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PROGRESS!

27K views 149 replies 17 participants last post by  andreas 
#1 · (Edited)
‘74 GTV PROGRESS! Sympathetic “refreshtoration”

Excellent progress this weekend on the ‘74 GTV, total of about 16 hrs. New wood on dash and console, new chrome on armrests, finished installing carpet, new dash side vent hoses, lubed wiper linkage, new chrome wiper blades and gray caps, reinstalled dash and console and hooked everything back up, reinstalled seats. I would have installed gauges and gone for a drive but lost the light. Very pleased, though, not to have any large car parts in the house any longer!
 

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#4 ·
In the beginning....

It all started back in May ..... new to me 1974 GTV, Faggio-ish and tan, Spica, 84k on odo, true mileage unknown but seemed about right. Had been restored probably 10-15 years ago, ex-A/C car so short console. The first pic is one of the car before I bought it—this is the one that didn’t meet reserve on BaT back in January. It looked really good, but had some pinholing rust in the pass side footwell which was my first priority.

After tune up, of course. Plugs, cap and rotor, and new plug wires. @Andrew very kindly gave me some guidance and helped me diagnose a bum thermostatic actuator. I ordered a new one from Wes Ingram (along with new rod end connector things, whatever you call those), and that solved that problem, but led to discovering another—the infamous GAP on the back of the pump body was way way off. Somebody in the past had adjusted the SPICA’s other 5 or so settings to compensate for the bad T/A, and now it was up to me to get it all back in line. That took about 2 weekends to get thoroughly schooled on SPICA, especially reading all the great stuff on the BB from @Roadtrip, and getting it all dialed in. THAT led me to the cold start solenoid being possibly bad—it clicks when I test it, but it still is a bear to start, it’ll get there, but it doesn’t like it. Runs beautifully when warm. Just to make sure it’s all good, I ordered a pump from Wes, too. I am probably another 3 months out....

Also new voltage regulator and alternator—I didn’t have a working charging system!

Then I started really spending money like a drunken sailor: Alfa Parts, Classic Alfa, Alfaholics, OK, and Centerline. New: H4 headlights, amber fog lights, carpet, wood, gas filler flap rubber, gray wiper arm bolt caps, chrome wiper blades, taillights (I had new Euro lenses but the original housings, and two of the studs were broken), door hole bungs, rubber door striker blocks, ignition switch, all firewall grommets, floor bungs, scuttle drain hose, scuttle-to eyeball dash vent hoses, Dynamat, Dynaliner, door card reflector things, armrest chrome strips, I am sure I am forgetting stuff. Basically if it needed it I got it.

Also I got a good used hazard flasher from APE, along with missing light lenses, “DEF”, and “HAZARD”.

My car has a Bosch Spider distributor for some reason. It works fine, as far as I know, but it’s not Marelli, which is what I think was supposed to come on it. Rather than go backwards technology-wise, and at Andy Schank’s recommendation per Ton Sahines, I got a 123 ditstributor with the Bluetooth—havent installed yet, wanted to get the rust dealt with.

Then gauges — mine didn’t work, bulbs out and most importantly speedo and tach were inop. Cables are fine, so def. gauges. Took to Hartmut at Palo Alto Speedo, but with Car Week coming he was/is super backed up. I ordered a spare set from Larry Jr at APE, havent installed yet.

Then seals—I got the fully set from Classic Alfa, along with the 14 piece repro window channel kit—the ones that came on the car were rusty, and I . Haven’t installed all of them yet, but like most people on here, I found the trunk seal and the engine bay seal (the one strip along the top by the latch) to both be too thick. We’ll see how the door eats do—that’s primarily what I need, along with window scrapers—the glass it excellent save for scratched on both door windows from bad scrapers.

I finally turned to the thing that worried me most about the car: the rust. If you see a little, there’s probably more, and I figured I’d just rip off the bandage. I pulled out all the carpet and cleaned it up. It turned out to be a little more than just pinholing, but it was all localized at the floor bung. Other than that, the car is super-clean. Rockers are solid, no filler. Got a new floor pan from Alfa Parts in Berkeley (just stopping by is so convenient), and had it welded in. Better than new, solid as a rock.

