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What you can do in the interim is remove the cam cover from the car, drill out the rivets to remove the yellow plastic blocks, then install 4 new rivets and apply some gasket sealer from the under side of the rivet areas to stop any oil from migrating out.
 

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I would take a careful look at that partially replaced heater hose... looks like the PO 'want to get under the dash to replace the rest of the hose. Also check the rear brake circuit hydraulics (the rear master resrvior looks low) and for any head gasket issues (the overflow tank has seen emulsifed oil).

That being said, welcome to the BB and to the small group of Giallo Piper owners.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
What you can do in the interim is remove the cam cover from the car, drill out the rivets to remove the yellow plastic blocks, then install 4 new rivets and apply some gasket sealer from the under side of the rivet areas to stop any oil from migrating out.

Thanks GTA ALFA - That is a nice idea. I found a picture on the internet of a cover where someone did this and it does look a lot better than the exposed blocks. Plus, I haven't gotten to use my rivet tool in years, how cool I got a use for it. Now - I just wonder where it is?
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I would take a careful look at that partially replaced heater hose... looks like the PO 'want to get under the dash to replace the rest of the hose. Also check the rear brake circuit hydraulics (the rear master resrvior looks low) and for any head gasket issues (the overflow tank has seen emulsifed oil).

That being said, welcome to the BB and to the small group of Giallo Piper owners.
Thanks Bellagt,

I appreciate the comments a lot. I'll put the heater hose on my list of things to explore. I have receipts for the car back to 1981. I don't recall seeing anything on the heater hose, but lots of notes to look through. Interesting enough the receipts stopped about 3 years ago with some of those last receipts concerning a brake project that included pads, rotors, and rebuilt calipers. I'll search all the lines to see if I have a leak. I did go out and look at Brake fluid levels. On the rear reservoir it is right at the minimum line and the front is right above. So clearly some seepage over the last few years.

Concerning the overflow reservoir, I have a picture of the engine compartment from 1987 and the overflow tank looks just about as bad then as it does now. So I went back and guess what? In December 1986 the head was pulled and whole bunch of stuff was serviced, almost impossible to read the two pages of service notes and parts, but there is clearly a head gasket on the parts list. When pulling the spica injector I drained the coolant and it looked very clean. Now 86 was many many years ago and who knows when the last time the coolant was replaced, so definitely something to keep an eye on.

Oh and by the way the same late model cam cover and hold downs are on the engine in '87. Still a mystery why but at least we know they have been there a while.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
And another oh by the way, I didn't find the work order, but found the lower sills and wheel well liners parts on an invoice from '95. A few months later, I found a receipt for cleaning of the undercarriage and sealant applied. I can tell you the entire bottom of the car is coated in a heavy black undercoating.
 

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In response to your question regarding the rear bumpstop/strap screws. I had the same issue on my spider. An impact driver with a phillips attachment made short work of it.
Nice Car....Welcome to the BB
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi Mauricio101, Thank you for the advice, I'll give that a try. I used my 12v cordless bosch impact drill without luck. But I have a compressed air driver I'll try this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hi Toddfiebig,

Thank you for the offer. I live in Sammamish, so not to far away. I'll take you up on your offer as I expect that I will need the help.
 

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Hi Mauricio101, Thank you for the advice, I'll give that a try. I used my 12v cordless bosch impact drill without luck. But I have a compressed air driver I'll try this weekend.
Not going to work.....
The issue here is not with the removing the bolts. Issue is with corrosion and oxidation reaction between the two dissimilar metals... you have an aluminum block/spacer with a steel bolt snugly fitting through the spacer, this is where the corrosion build-up is and where the issue lies. Alfa never treated anything, let alone this area properly. Alfa never figured these car were meant to be hanging around for so long after production.
You will need to drill out the convex head of the two bolts and begin soaking, taping, prying on the spacer. You may also need some heat depending on how bad the situation is. It should eventually break lose and come out. You will then be left with the two bolts that you will have to vise grip out. Then you can being the re-assembly. I would recommend you use bolts with a 13mm head so that its easy to remove with a socket. Also generally apply a nice coating of anti-seize to the bolts, so that anyone removing this in the future for suspension strap replacement or diff change wont have to go through this headache again!
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Funny because my car was so rusty and yet I had no significant issues with removing these. Just lucky I guess
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So tried like heck to unscrew the screws holding the limiting straps with no luck at all. Ended up having to drill them out and then use vise grips to unscrew them. That was a lot of work. but after everything came out, I was able to clean up the pieces, paint the steel parts and polish the aluminum block. I bought the straps from Centerline Alfa and honestly don't really like the look of them. They are functional, but not as nice looking as all cloth straps. Also as advised used anti seize and hex bolts.

