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So, I found this car. I have absolutely no association with the seller, I cannot vouch for him, I've never been to Ohio, and I'm green.:

http://www.classicandsportscar.com/cars_for_sale_results.asp?makeid=3&txtMake=3&txtModel=&txtModelText=&txtYearFrom=&txtYearTo=&txtCountry=US&txtMinPrice=&txtMaxPrice=&txtSaleType=1&txtSort=1&txtPerPage=10&search.x=53&search.y=12&search=submit

Sheesh, long link. The fellah was very nice and quickly e-mailed me some extensive photos. I’ve become more interested in the Sprints, Jr.s, and GTAs than the GTV 2000s my wife is hankering for. To my untrained eye, I thought this looked great, clean, perfect for me - although I’m also a sucker for a nice paint job, which “Seinista” warned me about.

So this must be a mislabel, right? This looks like a GTA 1300 Jr. from the books. I’m confused about his description of the engine, the two liter drivetrain, etc. I would love to hear what anyone thought about this car.

If this is a ‘70 Sprint GT Veloce, I thought that model went out in ’68. Isn’t the single grille bar from a GT 1300 Jr. and when did the stepnose go out?

Any thoughts on value if it is a Jr. 1300? I haven’t seen enough to figure it out yet. Should I try to convince my wife that 2000s aren’t the be all and end all?

From Seller: “Imported here in 2002 by an automotive engineer who searched Italy for the most rustfree GTV he could find, which he did at last in Torino. Lovingly cared for by him with all new Dellorto carbs, starter, electricals, brakes including new booster, suspension, stainless headers, paint in original color, body rubber, 5 original Cromodora alloy wheels; updated with 2 liter drivetrain with only 15,000 kilometers on engine, gearbox, diff. Strong engine with 150 lbs. plus compression.”

Thanks for the help on so many questions. Just looking for some clarity.
John
 

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Hi John,
I'd say it started life as a Junior, though the serial number will tell you for sure. The dash and grille sides are the main clues, and Juniors kept their step-front through about '70. The center grille is from a Giulia Super and decals give it a GTAjr look. Probably a fun car if it was sorted properly when converted to 2L.

Steel bodied GT/GTVs are priced almost entirely on condition. Year, model and trim don't seem to affect the price much.
 

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I concur with Mike; the chassis number will tell.
If it is a 1970, then it's a Series 2 GT 1300 Junior. If a 67/68, then it could be a Giulia Sprint GT Veloce.

There's no such thing as a 1970 Giulia Sprint GTV.

edit; just had another look at the pic. It has a 1750 style dash. These dashes were also fitted to the Series 2 Juniors.
 

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It is a heavily reworkedGT 1300 JR second series, because otherwise it could not have a 2000 engine installed, normally speaking. Because a Sprint or an early GT has a mechanical clutch. And you can not mate a mechanical clutch to a 2000 flywheel easily. However, 2nd series Juniors have a hydraulic clutch, which makes it easy.
It has headrests. They are not 2000 or 1750 headrests, and 1st or 2nd series GT or Sprints did not have headrests.
Bensinger sells nice cars, as a whole.
Lets say this car is in a bodily good condition, given that is is not original it won't bring in the whole full amount. I'd say, something like 12000 euro's MAXIMUM.

But a cool car nonetheless, cool engine etc.
Ask pics of all the areas mentioned earlier. Sills, radiator support, door bottoms, rear window frame etc.
also ask what rear axle was used. the 1300 axle does NOT have LSD, and the ratio is fun but far to short for highway driving. Ask if a 2000 axle is fitted, and if so , which?
(berlina or GTV2000)
Also ask if the uprights were replaced with 2000 items with the bigger brakes. 1300/1600 units will have a hard time on trackdays, though OK for normal use with uprated pads.
Keep us posted!
Rik
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jr

From the photographs the body is a GT 1300 JR, as you wrote. He sent me a very complete set of photos, which seemed fine to my untrained eye. I asked for the chassis number and had no response – the seller knows I’ve gone a little cold. He’s asking 28k or 19750 euros, a steep figure in my opinion despite a heated market (but others know better), which led me to ask about the obvious modifications to the car. Thanks, by the way. Very helpful advice.

Still, at the right price, it would be a cool car for me. I love its looks, but I would prefer something closer to the original. A 1300 engine seems appealing from what I’ve read. Yet from what you said, the 1300 axle is no good for highway and the 2000 is better. A problem in L.A. What is LSD (no jokes here)? Also, I saw an eBay GTV that said it had a 4:10 rear. What does that mean? As I wrote, I’m green, but coming up to speed.

So, I’ll scan the boards about the axle issues you raised and pursue my JR questions in another post. Thanks for your help. If I get any more info on this car I’ll post it.

John
 

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Hi Bellochio,

No problem with asking the questions, we all had to start somewhere and I'm pretty new myself.

LSD = Limited slip differential. Without the LSD when you go into a corner hard the inside back wheel lifts off the ground and the tyre will spin taking all the engine load so you slow down. With the LSD the diff itself almost "locks up" or limits the tyre spin so more power goes to the wheel on the road. Doesn't matter in normal street driving but important on the track and useful if you drive fast.

4:1 is the ratio of the rear diff. Generally speaking the higher the number (most are 4:51 or 4:3 or 4:1) the more the engine will rev at the same road speed. These are not real numbers but just guesses but say a 4:51 wil rev at about 5,000 for a given speed the same car with a 4:1 will only be revving at maybe 3,500. You trade off acceleration for top speed.

P.S. I agree the price seems high but it depends on what you want. To restore and modify a car to this condition would cost $10,000 more than they're asking. If you don't care about originality and don't want to do the work yourself and want to keep the car for 10 years or more what will $5,000 matter if you've found the perfect car. If you don't want top condition and maybe won't keep it a long time then save yourself maybe $10,000 and get a "nice" but different one. If you aren't too sure or have patience then another one will pop up.
 

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LSD= limited slip differential,4:10 is the ratio for the diff.You mention L.A. traffic so i assume you live in cali.Lots of good gtvs to be had,take your time and look at a few.The car you are looking at is nice,but not original,for 28k plus shipping and taxes etc...i would want a near perfect original spec car.Throw in the fact its overseas,you need to have it inspected either personally or by someone you trust familiar with alfas.Just a few things to think about.
 

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more questions?
Ask!
BTW, a 1300 axle is just fine on a 1300 engined car, even on the highway. Just not in a 1750 or 2000 engined car. The problem with the 1300 engine is that it is an absolute jewel, but that it gets boring after two weeks of driving. It's fast, for a 1300, but dead slow compared to a 2000....
Still, this car is far too expensive, in my opinion.
 
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