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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Lost turn signals, dash lights, tail lights and side markers and found F11 7.5A fuse for turn signals, aforementiond light; etc., blown in G1 main fuse box.

Replaced it and all was well until I got part way home.

I got tail lights and dash lights back by using parking light switch in center console next to hazard switch. This usually only works when key off but with F11 blown it works with key on so at least I got tail lights back but no turn signals.

Hazard switch does work so have dualing turn signals when needed.

Will have to work on finding short tomorrow.

Have a buyer for the car so I guess it decided it isn't ready to be sold and decided to show me it doesn't want to be sold.

It has become my primary daily driver so maybe I don't really want to sell it either.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Changed N21 Parking Light Control Unit a 6-pin tall white relay today and installed new fuse. So far so far.

Other issues with car - my previous in place repair to broken heater motor temp lever door failed so tomorrow have to pull blower motor and replace lever.

R/R inner door handle broken off as recent pasenger found he couldn't get out of rear seat. I never noticed handle was already broken off.

Voltmeter pegs to 16v as soon as key turned on. Resistor on instrument panel circuit board checked out at 46 ohms as per color code on resistor so no joy. Did learn how to disassemble instrument cluster down to parade rest though to get to resistor on circuit board.

Ended up robbing instrument cluster out of Old Blue.

Car is "sold" so now it seems to be saying to me not so fast on finalizing the sale. guess it is getting even.
 

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R/R inner door handle broken off as recent pasenger found he couldn't get out of rear seat. I never noticed handle was already broken off.
Haha - rear seat issues take a while to notice, don't they!


Did learn how to disassemble instrument cluster down to parade rest though to get to resistor on circuit board.
Parade rest?
Funnily enough I have also dismantled the instrument cluster just yesterday - strange that we end up doing the same jobs at the same time (first the heater, then the door hinge, and now this). It's an interesting juggle with the odometer, isn't it. I remount the odometer further back by placing the rubber spacer on the back of the housing instead of inside. This improves the night-time readability as more light gets to it (daytime readability is a bit less because of the need to look through the holes).

For me, the real need to take apart the cluster was yet another random behaviour - the string of warning lights would flicker on all at once, starting with the end lights (green stripes). I had this same problem on my '89 164 and eventually solved it with a repaired ground connection after resoldering of bad solder joints inside the cluster. This time I resoldered lots of very bad solder joints, but it made no difference. I think the real problem is the lower-right plug connector, specifically the ground wire. I've added another ground wire (soldered to the cluster and attached to the steering column ground point).

Car is "sold" so now it seems to be saying to me not so fast on finalizing the sale. guess it is getting even.
Been there, done that - often nothing but trouble selling a car, brings on all sorts of problems... I have put in a week's work for a hundred dollars return before...

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Parade Rest old military saying (command to stand at ease command - almost) basically relaxed (dissassembled to the max in Naval Aviation terms). So sort of like field strip I guess.
 

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"Changed N21 Parking Light Control Unit a 6-pin tall white relay today and installed new fuse. So far so far. "

This issue sounds all to familiar to me...so where is the N21 Parking Light Control Unit located? And can it be refurbished or where can I locate a new one?

I followed the write up by LorenZ and jumped to the same conclusion he reached. Namely that my dimmer switch was bad because the resistance did not change when the variable ohm resister was adjusted. (I found no bad fuses or corrosion)

Fortunately I was able to find three sellers offering OEM, NOS dimmer switches on eBay. I made them all the same offer ($50+S/H) and bought one from the Marc Ereminas (Don's son). Unfortunately this did not correct the issue (well described by Steve above) and the new dimmer performs much as the old one had. Now I can only drive in daylight, using hand signals. At least the brake lights still work.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I forgot everything I knew about this problem but as for dimmer currently I have installed a toggle switch to bypass bad dimmer on BB1 as I am in Virginia with car and spare parts are in FL.

So I have full bright dash lights or none using toggle. Turns, tail and brake lights all work fine.
 

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I knew a guy with a 96 Z-28, Forest green with a tan interior. He had a “short” causing all of his lights to go haywire. Dash lights would go nuts all lights would go berserk.
It went to Chevy and racked up a 300 dollar repair estimate and they couldn’t fix it. He wandered into a shop I worked in and told me he had a short.

I told him GM cars don’t get shorts. He went wacky on me telling me how the Gods of GM couldn’t repair the car.

I went out and took a look at it, in 20 seconds I had it figured out. I’m no genius, but the front drivers turn signal light was just not right.

I got another bulb and removed the blackened bulb from the socket and cracked it open gently, the filament was annihilated and the heat generated caused the metal tang holding the filament up to warp into the other end of the filament tang on the team sing good filament causing a crossover of voltage to that one, this freaked out the courtesy module and caused all sorts of disco lights In the car.

He apologized and went back to Chevy to get his Money back on the diagnostics. The moral of the story is to not assume anything, always do the basic checks first. Start with the bulbs, sockets, fuses etc.

I’m sorry this email was unfinished, I just edited it. I had to stop thumbing my phone and do some honey do’s here in the house and I put the phone in my pocket. It must have posted my unfinished comment lol!
 

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One of my 'reverse lights' was out on the 'S'. I could hear it physically rolling around in the light housing and thought the bulb had detached from the brass base. I removed whatever I had to and found the bulb had just fallen out of the socket. I reinserted it, twisted it in the socket and it still works.

Mark
 
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