More to follow...
 

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#5 · (Edited)
More details of the rust and the repair:
 

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#6 ·
Your GTV Restoration

@GTVragazzo, I am posting in the thread so everyone can see:

“Great job. I'm restoring my GTV interior as well and was wondering where you purchased your Dashboard Veneer kit. I've seen some repos and the color is too dark, but yours looks about right. Also it appears that you had to drill your own hole for one of the switches on the console.
Was that a problem? Finally, did your purchase the plastic chrome edge trim for the center console? I bought some from Classic Alfa but it's too rigid and will not bend correctly. I appreciate and suggestions or tips.

Thanks.
Joe
1974 GTV 2000”

Thanks! It’s fun, actually. The wood veneer is from Classic Alfa, it’s super thin and drilling the fog light switch was tough—I hashed it up, but the switch MOSTLY covers it ;-). But since I did it, not a restorer, I am ok with it.
The chrome trim is also from Classic, and I found that if you pull/stretch it as you’re bending it, it doesn’t kink at all. E.g. put the trim on one of the straight parts of the wood, hold tightly with one had, and then pull and bend around a curve. It’s surprisingly easy to work.
 
#7 ·
Sound deadening

Here are some pics of the dynamat and dynaliner:
 

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#8 ·
Carpet observations

I got the carpet kit from Centerline. It wasn’t cheap and took like 5 weeks to receive. I’ve never done automotive carpet before so I don’t have anything to compare it with, but I will say that it took a lot of customizing to get it to fit decently. The padding is 1” thick batting, and the carpet is thin black nylon loop. You basically have to install all the padding first, trimming as necessary, and then install the carpet on top of the padding. There are no instructions, so I just figured out as I went along, using the BB as a resource for how others had done it. I used 1.5 spray cans of the 3M yellow spray adhesive, that stuff works great.

It looks much better than the non-correct aftermarket tan pile carpet that was in it when I got it. If I had it to do over, I would have gone for black wool loop from somewhere like World Upholstery. But I really wish somebody made a one piece formed kit. That would look so much better.

Here’s a pic of before, a pic of the carpet pre install, and after.
 

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#111 ·
Carpet observations

I got the carpet kit from Centerline. It wasn’t cheap and took like 5 weeks to receive. I’ve never done automotive carpet before so I don’t have anything to compare it with, but I will say that it took a lot of customizing to get it to fit decently. The padding is 1” thick batting, and the carpet is thin black nylon loop. You basically have to install all the padding first, trimming as necessary, and then install the carpet on top of the padding. There are no instructions, so I just figured out as I went along, using the BB as a resource for how others had done it. I used 1.5 spray cans of the 3M yellow spray adhesive, that stuff works great.

It looks much better than the non-correct aftermarket tan pile carpet that was in it when I got it. If I had it to do over, I would have gone for black wool loop from somewhere like World Upholstery. But I really wish somebody made a one piece formed kit. That would look so much better.

Here’s a pic of before, a pic of the carpet pre install, and after.
Any idea where Centerline gets the carpet sets that they sell? It looks part-for-part identical to the one I bought from World Upholstery in 2012.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Wood observations

I got my wood from Classic Alfa (see console and dash pics in first post). It’s nice looking, but extremely thin, with a multi-layer paper backing. The hardest piece to work with was the piece that surrounds the shifter, it’s got two very thin sides to work on. Luckily I didn’t snapped it in half. I did have a problem drilling the hole for the fog light switch, though, but that’s probably my technique. Once everything is installed you can’t see the place where I marred the wood.

Here are pics of the Old wood, exposed side, showing how bleached it was, and the reverse of the old wood, showing the original color. The original wood is a solid piece, not a veneer over cardboard. I may have been able to refinish it, but that’s a whole other kettle of fish.
 

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#10 ·
jthames- thanks for all the great shots and accompanying descriptive test. You answered several questions I had before I could get to a keyboard to ask. Yes, the CA wood veneer kit looks spot on. I'm considering taking that task on this winter, and maybe dynamat too. You obviously work at a pretty fast pace compared to many around here. Your efforts are obvious, the car is looking great!
 
