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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In case anyone was wondering...here's a step by step of how I've pulled the steering wheels out of my '74 GTV as well as my '69 Spider.

Tool Screw


The tools that I used were:
1/2" breaker bar
1/2" ratchet
small extension
27mm socket
Flat head screwdriver
Dental pick
Wheel puller with 5/8" socket and piece of 1/8" steel strap to use to fit over top of steering tube.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Steering part Steering wheel


Before and hopefully after pic

Land vehicle Vehicle Steering part Car Steering wheel


Pop off the center hub

Gauge Vehicle Auto part Car Tachometer


Disconnect horn wires and pry back lock ring

Land vehicle Vehicle Steering part Car Steering wheel


Remove lock nut with 27mm socket and breaker bar. I had to use quite a bit of force to remove the lock nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Steering wheel removal - part 2

Steering part Gauge Auto part Steering wheel Odometer


Take out the lock ring.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Steering part Steering wheel


Use the puller to remove the wheel. The puller uses machine screws that fit into the two holes in the steering wheel at top and bottom of photo. The 1/8" square piece of steel fits over the opening in top of the steering tube and gives the puller something to push against. The breaker bar helps a lot here as I needed to use quite a bit of force to get the wheel to release.

Auto part Gauge Motor vehicle Vehicle Speedometer


The "woodruff key" that you see at the top of the photo is supposed to be at this angle. It's removeable - make sure not to lose it!

Wheel Auto part Rim Automotive wheel system Tire


This is the back side with the slot that houses the key

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Steering part Steering wheel


Reverse the process and you are done. You should completely tighten the locknut while being careful to not overtighten it to the point that it bends the slot at the back of the wheel.
 

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I followed your very well documented description and then went the step further to remove the alloy cowling and ignition switch. I'd just add the once you've undone the two bolts through the cowling remember to put the keys in the ignition and turn it on to disactivate the steering lock - otherwise the cowling doesn't slide off.
 

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Hi!

Thanks for the informative pictures!

I'm trying reinstall a new steering wheel on my Jr Zagato. I've done so previously. But the woodruff key have always irritated me. Now, I've always mounted it flat, and parallel to the slot in the wheel. You mention that it is supposed to sit at an angel. The key is longer on one side, with sides sloping down to a shorter side (sideways view). Which part is supposed to point/face upwards from the column, the shorter or the longer side?

Thanks in advance!
 

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The long side of the key goes up.
If you take a look at the slot in the column, it should be (reasonably) machined to accept the shape of the short side of the key.
 

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Hi All,

I would add that on occasion I have found the steering wheel on very tight; maybe it was over torqued or maybe there was a corrosion factor, (What is the torque for re-installation?) such that the force required on the puller bolt distorted the top of the steering shaft.

So I turned up an stepped steel insert, about 5/8" long, that went down the shaft's hole (after you push the wire down) and the step rested flat on the top of the shaft. I also provided a centering hole to receive the puller bolt and keep its force centered rather than rotating off to one side.

FWIW

Ken
 
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The long side of the key goes up.
If you take a look at the slot in the column, it should be (reasonably) machined to accept the shape of the short side of the key.
Thanks again !

I did this. When I release the sleeve, the wood ruff key (from the load of the sleeve), no matter what I do end up protruding so much up that it is higher than the depth of the slot in the wheel. Se enclosed picture.
The only way to get the key to go down slightly is to press on the sleeve. But in order to mount the wheel I need to let go of the sleeve........ Moment 21.... :mad:

Where is that italian engineer when you need to whack his head ? ;)
 

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Thanks again !

I did this. When I release the sleeve, the wood ruff key (from the load of the sleeve), no matter what I do end up protruding so much up that it is higher than the depth of the slot in the wheel. Se enclosed picture.
The only way to get the key to go down slightly is to press on the sleeve. But in order to mount the wheel I need to let go of the sleeve........ Moment 21.... :mad:

Where is that italian engineer when you need to whack his head ? ;)
put very small amount of glue on key and hold in position until glue sets. Clean off excess glue and mount your wheel.

Ken
 

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Bolt Sizes For the Puller

I need to remove the steering wheel on a '67 Duetto. What size are the bolts needed for the holes in the wheel? I have a puller (HF special) but need long bolts to reach inside the hub.
 

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I need to remove the steering wheel on a '67 Duetto. What size are the bolts needed for the holes in the wheel? I have a puller (HF special) but need long bolts to reach inside the hub.
All the wheels I have seen would require an M6 bolt to pull them.

Ken
 

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Thanks!.........................
 

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Thanks again !

I did this. When I release the sleeve, the wood ruff key (from the load of the sleeve), no matter what I do end up protruding so much up that it is higher than the depth of the slot in the wheel. Se enclosed picture.
The only way to get the key to go down slightly is to press on the sleeve. But in order to mount the wheel I need to let go of the sleeve........ Moment 21.... :mad:

Where is that italian engineer when you need to whack his head ? ;)
Y'all can see(if the link came with) the turn signal return spring wrapped around the steering column, eh. With the s/column shrouds removed, and the steering wheel in place, does anyone have any suggestions or trick on how to re-install the return spring w/o removing the steering wheel? I tried and stretched both ends of the spring and now waiting for a new one. I would pull the steering wheel but I can't find a rental kit locally w/the correct metric threaded bolts and the right parts to work together to get it off.
 

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Steering wheel removal - part 2

View attachment 83792

Take out the lock ring.

View attachment 83793

Use the puller to remove the wheel. The puller uses machine screws that fit into the two holes in the steering wheel at top and bottom of photo. The 1/8" square piece of steel fits over the opening in top of the steering tube and gives the puller something to push against. The breaker bar helps a lot here as I needed to use quite a bit of force to get the wheel to release.

View attachment 83794

The "woodruff key" that you see at the top of the photo is supposed to be at this angle. It's removeable - make sure not to lose it!

View attachment 83795

This is the back side with the slot that houses the key

View attachment 83796

Reverse the process and you are done. You should completely tighten the locknut while being careful to not overtighten it to the point that it bends the slot at the back of the wheel.
Hello Pat, I have just removed the original steering wheel of my '72 2000 GTV, using you very clear and useful description. Thank you! BUT,.....I never found the "woodruff key" as described by you.....but I did not have issues with the steering .... so what is exactly this woodruff key's function and should I try to get one before installing my new (Nardi) steering wheel? ..... thank you in advance for your help. Best regards/Peter (Netherlands)
 

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The woodruff key is absolutely required to positivity lock the wheel rotationally to the steering column. Without it, you are in danger of having the wheel rotate on the steering shaft which would be a disaster and could easily lead to a complete loss of steering.
 
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