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Suspect these bolt being seized might be one of those things that happens on cars that have lived in areas where salt is put on the roads in winter. Will let you know how I go when I try and undo mine in a few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
So was able to get back to my projects this weekend. While I had the back seat out to install rear shocks, I cleaned the area and put some sound proofing down.

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The injection pump came back from Wes this week. Oh my goodness, does that guy do a nice job. Check out the refurbished injection pump, fuel injectors, pulley and thermal actuator! I could not wait to to start the installation.

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Here is a shot after installation of pump and injectors. Top nuts connecting the injector base to the engine were painful to say the least. Not clear what they were thinking with those two nuts. Had to use an open end wrench to tighten them down.

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Was pretty busy from this point. Set engine to TDC, Installed a new injection pump belt and synched the Injection pump with the motor. Had a hard time sliding the new belt on, but then recalled someone noting they used WD 40. I did the same and the belt went on much easier. From there, I installed a new fan belt and radiator hoses, added fresh coolant (remembered to loosen the brass coolant plug and tightened back up). From there installed new distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, and coil. Forgot to get pictures as I was just working to get it to a point of ready to start. Will circle back around at some point and get some photo’s of the finished work.

Buttoned it all up and followed Wes’s start up instructions. And … she started. I literally let out a woop as I couldn’t believe it started on the first effort. Only challenge is that I forgot to take the tape off the idle bypass, so at first when I let off the gas the engine died. But once I realized what was going on. I pulled the tape and she idles perfectly, serious as a heart attack – what a great feeling to go through this installation and she starts and idles. I let her Idle as I installed the air box and put my tools away.

Then what the heck should I do. Well go for a drive of course. First off just a couple loops around the neighborhood. Gave everything a once over and said what the heck and took her out for a test drive and was amazed. She revs so much nicer and has more power across the rev range. I put my foot into it a few times and could not believe the acceleration. What a hoot!

Guys, I am so relieved. I knew this was going to be a lot of work, but I honestly am not sure I was breathing from the moment I finished the installation until I turned the key and began the start up procedure.

As this was the first drive since I updated the suspension you might be wondering how is it. In a word “golden”. Man am I happy, it is exactly what I was hoping for. A little stiffer, much more stable and a very nice ride. On the test drive didn’t do too much in the way of twisties, so that will come a bit later. But overall the suspension is what I was aiming for. Get this - I was even confident enough after the test drive to ask my wife if she wanted to go for a ride. She does not share my enthusiasm for this hobby, but enjoyed going for a nice drive with the windows down and the little vent windows open. She could tell I was happy the two projects worked out.

--- More to come for Limoncello, but for the next little while I am just going to enjoy driving her ---
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
May 11th - Since finishing completion of the latest projects I am driving Limoncello just about every chance I can. First off, what a great little car. My gosh is she a blast to drive. For the most part she is driving very well. I have a couple items that I need to work on that are left overs from the injector pump installation. She starts right up, cold or warm and idle is very solid when warm, however, idle is pretty low when cold and barely keeps running unless I add a little throttle. After about 1 minute the idle stabilizes. I am also getting some back firing if I let off on the gas quickly while changing gears. Also, I posted this in another thread. My engine died about 2 miles from the house. The new ignition coil popped and started leaking. Luckily I still had the old one.

I mentioned in an earlier update how much I like the suspension and what I have learned is that in the twisties she dives into corners pretty neutral, but oversteers mid corner, but it is very manageable and once set, she hangs on tight. Now I am not going very fast, just going at an enjoyable pace on back roads. She is not even close to race car suspension setup and I am ok with that.

The other thing I learned is that the car has a close ration transmission(more on this later). So shifting gears is really fun. At freeway speeds she is at about 4000 rpm. Shifting is smooth and works best in a calm manner, she doesn't like to shift quickly and that frankly is ok with me. I'll need to think about how much I want to stay with the close ratio gearing given the purpose of the car but for now I like it.

