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Excellent description thank you! This was exactly as described a small slot in the tamperproof bolt with a Dremel followed by a screwdriver. Details here in case they help anyone else.

IMG_6265.jpg IMG_6267.jpg IMG_6270.jpg IMG_6269.jpg

Can you look at the bolt at the splines for me and see if its tight against the column support or not. Mine is not: IMG_6272.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Excellent description thank you! This was exactly as described a small slot in the tamperproof bolt with a Dremel followed by a screwdriver. Details here in case they help anyone else.
Awesome!

Can you look at the bolt at the splines for me and see if its tight against the column support or not. Mine is not: View attachment 1567074
I can’t—raining outside and cars under a cover in the driveway, but I recall from yesterday that mine IS up against the column support. Maybe there’s some adjustment you can make there?
 

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I wonder if you recall if the brass bushing was snug to the shaft or if it had any play?

The rubber on my bushing looks very healthy to me, there is no play in the inner to outer sleeve. however when I check the inside diameter of the inner brass sleeve (.795”) it is larger than the outside diameter where it rides on the shaft (.785”) I noticed that the shaft has a smaller diameter where the bushing rides (see pencil) I wonder if you recall of the same on yours? I do not think it could have self machined in such a fashion but I don’t have anything to compare to.

Struggling to troubleshoot this - maybe the rubber compacted even tho it did not visibly deteriorate or separate?

IMG_6407.jpg IMG_6408.jpg IMG_6409.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #104
I wonder if you recall if the brass bushing was snug to the shaft or if it had any play?

The rubber on my bushing looks very healthy to me, there is no play in the inner to outer sleeve. however when I check the inside diameter of the inner brass sleeve (.795”) it is larger than the outside diameter where it rides on the shaft (.785”) I noticed that the shaft has a smaller diameter where the bushing rides (see pencil) I wonder if you recall of the same on yours? I do not think it could have self machined in such a fashion but I don’t have anything to compare to.

Struggling to troubleshoot this - maybe the rubber compacted even tho it did not visibly deteriorate or separate?

View attachment 1567824 View attachment 1567826 View attachment 1567828
Hi @r-mm, yes, mine is same. The shaft is ever so slightly smaller right there, not sure why. It didn’t “self-machine”, it’s just smaller. I think that the rubber, though it looks good, must have compressed over the past 4 decades. I put a turn or two of teflon tape around the shaft to take out that slack, but not enough to interfere with the steering action.
 

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Thanks Jonathan. And apologies for hijacking your thread. I suppose I remain as confused as ever. Unsolved Mysteries include:

1. What does the pinch bolt do, seeing as the OD of the brass bushing appears a mild interference fit on both of my steering columns?

2. If the ID of the brass bushing is meant to be a mild interference or at least tight fit where it rides the shaft (and that is a presumption apropos of no information) then it means its a hell of an interference fit as it is installed along the larger diameter portion of the shaft. I used a decent amount of force to remove it and that's presuming it has shrunken.

3. Why is the inner split ring steel? Presuming (again, total lack of knowledge) that the steering shaft rotates in the ID, it seems odd to have a steel on steel bearing. Seems equally odd to have the OD of the brass rotate in the cast alum housing.

One thing I *think* I now understand is that the female splines on the shaft are split so that the collar nut compresses them. This suggests to me that axial movement is NOT expected (but only allowed in the even of a collision?)

Mysteries!
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Thanks Jonathan. And apologies for hijacking your thread. I suppose I remain as confused as ever. Unsolved Mysteries include:

1. What does the pinch bolt do, seeing as the OD of the brass bushing appears a mild interference fit on both of my steering columns?

2. If the ID of the brass bushing is meant to be a mild interference or at least tight fit where it rides the shaft (and that is a presumption apropos of no information) then it means its a hell of an interference fit as it is installed along the larger diameter portion of the shaft. I used a decent amount of force to remove it and that's presuming it has shrunken.

3. Why is the inner split ring steel? Presuming (again, total lack of knowledge) that the steering shaft rotates in the ID, it seems odd to have a steel on steel bearing. Seems equally odd to have the OD of the brass rotate in the cast alum housing.

One thing I *think* I now understand is that the female splines on the shaft are split so that the collar nut compresses them. This suggests to me that axial movement is NOT expected (but only allowed in the even of a collision?)

Mysteries!
No worries, I am equally unsure as to the answers to all of those, and would love to know. Mine was plenty snug when removing/reinstalling on the larger dia. part of the shaft, but it was a bit loose on the smaller dia., hence the tape.

Good to know about the splines!