#11 ·
Thanks @Capp, it’s definitely fun when it works. But usually the opposite happens. Case in point, today I installed the new taillights (again from Classic) only to find the reverse lights don’t come on. I swear they did before I started down the “Sure it all does fine as it is but its a new car to me so let’s take everything apart and make it BETTER” road.... But I may be mistaken. There are only 2 wires from the switch (thanks for the wiring diagram @papajam), one to the lights themselves and one to fuse #6, so guessing switch is bad. I remember from my spider you have to basically do a clutch to get to the switch. Grrr.

the parts itself, the repro taillights, are top quality. I put on new gas pedal, and new brake and clutch pads, also from Classic. Felt like a new pair of Nikes.

I installed my “OK” temporary gauges I got a month ago from APE. They’re not OK at all, speedo doesn’t work and tach is SUPER loud. Gotta send back. Still waiting on Palo Alto Speedo.....

BUT I started it for the first time in like 6 weeks, cranked right up, only like 5 tries which considering the cold start issue, is AWESOME. I had a fantastic test drive down to Wildcat canyon, then down Grizzly Peak to Shasta Rd, and then back up Wildcat to home. Bay Area in general, and Berkeley in particular, has so many beautiful roads.

Oh, I didn’t mention I got new tires also. The car came with very high quality repro Cromodoras, but super old Pirelli P4000s. I got 195/65R-14 Vredestein Sportrac 5 SLs from Tire Rack, $88 each, and the best part is that they’re disegno di Giugiario, I kid you not.
 
#12 ·
Dunno about cars as late as 74, but the earlier cars' reverse lights only came on with the headlights - ie, they were powered only when night time came and you switched the lights on, so you could see when you were going backwards.
Check that possibility before you pull things apart.
 
#13 ·
Nice work! I also have that carpet and it left a lot to be desired. The edging on the drivers side is already coming off where my left foot is and the fit could have been better. I was hoping with time it might settle in and to some extent it did but still.... I was hoping for a little more. The chrome wipers are great until the sun reflects off them into your eyes, (don't ask me how it know :) ).
On the veneer I cut out the bits using 20 ga sheetmetal (the same as used for rust repair patches) and then got PSA backed veneer and stained and sealed it. The best thing about that is it is the perfect thickness for the edging to fit around it. Also there are hundreds of types of wood to choose from. The first one I did was at least six years ago and still looks good. I hope you get your pump back from Wes in the time you are expecting. I got into the queue on 31 Aug of last year and got the pump back in early March of this year. He's really backed up and it's just Wes and Herb with Wes doing the motors and Herb doing the pumps. My GTV is also the Dutch Blue AR343 with the light beige interior and to my mind it doesn't get any better than that. Looks like you have a really solid car and congrats!
 
#15 ·
Thanks @gigem, the carpet is the weak like I think for GTVs. I am planning on doing leather seats and door cards, but not until the winter/next year (budgets and all), I will ask if the upholstery shop (Sid’s in Mountain View is supposed to be tops) can also sew me a custom carpet. It wouldn’t be form-fitted but it’d be closer than the multi-piece kits, certainly with out the overlaps and seams. And they could reuse the padding from the Centerline kit. That’d be $$ well-spent, as far as I am concerned. The interior’s where you spend your time, after all.

I’d love something like Audi put in the 1st. Gen TTs, a loop carpet with larger loops. I know that wouldn’t be correct, but as an ex-A/C car somewhat “converted” to non-A/C (battery moved to front, A/C removed etc., console modified to have both wiper and fan switches) it isn’t ever going to be a Concours car. GTV Outlaw, anyone?
 
#16 ·
New long console!

Today was productive, also. I made a trip out to Acampo to see the Dickmans and get some stuff. Primary was 2 roll up door windows—mine had pretty deep scratches from the old, bad scrapers. Got 2 really nice ones.

Got a period jack, but alas no tool kit.

No fan switch with the fan on it—will order a repro.

