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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, while testing the alternator on my son's GTV 6, I noticed some antifreeze drops and tracing them down, I found the water pump pulley has a slight wobble and the seal's weeping. So now we got a water pump/timing belt/tensioner job in our near future. I had heard a bit of a whine lately with a warm engine, so now I know from whence it whineth.

Since this will be our first rodeo with the V6 timing belt, if anyone has any bits of wisdom to throw our way we'd be glad to listen. I've read a lot from Alfisto Steve over on the 164 forum, and nothing about the job concerns me since I've been wrenching for decades, but I'm still appreciative of any tips. We're going to install the new Centerline tensioner with the adjustment stud, a new Dayco belt, and new water pump. The thermostat was new about three years back. All hoses were replaced back when we first worked the car over in 2015 -2016. The radiator has been flushed and cleaned, it cools just fine. Fans are running fine, also.

I've read (thanks, Steve P) that it's not necessary to remove the crank pulley to get the belt off and on, and I plan on using the cam sprocket alignment template (thanks again, Steve) to ensure the cams remain in time at the TDC position. I'm even going to mark the auxiliary shaft pulley so hopefully ignition timing should be unaffected, also.

The camshaft seals themselves seem to be holding up ok, and there's no seepage from the front crank seal either. In fact, this car leaves no drops on the garage floor at all (knock on wood). Wish I could say that for my Spider! :LOL: :LOL:
 

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Sounds like you got it.
So just random comments that are vaguely related.
The template avoids having to remove the valve covers. I didn't use the template and removed the valve covers, to check cam timing, in doing so I noticed that the bolt securing the cover with the ground wires was stripped. I used Helicoils (genuine Helicoil helicoils) to repair. Anyway, you wont need to worry about this. And I blame the previous owners, as evidenced by my camshaft oilseal mounting surface were butchered at some point.
And another random observation while I repaired my camshaft seals: It's fascinating that Alfa actually designed this engine so you can remove the camshafts without disturbing the timing belt. And actually I believe this means you can do this camshaft front nut o-ring (different from camshaft seals) anytime, as re-timing is not necessary. That front nut o-ring was a huge leak source for me. The top of my engine is dry. Bottom is still wet, since I didn't do front main seal.
 

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Absolutely no need to remove the cam covers unless of course you want to adjust the valve clearance or something.
There are timing marks on the cam sprockets and the plastic covers. Not sure what templates you mean but once you have the timing marks lined up just make a little dot with a paint pen on the back of the sprocket and cylinder head. And on the distributor drive.
Radiator out of course.
Make sure you do the AC belt up super tight or it will slip.
Get all your thermostat gaskets sorted and a probably a thermostat. Take care the thermostat bolts don't snap off. Usual stuff, same same with the 164.

Forgive me alfaloco, I have done this so many times but I can't remember. I think the crank pulley needs to come off to do the water pump. Might depend if it has a crank trigger or not. Not sure what you guys have over there. I think we had leaded and unleaded GTV'6 here, different management systems. Unleaded has a crank sensor and trigger wheel. I'm sure someone else can be more certain.

With regard to all the seals, see if the belt is contaminated with oil.
Maybe pull the plugs because you will be turning the engine a lot.

If you have done 164 belts you will find it easy.(y)

PS I like to take the hood off as well. Its dead easy and saves your back.
 

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I was just about to suggest the sprocket marking but alfettaparts beat me to it, here is a photo of my cam timing marks, and as a party trick you can check your cam timing while the engine is running with a timing light. The crank pully won't need to come off.
Automotive tire Gas Concrete Metal Soil
 

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Well, while testing the alternator on my son's GTV 6, I noticed some antifreeze drops and tracing them down, I found the water pump pulley has a slight wobble and the seal's weeping. So now we got a water pump/timing belt/tensioner job in our near future. I had heard a bit of a whine lately with a warm engine, so now I know from whence it whineth.

Since this will be our first rodeo with the V6 timing belt, if anyone has any bits of wisdom to throw our way we'd be glad to listen. I've read a lot from Alfisto Steve over on the 164 forum, and nothing about the job concerns me since I've been wrenching for decades, but I'm still appreciative of any tips. We're going to install the new Centerline tensioner with the adjustment stud, a new Dayco belt, and new water pump. The thermostat was new about three years back. All hoses were replaced back when we first worked the car over in 2015 -2016. The radiator has been flushed and cleaned, it cools just fine. Fans are running fine, also.

