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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I decided to pull the transmission on my 85 Spider Veloce. This is a carryover thread from where I went through every thing from a bad pivot arm and the replacement of all of the clutch hydraulics(see here). I had been noticing a rattle when I depressed the clutch and suspected the throwout bearing was bad. Now I cant get into gear from a stop with the engine running. So pulling the trans.

Here are my first shots. did the console Electrical wiring Cable management Wire Electronics Cable


Then the exhaust connections and hangers

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Then the crossbar and here I think I have a tip,.. One bolt is hard to reach under the heat shield so I think I will leave it in and just swivel this piece out of the way. I think It will make this easier to put back.

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On to the Propeller flange next
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Flange removal Problem

Well here is my fisrt problem. I am trying to remove the flange bolts, but Think I may be rounding them off, so I stopped and soaked them down with PB blaster, Anyone got any tips on the removal of these? I do have a new U-Joint I wanted to install so I was toying with leaving the flange and trying to remove the u-joint to disconnect this. Anyone done this on the car?

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got the drive shaft off

Ok got the drive shaft off by taking out the u-joint. Now trying to get the speedometer cable off. The knurled retainer is not moving, going to try a little vice grip on it.
 

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Ok got the drive shaft off by taking out the u-joint. Now trying to get the speedometer cable off. The knurled retainer is not moving, going to try a little vice grip on it.
Yesterday I used a simple pair of pliers, after soaking the whole thing with liquid wrench. I just moved it 1/2 a turn and it was free. I used fingers after that. Looks like we are doing the same things at the same time. Have fun. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Speedo cable

Spiderweb
Just wondering. Is this a normal connection, and by that I mean it's not reverse threaded right?

PS I'll post some more pictures as I go.

Gabriel
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
not quite yet

Not quite yet. I was afraid of crushing it with the Vice grips. Will work a little on it tonight , but dont think Il get the trans out until tommorrow.
 

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gadwhite:

In the photo that you posted (re-posted below) showing the mangled heatshield - are you aware that the stuff on the topside of the shield is asbestos? Disturbing that while you are working under the car is hazardous to your health - if you must, then don't breathe for awhile.

I have never had much success working on U joints while the driveshaft is still installed in the car. I'm impressed that you got yours apart in situ. Pressing the new U joints back in may be difficult from underneath. Even with the driveshaft on my bench, using a hydraulic press, I've struggled to get the cups in straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Asbestos

Wow
Thanks for the warning. Alfa Jay mask on for sure now. Here are some more pictures.

Here is the u-joint partially dissasebled.
Auto part Pipe Transmission part Wheel Gear



I disconnected the drive shaft from the Gubi after marking the shaft and the trans connection.
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With the trans jacked up on the transmission jack. It pushed the engine forward enough for me to get to the top bolts and the starter motor( top 2) bolts.
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Also I cleaned up my trans support and here are parts of the new poly support bushing.
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Hope these help someone. More tomorrow, when I should finally get the trans out.
 

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trans removal

I just got done putting a clutch in my spider. I unbolted the radiator shroud so the engine could tilt back and not break the fan. It is quite a chore to get the trans out but very do able. I would shim the front of the engine against the panguard to keep the back down to re insert the trans. Take the drive shaft out completely. Just use the right size open end wrenches to remove the flange bolts. Replace the u joint on the bench...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
trans remove

I just got done putting a clutch in my spider. I unbolted the radiator shroud so the engine could tilt back and not break the fan. It is quite a chore to get the trans out but very do able. I would shim the front of the engine against the panguard to keep the back down to re insert the trans. Take the drive shaft out completely. Just use the right size open end wrenches to remove the flange bolts. Replace the u joint on the bench...
Thanks for the reminder about the fan shroud. I split the u-joint at the flange, the open ended wrenches could only budge one of the flange bolts on the car. I may have to cut the rest off. The drive shaft is out completely now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
slow progress, but progress

I realize that I am painfully slow, but I literally, only get to work on the car for 30 minutes each night ( kids homework etc.).
Anyway. Im down to two bolts one driver side bellhousing bolt, and the lower starter motor bolt. Here are some more pictures, this shows my flywheel sensors, and ground strap disconnected.

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Then someone had asked about the Harbor Freight Transmission Jack, which in my opinion is a lifesaver, because, I can raise or lower the trans (even when attached to the engine), enough to make it easier to get at the belhousing and starter motor bolts. $59

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Go, man go!

Go gadwhite, go!

Mine will be out tonight, come hell or high water! Everything's disconnected, sans the clutch housing bolts. The driveshaft was a bear-cat! I finally was able to pound out, gently, the universals. The bolts were on too well, just like yours.

I disconnected all of the 'c' clips on the universal's, and chose a side to start with at random.

I pounded on one side of the uni with a socket and hammer. The other side of the uni poked out. With liquid wrench spray, I was then able to remove it with a vice grip (replacement universals on standby).

Then, using the socket again went form the other side, the now smaller end, sans the cap. Pounding on that, and using liquid wrench liberally, it finally slipped out the other side. Once again using the vice grip to remove that one.

Using the same procedure, I was able to get the other two caps off as well and the universal was out!

I ruined a good socket doing it, but, the job is done and the driveshaft is out and laying on the garage floor ready for cleaning and refurbishing.

It was easy to remove the bolts now, because a socket fit the top and they broke loose with little effort! With the wrenches, and universal's in place, they would not budge and I feared for my wrenches. They were bending!!!!!

I forgot to mark the universal casting ends. Oops. I guess it'll need to be balanced now.
 

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Help!

Transmission is entirely unbolted from the engine and body. It looks completely clear, and yet, it's stuck on there. It will not budge. :(

Why wont it pull off? :confused:

Is there someway I can persuade it with a lever at the engine block instead up pulling straight back? :confused:

I don't want to damage anything. Aluminum is SOOOOOO soft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
trans remove

OK I was expecting this on mine, and I think what you need to do is remove or undo the fan shroud, Then jack up the front of the motor to tilt the whole assembly enough for the trans to clear the floor of the passenger compartment above. See this thread of Oski_bear's
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
something to check

Go gadwhite, go!



I forgot to mark the universal casting ends. Oops. I guess it'll need to be balanced now.
I noticed on my flange someone had marked it with a punch, with a line that crosses both edges of the flange. dont know if this is factory or not. Check yours for a similar mark. If I get a chance I'll take a picture. Did you get the trans out? Go! Spider Go!

Gabriel
 
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