Y mas:
Lexan, vented rear window. The rust was too bad to make it worth trying to repair to original. Just covered everything. Used Rustoleum plastic paint to get the black border. You paint the inside and it looks shiny on the outside.
Used sheet metal to repair the right door handle so it wouldn't fall into the door.
Off the shelf, generic air induction hose.
Came with headers. I cut off the oil vapor lines...but there weren't any holes in the headers anyway!
That overflow tank to the left of the coolant overflow is a catch can. It's a less than $20 generic coolant overflow tank, with some "help" it takes oil vapor overflow from the valve cover and dipstick.
Home made brackets for the tow bar. They can double as tow hooks for the track.
The cars on the ground, so no underbody shots right now. I changed the two side motor mounts and all three donuts. While I had the driveshaft out I spray painted the tunnel. It has the late '75 drive shaft. With a little work I found brand new front and middle donuts from Highwood. It was very hard to find a rear. I found a "new" one, but it had been on a shelf for decades and has some dry rot. My gearbox is pretty rough. Crunches into first when starting forward. Crunches going down into second (yeah I know), and just won't go into reverse. NMMilano is here with me in well, NM (LOL), and has been helping a lot. He has a Milano parts car, and I'm going to use that gearbox, and then won't have to deal with 40 year old NOS rear donuts anymore. Also redid the exhaust from the resonator back to a side pipe. Used generic PepBoys exhaust parts, except a Magnaflow racing muffler. They're not needed at our track, but just for my own sense of politeness, hearing, etc. LOL.
I took it out lapping at the track at our last event. I started to get used to it, but spent a lot of time in third gear in second gear turns because my double clutching isn't up to snuff, and I had enough to worry about with a "new" car. Everything else held up pretty well with one exception. All of sudden the (new) fuel pump wouldn't turn on. Fuse and relay changed, still no good. Wound up wiring it directly to the kill switch and it worked fine. Not sure if I want to troubleshoot it, or just hook it up to a proper toggle switch with an inline fuse for now. As far as gauges, the tach and water temp work, which is very good. No oil pressure gauge, which I want to get working, but I was more concerned about overheating at this point.
More to come I guess.
