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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Probably about time to start my own thread on this...

I bought this GTV6 in heavy project form from XRAY in December 2012. His thread covered first part of build here: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfetta-gtv6-1972-1986/186672-xrays-1986-gtv6.html

I picked it up around page 20 of the build and continued on that thread...I will finish up the car's build here.

Most recent little project I did on the car was to finish the taillights. I modified GTV6 housings to fit Alfetta lenses to retain dual brake light bulbs. Stainless screws and black painted surrounds finished off the look. I really like the all-red look.

Next up is pulling the heads...AGAIN! Another built set going on w/ RJR street cams. I also will be removing that brand new dual DTM tip muffler. Does anyone have an interest in it? I only need the over-axle pipe from a stock GTV6 muffler to build my next version.


Hopefully it will make the AROC 2014 convention with Mostro and BestioneAzurro. Oh, and this one is nicknamed Meatball.
 

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i love the look, especially the smooth rear valence. early 80's i put gtv6 taillights in my alfetta. times change, i like yours better now
 

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AFT you started your own build thread little brother! Lookin goooooood, but would look better with amber lenses...trust me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Time for an update. First of all the Detroit Convention was a lot of fun. Unfortunately this car wasn't ready.

After the convention, local-to-us Alfa master Dean Russell paid us a visit and delivered some worked 3.0 heads. Heads ver. 2.0.

I removed the heads that XRAY had built and am going to replace with the ones that have been checked over by Dean. I removed the honed/enlarged runners and installed cleaned up stock size. I used a scope and flashlight and found that the stock ones mated better (almost perfect) to my heads and I had to do minimal gasket/phenolic spacer matching. The Heads ver. 2.0 have street prep and house RJR cams. I am also ditching the 3.0 cast iron manifolds (even though they're pretty). Instead I will be installing some NOS SZ / ES30 exhaust headers (thanks, Performatek!). Will run the Centerline Magnaflow front section.

Also changed out the black leather seats for pinstripe cloth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
More pics.

Some other pics.

Oh - for the SZ manifolds, the steering damper needed to come out to make room. I also fabricated some heat shields for the motor mounts and steering rack. Should help.

In order to pull heads the brake booster must be removed. You can reach all 4 mounting bolts for the booster without removing anything from the dash or the dash itself. I did remove the steering column shroud.

Stay tuned for reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
back on the road

Rebuilt heads installed. 3.0 Reinz gaskets were ALMOST perfect, had to trim one stud hole to get it just right. Luckily fire rings and dowels were right on.

New timing belt, oil pressure sender, and other bits. Yes, it is possible to do a timing belt on a fully dressed motor with radiator in place.

SZ headers fit very nicely. The heat shields will really help out the steering rack and motor mounts. I used a catalytic converter heat shield from a modern car (Chevy Cobalt) to fabricate my heat shields. Triple layer coated aluminum. Very easy to modfiy. The headers bolt right up to the Magnaflow Centerline front section without modification. In a perfect world the front pipes would be about 1.5 inches shorter and would still clear the underside but it's OK for now if careful with ground clearance.

For initial startup, I had to make sure that cooling system and all ancillaries were in place in order to properly break in new RJR cams/tappets. Car started right up and was let to run at 2000 rpm for about 20 minutes without a shutdown. Temp was perfect, no noises! Great!

After that, final checks were made and a road test took place. After about 50 road miles to seat everything I had a liberty moment of hard acceleration. These RJR cams HAUL from low RPMs. I mean, HAUL. The engine feels as if it is breathing more deeply than before and that was with brand new 164S /QV cams. Really drives the point home that a properly built and indexed set of cams on a carefully built set of heads really does make a difference. The SZ headers probably don't hurt either, but those would seem to offer an advantage in the higher RPM range. The car comes off idle like a mad SOB now...
 

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Great job RS. Glad to see you got it running again. Hearing how it's running has me pumped to get mine together.
 

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After that, final checks were made and a road test took place. After about 50 road miles to seat everything I had a liberty moment of hard acceleration. These RJR cams HAUL from low RPMs. I mean, HAUL. The engine feels as if it is breathing more deeply than before and that was with brand new 164S /QV cams. Really drives the point home that a properly built and indexed set of cams on a carefully built set of heads really does make a difference. The SZ headers probably don't hurt either, but those would seem to offer an advantage in the higher RPM range. The car comes off idle like a mad SOB now...
So, do you like them?
 

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Rs.... Very nice! Very nice indeed.. Keep em' coming....
 

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mmmm love the look of the car too...great red and black contrast throughout, especially the blackened wheels. Are the front fenders removed also or blackened? Why not blacken the exhaust tips too to complete the look?

I am curious on something however since I am into tyre tread patterns ...the tyres on your car have a tread pattern like the Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres I have on one of my modern cars. This tyre is "the" rain tyre because of this tread pattern and a good all round tyre. However for dry driving handling in my opinion is better using something like a Goodyear F1 asymetric tread design. Depends what type of driving one does and when I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mmmm love the look of the car too...great red and black contrast throughout, especially the blackened wheels. Are the front fenders removed also or blackened? Why not blacken the exhaust tips too to complete the look?

I am curious on something however since I am into tyre tread patterns ...the tyres on your car have a tread pattern like the Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres I have on one of my modern cars. This tyre is "the" rain tyre because of this tread pattern and a good all round tyre. However for dry driving handling in my opinion is better using something like a Goodyear F1 asymetric tread design. Depends what type of driving one does and when I suppose.
Thanks. What do you mean by front fenders?

The exhaust is far from finished, and it seems you and I have similar taste. THere is a pair of NOS Ansa Marmitte black tips on the shelf destined for this car...

With regard to tires, the ones on car are old and no good. They're rollers until the car is done. They are 16" wheels so they will likely get the Toyo R1R rubber, available in the right size for this car.

Yes - Momo steering wheel from an ES30 / SZ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rs.... Very nice! Very nice indeed.. Keep em' coming....
Thanks Rob - been a lot of work.

... video clips...
Hey how about you come up some time and record those clips! Maybe if I get the camera mount out I could take some... It sounds awesome though. Sound even better when I get the rear exhaust sorted :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ES30 / SZ headers vs the 3.0 manifolds

The manifolds looked quite nice but the SZ headers seem to be a worthwhile improvement. Didn't measure the fluid capacity or primary length but I did take a few quick other measurements.

3.0 Verde exhaust manifolds (part number 195.46.09.702.00 passenger, 195.46.09.703.00 driver)

Primary ID: 29.4 mm at smallest (casting boss for bolt), 36.3 mm at widest
Collector ID: 40.4 mm

ES30 / SZ exhaust manifolds (60551808 passenger, 60564451 driver)

Primary ID: 40.4 mm
Collector ID: 52.0 mm


More than the numbers: it's fairly obvious that the general collector area is much larger in the ES30 manifold. And though it's hard to tell in the photo, the iron manifold necks way down at the collector point.

The most fun really is the sound. The car emits a much "snappier" sound with more distinct firing noises. The original iron units have a more muted sound with less distinct pulses. Anyway, it's difficult to make these motors sound anything other than great.
 

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no doubt they are better, at least as much better as difference between cast 2.5 to cast 3.0. Save me those ceramic coated headers for a rainy 'buy-back' day!

GO pro the car!
 

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Rob,

What material/where did you go for the black gaskets for the Alfetta individual taillights?

Moisture is always the enemy!

Looks great BTW!

Thanks for any additional info!!

Ron/Renaldo
 
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