[TerryJ]

Working on the project from hell. Replacing the condenser on my 1973 GtV6 and putting a new radiator in. Finally got the condenser but potting in the radiator in encountered a un forseen problem. I have pulled the radiator out before and normally it is a piece of cake. Under normal circumstances you just put the bolt tha is centered on top of the radiator in and that is it. In my case the bolt screws into a nut that is tack welded in the radiator support frame broke loose loose so I cannot tighten the bolt. Any ideas?

 

[tomhenneka]

The nut is supposed to move around in the support, but it is not supposed to be able to rotate.

 

[alfaloco]

Are you sure the nut is welded in? I seem to recall it is a captive cage nut, that pops into a hole and is retained by the metal "cage" around it. Do you mean the sheet metal piece itself broke loose?

 

[TerryJ]

Working on the project from hell. Replacing the condenser on my 1973 GtV6 and putting a new radiator in. Finally got the condenser but potting in the radiator in encountered a un forseen problem. I have pulled the radiator out before and normally it is a piece of cake. Under normal circumstances you just put the bolt tha is centered on top of the radiator in and that is it. In my case the bolt screws into a nut that is tack welded in the radiator support frame broke loose loose so I cannot tighten the bolt. Any ideas?

Does anyone know the thread size of the bolt that secured the radiator to the cross member. I thought it is M8 1.25. Can any one verify that?

The nut is supposed to move around in the support, but it is not supposed to be able to rotate.

interesting. I assumed it was tack welded but what you ar saying makes sense. Do you know the thread size of the bolt. The one for my car got lost ( the rad came out of the car in November but then it got too cold to work in the car)). The bolt I am using is out of a junker at APE. I believe the thread is M8 1.25. Would you know if that is correct?

 

[TerryJ]

Are you sure the nut is welded in? I seem to recall it is a captive cage nut, that pops into a hole and is retained by the metal "cage" around it. Do you mean the sheet metal piece itself broke loose?

View attachment 1745305

I don’t see any evidence that it is a captive cage nut but it appears that it is a floating nut that isn’t not supposed to rotate. I wonder if the bolt I am using which is off a wreaked GTV6 is a different thread than the nut it is threading into. The bolt from the wreaked GTV6 is a M8 1.25

 

[alfaloco]

I'm sorry Terry, I can't confirm the thread on that bolt. But what you describe IS a cage nut, so if the M8 goes in without binding, there you have it. If the bolt off the wrecked car has a cone shaped end, with big washers, then you have the correct radiator bolt.

 

[mcneon]

8 x 1.25. Glad you made me look - mine was loose.

 

[TerryJ]

I'm sorry Terry, I can't confirm the thread on that bolt. But what you describe IS a cage nut, so if the M8 goes in without binding, there you have it. If the bolt off the wrecked car has a cone shaped end, with big washers, then you have the correct radiator bolt.

It appears that it is the correct bolt so it maybe the thread is damaged because it is binding . I may get a die and fresh the threads

 

[TerryJ]

Finally got everything thing sorted out as far as the radiator. It turns out the screw from the wrecked gtv6 had thread that was a bit buggered up and when try ing to screw it in had damaged the nut. I got a M8 1.25 die and tap. I put the screw thru the die and used the tap thru the nut. Everything now works and the radiator is now in!