Now for the crazy part. I have been honked at only to look over to see thumbs up from the honker. Some guy in a truck drove by pointing at me with a huge smile. I have been stopped at the gas station, at the grocery store and outside of Lowe's by guys that wanted to talk about the car. At the grocery store it was simply hillarious. I drove into a parking spot right in front of the store and the teen age guy collecting carts came up and wanted to know what the car was. On the way out I see some guy standing next to the car staring at her. I walked up and engaged in a long conversation, even opening the hood. While chatting with him two other guys stopped by to talk. seriously what the heck. I guess not many people have seen such a weird little yellow car.

But the best is on Sunday I was driving towards my neighborhood and pass some young kid on a bike. He stops and throws his hands in the air and as I am going by him (windows open) screams what is that car! His dad is behind him and the last thing I hear "dad what is that" I am checking my rear view mirror and he litterally stares at me driving away until I round a corner and lose site of him.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Also, I have spent time talking to and exchanging emails from the prior owner who had the car for 33 years. I have learned a lot about it's history. Turns out he used to race a GT Junior. Which makes sense why he kept this car stock. The reason why my car has a close ratio transmission is that 2nd gear went out at some point and he and his brother, who is a mechanic rebuilt it with close ratio's? I also learned about and received pictures of the lower sill replacement, which included drivers floor and rear wheel arches. It was completely repainted at the time and undercoated.

Since I had such good luck with the last owner, I also reached out to the guy who had the car from the late '70's to about 1986. He has passed away but I got to talk to his son. He remembered the car well and told me it was his fathers pride and joy. His dad was a member of the British Columbia Italian car club and drove the car to various events. Funny enough he may have even watch the next owner race a time or two.
 

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You bought a good solid car there, without rust and with the fun bits to do. It is interesting about the reactions these old cars get from other people. Most cars have a particular demographic that they seem to attract. Here at least, early 911s seem to attract mostly guys in their 40's, 356's guys in their 70's (and strangely kids under 12). The GTVs on the other hand seem to have a far broader demographic.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Brakes
My car's brakes stop well and when braking, the car comes to a stop very straight. The brake feel is a little soft but could be driven like this without worry. Inspected front calipers and they look good. I have receipts and have spoken with prior owner. He installed refurbished front calipers, new pads and rotors a few years/miles ago. So I am confident in the fronts.

The rears are a somewhat older and while working just fine, I made the decision to go ahead and upgrade them so they were current and something I wouldn’t need to worry about. Also, the parking brake does not hold. I tried adjusting as much as I could but while I can just feel them engage, they will not hold the car on even a slight hill.

Also, after seeing GTA ALFA's brakes, I was feeling a little sorry for my rear brakes. Those look so great!

So my plan was to go ahead and do a complete rear brake replacement including parking brakes. I know it is a bit overkill, but with fairly new front brakes, I would feel better having matching new calipers on front and back. Also, brakes could use a fluid flush to firm them up a bit.

Since was bleeding the brakes, I decided to do the clutch at the same time. The clutch take up is pretty low to the floor, hoping this help raise the release point.

Here is the before picture of parts waiting to go in.


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I have to say the parking brakes were the biggest challenge. I hadn’t worked on drum brakes in a long time and those were on American cars. Getting the small springs off either side of the brake shoes and back on again was pretty challenging. Adjusting the handbrake was a little time consuming but it is nice that I have a working hand brake now. The only other item that was a pain was the drivers side disc was stuck on pretty good. I used liquid wrench, and used a large screw driver to pry it off a little bit at a time as I rotated the disc.

Unfortunetly my brake bleeder wouldn’t work on either the brakes or the clutch. So, I enlisted the help of my wife to pump the brakes and clutch for me. She was only slightly annoyed with me 😜.

Quick drive after all was done, and from a stopping perspective, honestly can not tell a lot of difference while braking aside from the brake pedal is firmer. Funny enough the biggest difference came from the least amount of work in that the clutch feels much better and the release point is a bit higher.

Obligatory picture of afterwards. And no they don't look as good as GTA ALFA's. But, I think I can live with them. Especially since they are hidden under my GTA Wheels.


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