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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
The original wiring beneath was quite good. I made a few repairs and spent plenty of time cleaning the ends which would remain exposed. I added some beefier grounds in a couple places, and for the headlights I repurposed a section of harvested Alfa 164 wiring complete with relays, block connectors and mounting bracket which I modified to fit the fender. Fused relays will take place of originals shown. I made a fiber rubber gasket for the mounting bracket to prevent it from damaging the paint...details matter!

Last photo shows all of the engine compartment harnesses draped over the fender for easy repair access. Lots to take care of...
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
...but eventually it starts to come together. Lots of time here and you need to keep track of where each wire grouping is supposed to exit the harness. All the harnesses are freshened now. I even found a couple of NOS junction boxes and covers for a finishing touch. The Jetronic and passenger side harnesses will hang out in this box for a bit.

Harness mounting wrap ties were sourced to replace the broken originals.

Also, barely visible (and installed without photos, oops) - is the rebuilt Milano steering rack. It's a late version with the larger, stronger hollow main shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Firewall gets new bits like grommets, sourced from Highwood as these don't seem to be available domestically. New heater hose feed and returns. Tight fit on the grommet...and I managed to break my heater valve in the process. I popped in a spare which looked to be NOS, so hopefully good to go there! Also removed the rest of the redundant fittings from the removed Tropic Aire.

Rebuilt the wiper motor (wow, what a difference!) and dove into the re-plated bits for reassembly of the rest of the junction center.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Back to the motor for a bit.

I had a couple of sets of Bosch original fuel injectors serviced (Fuel Injector Connection in Georgia does great work) to replace the aftermarket ones that were previously installed. They grouped the best set of 6 for me separately for this build. New cup clamps, replated anchors and bolts. Replated roma blok clamps for the intake runner couplers add a nice pop. Found a couple of NOS sending units, one for the gauge, and another that will be wired into the warning light.

NOS SZ / ES30 / 75 Motronic gear reduction starter with some heat wrap (it will get a heat shield too), and NOS motor mounts. The starter is a lot lighter than the original direct drive one. Also popped in a new front Giubo and tail housing mount, much easier to do when out of the car.

Last photo shows the (mostly) dressed engine almost ready for installation! Thermostat housing now updated with the blanking plug for the timing retard sensor.
 

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You do like that bright shiny plated hardware, Rob! Looks great. I thought I spotted a Milano rack, and the new type Centerline tensioner.
On the wiper motor, did you basically just clean it up and lube the bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
...On the wiper motor, did you basically just clean it up and lube the bushings?
Bushings on the arms/rack were OK. The motor and gearbox had dried up ancient grease, basically wax. Found some modern synthetic grease safe for plastics and packed that back in. The motor turns much more easily and cranks the racks more quickly. Touch of plastic grease on the rack connection points and good to go. This car won't see much rain hopefully but in case I do, at least I know it'll work well enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Next was throttle pedal and column to wrap up the firewall items.

Throttle pedal got a new firewall grommet, and the mounting bushings (same as 4 cylinder). Silicone grease and heat allowed me to install the multi piece accelerator pedal grommet without damaging it.

I decided to convert the entire steering system to Milano parts. The GTV6 column and connector will not mate with a Milano steering rack, and I did not want to cut and weld a column circuit with GTV6 upper and Milano lower to accommodate the swap on this car. So, I sourced the wiring, switch gear, column with U joint and locking rod, etc. for a complete swap from a parts Milano. I was able to modify the Milano firewall seal and bracket to work on the GTV6. Wiring later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
I was going to convert to a single large type fan from SPAL, but with the thicker aluminum radiator there was not enough room to put a sufficiently sized single puller fan on the engine compartment side because of the behind-radiator crossmember. So, I rebuilt a pair of GTV6 core fans and refinished the shrouds.
The original paddle fans actually move a lot of air when working properly, but are not very durable units and the oil bushings tend to dry out. The fan blades are an older design so are noisier than modern types but these originals move more air than a cheap eBay single. I may revisit this later and do have some modern fans, but these are working fine for now. I actually like the way the yellow fans turned out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
With the engine in, time to install the new parts and hook up the wiring. I opted to use some heavy duty wrapped heater hose for the hose that would get exhaust heat exposure, and long life rubber hose elsewhere. The cloth wrap is stiffer than regular hose and more difficult to work with. It was left over from Dad's 101 Giulia restoration, real nice looking. I added a stay clamp for the coolant bottle return hose at the hood latch, perfect placement. New clamps and such, and got to use nice plated fasteners everywhere.

