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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Continuing from ...

So I've tacked in the repair piece behind the front wheel arch and extremely happy that pretty much the door and front guard marry together nicely and she looks lovely and straight.

Naturally I have some questions but first I'll show you where I'm at. Please ignore the door to front guard gap, this will be sorted later when I weld the repair patch in properly. It's just tacked in there at the moment to help me visualise the curvature of the door and how much more shrinking I need to do.

Happy Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
But I think, potentially due to me having her sand blasted, the rear of the front wheel arch has a little too much curvature and I will need to reshape this area a wee bit.

Correct me if I am wrong please, but these cars by design should have the same curve from front to back below the body line and effectively the wheel arches are the only things that interrupt this. So up until the minor flaring of the arches that curve should not be interrupted?

A few more pictures with a couple where I've tried to highlight the area that I believe needs work. Note that with the 2nd photo I am aware that the guard and my repair panel have shrunk in. Naturally I will fix that when I weld in the repair piece properly, but I think the arch protrudes too much.

Maybe I'm wrong about it being caused by sand blasting. It may have been caused by that guard having it's bottom cut off for so many years and so many moves ... Note to anybody reading and doing the same: weld in a temporary piece from the arch to the bulkhead BEFORE you cut the bottom of rear of the front guards so the guard shape stays.
Pete
 

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Great to see you are making progress! Hat's off to you and anyone else who is doing metalwork on their Alfa. Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks good ‘Happy’. When did you start? The link in your first post here doesn’t seem to work.
Link fixed.

I started this cars restoration 32 years ago, I think. My signature has a link to the restorations parent thread.
Pete
 

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Link fixed.

I started this cars restoration 32 years ago, I think. My signature has a link to the restorations parent thread.
Pete
And you started it in Oz right? When ironically is about the same time I pulled my 2000 GTV off the road. It’s currently finally getting painted in Melbourne.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Link fixed.

I started this cars restoration 32 years ago, I think. My signature has a link to the restorations parent thread.
Pete
And you started it in Oz right? When ironically is about the same time I pulled my 2000 GTV off the road. It’s currently finally getting painted in Melbourne.
Actually in Auckland, NZ then yes she was moved to Sydney, Australia ... and now back in NZ.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So what do you reckon, should I weld in the lower rear guard repair piece? I actually cut more off the shell to eliminate a butt weld that I did when I made the last repair piece for this area ... yes I'm repeating areas that I did when I was much younger but since then I have learnt much more on how these cars go together ... yeah I know I should just finish her but if its wrong it will annoy me for years.

Anyway here's some photos ... and if you think it's not right, please tell me as it only has a single tack weld so far:
Pete
 

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Link fixed.

I started this cars restoration 32 years ago, I think. My signature has a link to the restorations parent thread.
Pete
Highly efficient... if you had done it all at once, it’d probably need redoing about now :smile2:


(Seven years since my Duetto came off the road, and counting)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmm, nobody is saying anything ... ?

I know she looks a bit rough as yes I have some more shrinking and panel beating to do, and the front guard piece needs some more work. Remember the front guard piece will be removed and worked on more, the inner panel repaired and then the reworked piece will be welded in properly.

The rear guard piece was proving difficult for me to cut it so it lined up perfectly with the rear guard. So I got it real close and have tacked it in and the plan to trim it (carefully) while in place. Maybe it too will have to be removed once it has been shaped correctly.

Once these pieces are in, I'll do the door gaps. Remember also there is absolutely no bog/filler on her. Also I'm just rattle can spraying on any primer as I live in NZ, not far from the sea, and paranoid about rust. Maybe you need to imagine her in one colour :)

I'm fairly happy. It's annoying that I have more shrinking to do but that's life, and the fact that I've managed to get the bottom of the front guard so it does not appear to be sticking out (like a lot of these cars do) and if you look from the front to the back, or visa versa, she looks like a flat panelled 105 series GTV with no pillowing door, makes me relieved. But yeah any advice greatly appreciated, as once fully welded way harder to rectify.
Pete
 

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Hi Pete, when it's daylight I'll get a straight edge on the front of my Junior which has not been touched other than a repaint and I'll take a pic and post for you.
Regards John
 

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I’d use replacement panels where possible as it speeds things up and they’re generally very good... but you do like to espouse the opinion ( :) ) that things should be left as original as possible and fixed, so perhaps nobody’s game to say :)

I have a rear arch repair panel downstairs, happy to measure how high it goes tomorrow if you want.. it is a very good shape/repro, I checked it when I bought it.


Or, are you talking about the white bit you made.. I’m tired, sorry
 

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My take-Looks pretty good, and if you don't mind a bit of filler will work out well.
if, on the other hand, you are looking for perfection, it seems like it could use a bit of curvature to it on each side of the crease..i like using pvc piping to gain curve as i don't have a roller. some of the curve will also flatten out when you weld as the gap, and of course, you can get to the top weld seam to planish but the bottom one will not be accessible.

hats off to you as I mostly just get the repair panels for efficiency purposes.

said with 2 GTV's in major mid-repair and one duetto jr patiently awaiting major repair (and affliction i am thinking)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I’d use replacement panels where possible as it speeds things up and they’re generally very good... but you do like to espouse the opinion ( <img src="https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg" /> ) that things should be left as original as possible and fixed, so perhaps nobody’s game to say <img src="https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg" />
I'm very much trying to make it how she was, ie. original, and in this case I would like somebody to help me, critique my work please and tell me (ie. tell me how it is ;)) what to improve :)

In regards to replacement panels, I used to buy them but they were very poor back then. I believe things have improved but also they have become very expensive and I can't afford to spend what would work out as $1000's in NZ dollars ... yes it would save my time but my time is free. The last one I bought was the front cross member under the radiator and they do not make the correct one anymore, so I spent ages correcting it.
willwiser said:
My take-Looks pretty good, and if you don't mind a bit of filler will work out well.
if, on the other hand, you are looking for perfection, it seems like it could use a bit of curvature to it on each side of the crease
Am I correct in the crease you are talking about is the one in line with the top of the rocker/sill panel? So you are saying it is too sharp? I can soften it and yes I don't have a wheel either but can put some curve above and below. Yes filler will have to be involved but of course I am aiming for the minimum ... I have a book on the process of making show cars and was horrified to discover they completely bog a car and then sand it down to make them dead straight. Obviously though for this not to be noticeable (re door edges) you need the shell to be pretty good in the first place ...

I believe it fades out into the rear arch, correct? I'll spend some more time looking at photos ...

Your input is appreciated :)
Pete
 

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To clarify, yes, the crease line is in alignment with the top of the rocker. I would not worry about the crease being too sharp as paint will "round" it off. The curve I was talking about is above and below the crease
line...which is to say the body curves to the crease. The rear rocker also does curves in toward the wheel well as you mention. I would try to get some curve in it before you weld if you can which will minimize the filler.
 

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OK here you go.....pics 14 and15 front door and guard sill and guard respectfully. Hope the pics help. Oh and 1 more thing mate these cars where never made absolutely perfect.
P.S. had a drive of the Ferrari a couple of weekends ago and I must say I prefer the Alfa which surprised me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Brilliant photos and helps me understand willwiser's point.

Nice Alfa btw, and thanks. Great site this AlfaBB.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've made the horizontal body line too soft now, but otherwise ready to weld in. Will sharpen the line a bit first ... the repair piece is just sitting there.
Pete
 

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