ~313 mm between the upper and lower tanks (while it looks like your's is 329 mm). I couldn't really get my camera in there to take a good photo - the radiator is in the car, not on the bench. So yes, it looks like whoever re-cored your radiator made it ~16 mm too tall.

 

[180OUT]

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago when I had my Super's radiator re-cored. The top tank was about 1/4th too tall, preventing the hood latch to lock the hood. The actual problem is that the radiator filler neck was now just a bit too tall. My radiator guy was going to reduce the height of the filler (no charge) but then I had a better idea. I discovered that 70's spiders had a different filler configuration which put the neck well below the hood line. My friend Bob had a dead period spider radiator which measured the same as my Super's radiator. Jerry, my radiator guy swapped the top tanks and trimmed the spider filler a little to make it all look more factory.

The important factoid is that it appears that the critical basic dimensions of 105 era radiators are the same which allows you to swap tanks like I did.

If you can't install your radiator I presume that the problem is height and, if it is, you may find that the interference is at the height of the filler neck. If that's the case, reducing height of the filler neck may give you the extra clearance you need. Somewhere I have a photo of the latch just missing engagement by about 1/8th to 1/4th inch. Why don't you do some further examination so you can see where the actual interference is?

 

[Dam]

I measured my '66 Sprint GT radiator and got ~313 mm between the upper and lower tanks (while it looks like your's is 329 mm). I couldn't really get my camera in there to take a good photo - the radiator is in the car, not on the bench. So yes, it looks like whoever re-cored your radiator made it ~16 mm too tall.

I measured my '66 Sprint GT radiator and got ~313 mm between the upper and lower tanks (while it looks like your's is 329 mm). I couldn't really get my camera in there to take a good photo - the radiator is in the car, not on the bench. So yes, it looks like whoever re-cored your radiator made it ~16 mm too tall.

Thanks for answering. I have a 72 GT Junior and if i remember well our radiator are different. Otherwise i can confirm that my radiator is taller because i can't install it.

 

[Dam]

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago when I had my Super's radiator re-cored. The top tank was about 1/4th too tall, preventing the hood latch to lock the hood. The actual problem is that the radiator filler neck was now just a bit too tall. My radiator guy was going to reduce the height of the filler (no charge) but then I had a better idea. I discovered that 70's spiders had a different filler configuration which put the neck well below the hood line. My friend Bob had a dead period spider radiator which measured the same as my Super's radiator. Jerry, my radiator guy swapped the top tanks and trimmed the spider filler a little to make it all look more factory.

The important factoid is that it appears that the critical basic dimensions of 105 era radiators are the same which allows you to swap tanks like I did.

If you can't install your radiator I presume that the problem is height and, if it is, you may find that the interference is at the height of the filler neck. If that's the case, reducing height of the filler neck may give you the extra clearance you need. Somewhere I have a photo of the latch just missing engagement by about 1/8th to 1/4th inch. Why don't you do some further examination so you can see where the actual interference is?

Hi, thanks for answering. Yes, i re-cored my radiator, but now it is taller than the previous one. The top, the lower and the side frames are the same parts. Dismounted from the older radiator core and mounted to the new core. I can't install the radiator because the hole for the two screws are out of axis. Maybe the new radiator is 6/8mm taller, but I would have liked to know the dimensions of an original radiator.

 

[180OUT]

Does your radiator have 2 or 4 mounting points? My shop manual show 4 flange mounts. the top two being the more common through bolts w/ thick rubber washers. My at-a-distance assessment suggests that your basic problem is with mounting points rather than actual height since my manual shows you filler neck is positioned to allow the hood to close. If you had the work done by a local radiator shop repositioning the flanges is a relatively small job, although it would be best if they had your car so they can make sure everything aligns. Talk to your radiator shop and see what they suggest.

 

[Dam]

Does your radiator have 2 or 4 mounting points? My shop manual show 4 flange mounts. the top two being the more common through bolts w/ thick rubber washers. My at-a-distance assessment suggests that your basic problem is with mounting points rather than actual height since my manual shows you filler neck is positioned to allow the hood to close. If you had the work done by a local radiator shop repositioning the flanges is a relatively small job, although it would be best if they had your car so they can make sure everything aligns. Talk to your radiator shop and see what they suggest.

I have the two mounting flange radiator, and yes, they are off axis, so i can't screw in the two bolts. I'll talk to my radiator shop.

 

[180OUT]

If you just have the two upper flanges then the radiator shop should be able to fix it without much trouble---this is something they do a lot with recored radiators. My guy didn't complain at all about doing some extra fettling to make mine fit. You might even be able to measure carefully and then just have the shop move the flanges to fit, although it would be a lot easier if they had your car there to look at. Good luck and keep us posted. Oh, yeah. Have you fitted the radiator to make sure you can actually close the hood without any clearance problems?

 

[Alfajay]

I have the two mounting flange radiator, and yes, they are off axis, so i can't screw in the two bolts. I'll talk to my radiator shop.

Why can't you just seat the radiator in its lower saddle and measure the distance between the centers of the mounting holes and the threaded holes in the body? That dimension (10 - 15 mm I'm guessing) will be the amount that needs to come out of that new core.

 

[Sketchl]

Here's the correct radiator dims for a 1966 105 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce, with additional tabs for electric fan:

 

[Dam]

Why can't you just seat the radiator in its lower saddle and measure the distance between the centers of the mounting holes and the threaded holes in the body? That dimension (10 - 15 mm I'm guessing) will be the amount that needs to come out of that new core.

Thanks for answering. I already did, and the height difference seams to be 8mm. I find all that strange, because the radiator shop man show me the catalogue where he takes the radiator core. The core measure on catalogue is 325mm. So, he dont mesure anything, the measure core is on the catalogue for every car model. So i dont understand why i cant install it. Maybe some previous owner had a crash and rebuild the car front?

 

[Dam]

Here's the correct radiator dims for a 1966 105 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce, with additional tabs for electric fan:

View attachment 1650813

Thansk for answering. The drawing is really interesting. Unfortunately i have the late radiator, with only the mounting bolts. Thanks.