The surprise find was an actually pretty nice long console—I know I just redid my short a/c console, but it isn’t structurally solid (cross-bracing broken/gone), plus you can see wires out the back. I’m going to take the wood and gaiter off the short and transfer to the long. The vinyl even is/may be presentable. Here’s pics—note the off-white stuff stapled to the ski slope part of it—looks like you’re supposed glue the wood to it to keep the wood at the right angle? Also, the paisano who made this one at least didn’t wrap the vinyl all the way around.
 

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#17 ·
New manufacture aluminum door seal channels

Also a few words about the new-made al-you-minium window seal channels available from the usual stockists—they are really nice, well shaped, etc. They don’t line up perfectly to my car, so I had to drill some (not all) new holes in the channels to match the holes already in my car. BUT AL is easy to drill so all good.

Can someone offer any intel on what screw is supposed to go in the channels? You’d think steel, but that would mean I need a sacrificial anode to offset corrosion. Also re size, they seem to be all over the place, and I’d have expected them to be counter-sunk flat heads, not domed heads.

Thanks!
 
#18 ·
I got my screws from McCarr, stainless panhead #2 I think but don't quote me on that. Alfa Service in Germany offers the screws but the ones I got were way to small. The head of the screw is not an issue in the fitment of the weather stripping. You may not need to but I moved the top and vertical channel out a few mm at the top rear of the window so the glass would seal better against the weather stripping.
 
#20 ·
gigem75 is correct about the panheads. And I would use SS screws for all the interior trim. Don’t forget to use strip caulking between the channel and body. I would attach the channel inboard as much as possible to prevent any door closing issues and adjust the window to seal fitment with the guide rail adjustment inside door.

BTW, I hope these ratio-repairs are items that you were aware of when you had the PPI and before buying the car.

Hope to see you out there soon.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thanks @bellagt and @gigem75, will do.

Re the repairs, I was aware of the p/s floor rust (photos earlier in the thread) and the bad door seals, and those were the two things I knew I had to do. Other than those, the body is in fantastic shape, and shows no signs of ever having been hit or repaired. Likewise, the running gear is also great — I have never shifted a 105 with a better 2nd gear. Per my title search with the State of New York (I have a NY state license plate for the car), the car came out of the collection of architect Costas Condylis, and it shows. He had his cars, including a couple Ferraris, in his house in the Hamptons. https://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/06/realestate/costas-kondylis.html
https://therealdeal.com/closings/costas-kondylis/
https://hamptons.curbed.com/2012/12...-architect-asks-3-8m-for-his-southampton-barn.
He just died yesterday, actually. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/24/obituaries/costas-kondylis-dead.html.

My “new” Wes SPICA pump came from my having known of Wes for 15 years and it occurring to me that he won’t be doing this forever, and so I ought to get one while I can. It’s not necessary at all, it’s just something I want to do, and I’m fortunate that I can.

Most of the rest of this came out of my stripping the interior to get to the p/s rust and to make sure there weren’t any other surprises in there. They’re all things I simply wanted to do/change. My thinking was along the lines of “Well, if I have to reinstall the old carpet, why not put in the sound deadening and nice, new carpets?” Same for the dash and console, vent hoses, etc etc. If I had to order X from Classic or get Y from APE, why not also get Z, A, B, and C while I am at it? When I got the car, it already looked very good, but when am done the interior will be cosmetically and functionally excellent, and I’ll be a very happy camper.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I somehow managed to get Andy Schank to do it, along with some other stuff. He took pity on me, I guess, lol. He went over the car and said basically that and a silver-dollar sized spot in the p/s fender (not the rocker) directly behind the p/s front jack point were the only repairs needed. I caught him in between other massive jobs, which was lucky for me. He also strengthened the steering box mount to the d/s fenderwell, typical age-related flex. Big washers, didn’t need to weld anything.

Part of a good repair is a good replacement panel—the floor pan I got was from Jon Norman, very nice, heavy steel. Probably better quality than original. He said he got it from a supplier in UK. Interestingly, GTV and Spider share same floorpans.

Did you do the floor repair yourself? Or, did you find someone to help you with it? It looks well done!
 