I've read (thanks, Steve P) that it's not necessary to remove the crank pulley to get the belt off and on, and I plan on using the cam sprocket alignment template (thanks again, Steve) to ensure the cams remain in time at the TDC position. I'm even going to mark the auxiliary shaft pulley so hopefully ignition timing should be unaffected, also.

The camshaft seals themselves seem to be holding up ok, and there's no seepage from the front crank seal either. In fact, this car leaves no drops on the garage floor at all (knock on wood). Wish I could say that for my Spider! :LOL: :LOL:
Which tensioner do you have on the car now?

If its the original one. I would just get a reseal kit for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Which tensioner do you have on the car now?

If its the original one. I would just get a reseal kit for it.
Jim it has the thermal compensated mechanical tensioner on it now and it's been fine since we got the car in 2014. But I do keep tabs on the position of the marks down there. Because the failure mode of this tensioner is basically a valve disaster, it's coming off. The fixed tensioner is well proven it's simple and it does not have three springs, for goodness sake!
Whoever came up with that should have had their head examined, IMO.
I have an old oil fed tensioner, but I can't justify putting it on this motor when the alternative is basically maintenance-free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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So I just installed the Centerline Staybelt tensioner. I found (on two different ones) the stud holding the pulley is not quite long enough for the plastic of the locknut to grab the stud threads. I talked to Centerline about it and we agreed some loctite blue is good insurance. In theory you’ll never touch that nut again anyway.
Also, I advise inspecting the weld on said stud. That is the reason I had to get two of these.
 
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If you are moving away form the Alfa mechanical tensioner, I would be glad to take the old one off your hands. Will pay postage and am willing to take the risk that the torsion spring end is broken. My only spare has a broken torsion spring. I'd use it if needed, but would be better to have a complete backup.

I've always run the Alfa mechnicals and have never had an issue (knock on wood).

Crank pulley won't need to come off to do the water pump.

What you plan to do is a nice afternoon in the garage!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you are moving away form the Alfa mechanical tensioner, I would be glad to take the old one off your hands. Will pay postage and am willing to take the risk that the torsion spring end is broken. My only spare has a broken torsion spring. I'd use it if needed, but would be better to have a complete backup.

I've always run the Alfa mechnicals and have never had an issue (knock on wood).

Crank pulley won't need to come off to do the water pump.

What you plan to do is a nice afternoon in the garage!
ok thanks there Mark-- I'll save that tensioner for you, and I'll visually check the spring on the back. It should be ok, since the indicator has always stayed right where it should be with a cold motor. It will be a little while before we get to it, since Mike and Sarah are moving soon and we all have our hands full right now.
 

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I don’t have anything really to add, have 6x1 and 7x1 helicoils on hand, I usually change the little orings on the cams hubs just cause it’s so easy at this point (and are the common leak point) and be prepared for a bad ac belt tensioner pulley bearing.... :-s With the awesome template, the hardest part of the whole job is getting to the job...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don’t have anything really to add, have 6x1 and 7x1 helicoils on hand, I usually change the little orings on the cams hubs just cause it’s so easy at this point (and are the common leak point) and be prepared for a bad ac belt tensioner pulley bearing.... :-s With the awesome template, the hardest part of the whole job is getting to the job...
Thanks there Carson... yes I agree about the hardest part of the job, alright. That's life, I suppose. I'll take your advice on the Helicoils, too.

Di Fatta (Giovanni) had a new water pump in his stock.

DJ
 

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Rereading this thread,I hope the project turned out fine. I did not realize any GTV6 models ever had Motronic fuel injection system and sensor trigger crank pulley. I know later euro 75 (Milano) Verde models had Motronic system so with certain water pumps as I found one recently on my current Alfa 168B project engine the crank pulley has to come off. USA spec Milanos had same L-Jetronic system as GTV6.

OBTW on the 168B project I just busted old leaking pump in half as new pump housing different and clears crank pulley.
 

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I am not sure they did. I thought maybe the last ones that came here in 86 had motronic but might just be confused with 75's and 90's. When I contributed to this thread I was hoping someone might provide some clarification.
I am pretty sure even the SA 3L GTV6 didn't have Motronic. Did they come with carburetors?
 
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