A heat gun is very helpful when reinstalling the wiring harnesses, especially at the injector harness.
 

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Why not use this dual fan and shroud setup from Spal? I really like the shrouding.
I got this for my GTV6 resto project. I am hoping to resurrect the car's A/C system (PO's had the belt off for years if not decades). So I wanted to maximize the efficiency of the cooling fan setup.

1675147
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
After install
Why not use this dual fan and shroud setup from Spal? I really like the shrouding.
I got this for my GTV6 resto project. I am hoping to resurrect the car's A/C system (PO's had the belt off for years if not decades). So I wanted to maximize the efficiency of the cooling fan setup.
Tom,
That SPAL setup was on my list. I agree, and the shrouding is nice. However, I wasn't confident it was going to fit at the bottom where the radiator sits at the crossmember. And, I had a couple of sets of GTV6 fans around. I know those SPAL fans fit right in on a stock radiator and are supposed to cool well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
With the engine bolted down, time to put in the oil (Mag1 10w30 was chosen for break in, with a BIG filter). Cams you can see have break in paste on the lobes. I used a fabricated tool in my cordless drill to prime the oil pump and fill the galleries before installing the distributor. One end chucks into the drill, and the other end is splined like the oil pump mate gear for the distributor.
Motor mount heat shields reinstalled, starter heat shield and SZ exhaust headers mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
...And she lives!




After such a long project in various garages and shops with no proper cleaning, the car badly need a bath. So, full exterior wash, clay bar and some sealant. Looks good even in fluorescent lighting - but much better in natural light.
 

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What a terrific account of a major project, Rob! You enjoy the details too, I can tell (as do I). As for the cooling fans, when I rebuilt Mike's a couple of years ago, I drilled very small oil holes in the back of the motor housing, above and behind the sintered bushings. Just big enough for a 3-in-1 oil spout. Put a dab of silicone on them to seal them. The front bushings are accessible with a long curved oil spout, like what service techs use on appliances. But you're right, the stock fans move mucho CFM when in good condition.
I'm taking your lead on the insulation wrap for the motor mounts on my Spider, too. New Spruell HD mounts going in, and I'll wrap them both sides. I don't want to do that job again in another 5 years, frankly.
That 3 liter sounds nice and smooth on startup, too. Did you go back with OEM S cams, by chance?
And whoever does your hardware plating, does a fantastic job. I presume that's zinc or nickel on the long bolts/nuts.

Hats off to ya! And Graham too.
 
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Wow, you are certainly showing the way on a super sanitary build. Beautiful work, and attention to detail.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Thanks, guys. Lots of work indeed.

More progress shots.

New taillight gaskets from UK, fit nicely. Took the chance to clean all the parts up again since I had been running with no or bad gaskets.

Wrapped up the wiring for the headlight relays...

...And moved on to the column wiring. I had harness leads and plugs from the Milano donor parts (thanks, Steve!) and wanted to use all the plugs for the GTV6 fusebox. Modified my original ignition switch to fit properly, but may go to a late illuminated Milano style ignition switch later. Everything turned out nicely but took at bit of work on tracing and testing. The Milano column was fitted after I finished with all the testing and harness wrapping and tucking. I used a factory Milano steering wheel hub with the original wheel removed, and I drilled and tapped a Momo hub pattern into it. This way have Milano 2-stalk operation at the column, functioning horn, and collapsible wheel hub. The hub turned out alright but I found an old collapsible Momo that I'll probably install since it has a nice shroud piece for it to block the small gap between the wheel and column opening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Next was: reinstall horn, grillework, and lamps.

Parked next to younger but bigger brother Giulia. More break in miles went well.

Then, onto the hood pad. I modified the pad for my Lexan center hood panel and installed. 24V stablemate looks on. Reference pic for the plastic rivets used.
 

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