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#24 ·
The Cincognani door seals, which I got from Classic, are stiff and thick, not to mention too short. I ordered a set from Centerline, and while I haven’t installed yet, the “foot” is appreciably softer, and the “bulb” thinner and more flexible, than the Cincognanis. Interesting that the batches differ so much! I’ll report back re installation.
 
#25 ·
Door seal observations



Got my 3-M strip caulk from Amazon this week, so today I removed my door seal channels. BTW, they are the repros from CA, very nice, most of the holes lined up great. Then I strip-caulked everything and reinstalled. I had forgotten the trick I learned in High School using strip caulk—put it in the freezer!! Dang that stuff is sticky.

Then I excitedly began installing the new Centerline seals, about which I had remarked that they were softer and more pliable. Well, the Centerline seals may be softer, etc., but the size of the foot is WAY too thick for my channels! There’s NO way they could ‘snap’ in. So they’re going back.

So back on with the Cincognanis. I think (but ran out of time to investigate) that they’re going to be ok. The front shut line is fine, but the rear is out about 1/4”. Pics attached This isn’t b/c of the seals, though, I think — it’s b/c of the door striker/latch/hinge adjustment. That’s what I think won’t let me push it in further, not rubber compression. Also, I don’t really have to slam it that hard. So I am hoping I can loosen the striker/latch and get it to shut. Will report week after next— I have to go to Chicago on Thursday for the weekend, tough life.
 

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#26 ·
How does the door latch with the window down and the seal installed? If the door latches ok with the window down, but not up, the window may need to be adjusted.

How does the door latch without the seal installed? If it latches ok without the seal, then it’s not a latch adjustment issue.

If the door isn’t aligned and closing properly before installing the seal, it will never do so after installing it.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Thanks—It does the same with and without the window up. It’s definitely not the window. The door lines up and opens/shuts perfectly without the seal, BUT it didn’t have ANY seals when I got it, so who knows.

When I shut it, after it hits the 1st latch it just STOPS, like when you accidentally shut the seatbelt end in the door. That’s why I am hopeful it’s the latch, but maybe I am too optimistic. Hmmm.
 
#27 ·
BTW, the door latch is commonly adjusted by loosening the nut that secures the inside handle that opens/closes the door. The handle can then slide forward (extending the throw) or rear wards (shortening the throw). Extending the throw will raise the latching height of the mechanism on the door, shortening it will lower it. If it’s too low, the door tends to latch on only the first safety catch (and doesn’t close all the way). Raising it may improve the latching to the second catch, but only if there aren’t any other alignment or closure issues.
 
#34 ·
Thanks! They are std bulbs. PAS did a great job, but you’d hope so for $750!!

I had a great drive around Berkeley environs yesterday, the more I use the car, the better the car works. Still need to sort out the door seals and channels, though.
 
#35 ·
Also, all, Two other questions.

1) I know that the fuel pressure light is supposed to come on briefly when you turn the key on (before start); is it supposed to go off after literally half a second? Mine comes on and “click!” goes off. Is that how it’s supposed to work? Never had a SPICA car before this one.

2) my brake lights work, but my park/ tail lights are much brighter, Such that it’s hard to even see when the brakes are applied. The light comes on and you can see it if you’re looking for it, but the park lights are the bright ones. It seems to me that possibly something is reversed? I would love to reverse the wires, seems safer that way. Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks as always!
 
#38 ·
I doubt that. The brake lights are always the brighter ones as are the turn signal filaments. The LFP light going out quickly is a good sign the fuel pump and filters are healthy so that's good.
 
#40 ·
Regarding the door seal channels, I too have the alum repros and ovaled the holes in them with a file/dremel in order to get them to sit closer to the body. I still don't have the doors shutting perfectly but i believe it helped
 
#42 · (Edited)
Thanks, Mine (at lease the lower b pillar ones) actually need bending to match the curve of the body line and not interfere with the latch mechanism. It’s not my car b/c both sides are equally off. Pic attached, you can see the gap between the body seam and the channel at the striker area, but the top and bottom of that channel are tight up against the seam. That’s why I say I need to bend the repro channels.
 

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