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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This 76 GT is on it's way to being a lower budget vintage racer. It's basically rust free. The windshield frame and tailgate had rust. I'm pretty happy with my repair to the windshield frame so far. I'm doing a very quick and dirty fix for the tailgate. I'll use a slightly oversized Lexan window to cover the rough parts. I figure, if I ever wanted to, replacing the hatch at a later time wouldn't be too hard. It's gutted. It runs relatively well. I have the (race) seat. Tires and a bolt-in four point roll bar are on order...

My solution for the cracked dash? Well it turns out, under that dried out padding, is a complete steel dash. Flat black paint...and boom, dash good enough for racing!

 

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that's about the amount of space I had to restore our car in. I am having flashbacks now. they are not happy flashbacks :taz:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
LOL. I had to clear out the garage to fit it. There will still be things where it'll have to go into the driveway for "space"!

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #5
More Pix

Well, here's more...



Don't recommend a Lexan windshield, but it's so hard to get a "real" one, and they're OK for racing. It's the minimum allowable (1/8"), but a little wobbly for my taste.



Had flat aluminum for braces at first, but definitely too wobbly, so went to channels. Made the stock mirror fit. Used bolts instead of rivets for removal at a future time. You can also see where I welded in a bent piece of heavy gauge sheet metal because the original was rusted out. Definitely a very low rust desert car, but it couldn't escape the windshield rot.



Stripped all of the (dry and cracked) foam off of the dash, and the guts are "racing dash". LOL. Removable racing steering wheel, racing seat. Gutted, and painted interior with one step automotive paint from NAPA. That's black for the floor pans. I did use spray on bed liner from a can, but it never set, and I had to remove the gooey mess. Also got rid of the sound deadening tar.



Made a battery holder for the small racing battery. That's a battery "saver" that's hooked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Y mas:



Lexan, vented rear window. The rust was too bad to make it worth trying to repair to original. Just covered everything. Used Rustoleum plastic paint to get the black border. You paint the inside and it looks shiny on the outside.



Used sheet metal to repair the right door handle so it wouldn't fall into the door.



Off the shelf, generic air induction hose.



Came with headers. I cut off the oil vapor lines...but there weren't any holes in the headers anyway!



That overflow tank to the left of the coolant overflow is a catch can. It's a less than $20 generic coolant overflow tank, with some "help" it takes oil vapor overflow from the valve cover and dipstick.





Home made brackets for the tow bar. They can double as tow hooks for the track.

The cars on the ground, so no underbody shots right now. I changed the two side motor mounts and all three donuts. While I had the driveshaft out I spray painted the tunnel. It has the late '75 drive shaft. With a little work I found brand new front and middle donuts from Highwood. It was very hard to find a rear. I found a "new" one, but it had been on a shelf for decades and has some dry rot. My gearbox is pretty rough. Crunches into first when starting forward. Crunches going down into second (yeah I know), and just won't go into reverse. NMMilano is here with me in well, NM (LOL), and has been helping a lot. He has a Milano parts car, and I'm going to use that gearbox, and then won't have to deal with 40 year old NOS rear donuts anymore. Also redid the exhaust from the resonator back to a side pipe. Used generic PepBoys exhaust parts, except a Magnaflow racing muffler. They're not needed at our track, but just for my own sense of politeness, hearing, etc. LOL.

I took it out lapping at the track at our last event. I started to get used to it, but spent a lot of time in third gear in second gear turns because my double clutching isn't up to snuff, and I had enough to worry about with a "new" car. Everything else held up pretty well with one exception. All of sudden the (new) fuel pump wouldn't turn on. Fuse and relay changed, still no good. Wound up wiring it directly to the kill switch and it worked fine. Not sure if I want to troubleshoot it, or just hook it up to a proper toggle switch with an inline fuse for now. As far as gauges, the tach and water temp work, which is very good. No oil pressure gauge, which I want to get working, but I was more concerned about overheating at this point.

More to come I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well, no pix. I'm sure you've all seen an Alfa gearbox... bought the excellent condition Milano gearbox from NMmilano's parts car (for a great price, thanks!). Cleaned it off. Not spotless, I just don't want the hunks of chunky grease **** falling off. LOL. Got the brakes off, got the shift rod off, drained it...ordered a butt load of stuff from Centerline while I'm "in there" (new rear rotors and pads), half shaft boots, blah, blah, blah. Going to use the Afletta wheels and half shafts. Not sure how center donut situation will work out. The plan is to use the rear Milano drive shaft and the Alfetta front drive shaft. I'll certainly try to post pix when that's worked out for any future searchers who are trying to make the same thing work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And Monkey Shift kit from Performatek which I ordered. Just talked to Andy, and he can get Carbotech pads for the front Alfetta brakes. Plan on those too.
 

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I installed the Monkey Shift kit recently and it felt great. For a little while. I made sure I torqued every bolt to correct specs but it has not retained the tightness for very long (a few months). If I was to do it again I would also use Locktite on all nuts as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No, that is not a custom red Alfa gearbox holder...LOL.



I should buy a lottery ticket. I easily changed out this mount.



Wrapped boot in drywall tape and coated with black silicone. We'll see if it holds up. Meh, it's a track car...




Given advice to reinforce with bolt for racing. Used 5/16" hole for eventual 1/4" semi-loose bolts.



Working in a one car garage. Do I wanna schlep those wheels to the shed in the back yard? Nah!



Tailgate bump stops since I'm not using the molding. Sheet metal screw, electrical conduit, furniture foot and fender washer. Home made prop rod too. Hey, a broom stick would be tacky. LOL.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: My last post. Bought $5 worth of Lotto. Won $12. Well, I guess that bushing isn't that difficult to change. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alternator cooling duct: I've seen some folks ask about these. No pic, but I picked up a generic flexible coolant hose with a 1.75" ID (18" long) at NAPA that'll work. Costs $25+/-, and way more robust than necessary, but it's a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Take apart, put together, take apart, put together. A lot closer to the replacement gearbox. Milano gearbox into the Alfetta. Cleaned it up and Rustoleumed while I was there. Didn't bother to change the half shaft boots, or shift pin bolt. They looked good, so I'll save what I bought for when they need to be changed...or I'm doing something else where they're more easily changed. I didn't want to start removing wheel bearings, bell housing...It's all Alfetta except the gearbox. Changed to the three spoked yoke that the Alfetta donut attaches to. Anyway, still have to make shift rod work. Once this is going, the car was already tracked once, so HOPEFULLY, a paint job and personal safety gear means I can race it in March. For me racing, is basically HPDE with passing (err, being passed) in the corners. LOL.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ha, ha! Depends on the car I suppose. We used to have a vintage Mustang, prolly could out corner him. Some of the others?

N
 

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I too switched out the alfetta trans for a Milano. The shift lever bolt connection has about a 1/4 inch play on both sides due to the larger width of the Milano shift bar back to the trans. I was just going to put in some cut to size plastic Teflon spacers and washers unless there is some already tried and true method that exists?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I haven't gotten that far yet. I've gotten pretty good with my welder, and have both shift rods, so The plan for now is to mix and match. Your idea sounds reasonable though.

PS: Maybe using brass instead would make it "tighter"?
 

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Shift linkage

I haven't gotten that far yet. I've gotten pretty good with my welder, and have both shift rods, so The plan for now is to mix and match. Your idea sounds reasonable though.

PS: Maybe using brass instead would make it "tighter"?
Or just change the shift shaft in the transaxle to the Alfetta one. Changing the shift shaft is less then an hour job.
 
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