I wonder, can @admin copy (not cut) the relevant posts from this thread and create a new one called something like “Steering Column Support Tube Crack and Repair”? Maybe more generally accessible that way? But I’ll defer.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
And update on the speedo—Tom Sahines checked out on his calibration bench and it’s all good—saved me the 2 hr round trip from Milpitas to Palo Alto. SO WHY DOES THE SPEEDO NOT READ IN THE CAR????? That the odometer and trip odo work in the car tends to indicate that the gear in the trans housing and the cable are fine. It’s a new cable, purchased the old fashioned way—walk-in at Alfa Parts on 4th St. Any ideas??? Thanks.
Answer turned out to be to pull a little more cable out of the sheath before reinstalling the speedo—it worked perfectly yesterday!
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Door seal fitment issues

And more on my passenger side door adjustment. I have the new repro aluminum window seal channels and Cincognani door seals from Classic Alfa. I also rebuilt the top hinges (kit from Classic) to take care of any sagging. Driver’s door is beautiful. However, I have been having trouble getting the passenger door to line up right. No evidence of body damage or repairs, but at some point in the past the door was removed in a resto and wasn’t put back on correctly. When I got the car it didn’t have door seals at all, and when I got the new channels and seals, I understood why it didn’t have seals! So I’ve been playing with it from time to time, to get it right. I’ve gotten close, but no cigar.

I took it to an old-school body guru in Richmond on Tuesday. He took off the seal and seal channel on the B pillar below the window and adjusted the door striker substantially inward and a little down, and also twisted the door—he put a 4” piece of wood between the door and the body at the rear top edge of the door, laid down on the ground, and pushed on the lower corner with his foot, a number of short pulses. It was just about a perfect shut line.

In putting the channel back on, he had to bend the channel to wedge it in at the striker—the pre-formed bend in the reproduction channel was we think what was interfering with putting the striker where it needed to be. So he bend the lip where it met the striker, and I put the seal back on. It shuts great, but still looks like the striker could go in about 1/8” more. He recommended I live with it for a while and see whether/how much the Cincognani seal compresses before he does more. All in 1.5 hours. Experience really shows. Pro tip? Find a 70 year old body guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Been a bit lax in posting lately! Just rebuilt the driveshaft to eliminate any possibility of vibrations From the shaft or any of the bearings or u joints. Before
1610535


And after:

1610544


Also I had a crack in my 1-4 manifold and rather than spend $$ to weld up, I spent a similar amount of 2 new manfolds from Classic, and got them ceramic coated at a place in South San Francisco:

1610547


I need to quit fixing and start driving....
 

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Carpet observations

I got the carpet kit from Centerline. It wasn’t cheap and took like 5 weeks to receive. I’ve never done automotive carpet before so I don’t have anything to compare it with, but I will say that it took a lot of customizing to get it to fit decently. The padding is 1” thick batting, and the carpet is thin black nylon loop. You basically have to install all the padding first, trimming as necessary, and then install the carpet on top of the padding. There are no instructions, so I just figured out as I went along, using the BB as a resource for how others had done it. I used 1.5 spray cans of the 3M yellow spray adhesive, that stuff works great.

It looks much better than the non-correct aftermarket tan pile carpet that was in it when I got it. If I had it to do over, I would have gone for black wool loop from somewhere like World Upholstery. But I really wish somebody made a one piece formed kit. That would look so much better.

Here’s a pic of before, a pic of the carpet pre install, and after.
Any idea where Centerline gets the carpet sets that they sell? It looks part-for-part identical to the one I bought from World Upholstery in 2012.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Any idea where Centerline gets the carpet sets that they sell? It looks part-for-part identical to the one I bought from World Upholstery in 2012.
I for one don’t have a clue. I’ll say that it’s held up well so far, but still not my fave. I recently got a trunk carpet kit from Classic (I know, rubber original, but it’s my car and I want carpet), and it is REALLY nice. So if I had it to do over re the interior carpet, I might go with Classic, which is my fave supplier.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Also re my lock mechanism, I can figure out an appropriate wire, but if anybody has specific experience with the right size of grommets???
 

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Discussion Starter #115
The linkage might be salvageable. It’s pretty malleable steel and will bend back easily.

These grommets might be a suitable replacement.
Thanks Ken, those look good! And one leg of the assembly did bend back, but the problem is that the leg that is supposed to attach to the lever that goes to the inside handle is sheared off.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
And so. WINDOW REGULATOR. Well, that was fun. Getting the cable over the pulleys was easy, did that several times on my Spider years ago. The tough part was getting the cables to run the right way on the drum. You need tension, but not too much tension, or they won't get into the right groove (literally). Also be careful that you don’t wind the cable in such a way that it slips between the drum an the housing and fouls the whole assembly. I did that at one point and spent like 10 min fiddling with it before I figure out that was the problem, and then spent another 10 min removing and sorting things out. But all good now!
 

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Discussion Starter #117
And re my p/s door shuts fantastically now with brand new (repro) hinges from Classic. However I gave in and cut my seal b/c of binding/interference. I am now running only part of a Cincognani repro seal. The seal is just too thick for the lower edge of the door to shut comfortably, no matter how I adjust the striker. The seal currently runs from above the striker on the B pillar all the way around the window and all the way down the A pillar through the curve at the bottom, and terminates about 2“ past the curve, where the bind starts. I am going to try to find some other seal for the remaining area, and will report back if I find something good.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
And re the gas gauge jumping around, it’s totally accurate that it‘s WAY less bouncy most of the time if you make sure to orient the float as close to 90 degrees off front to back. If the gas tank orifice is a clock face as you look at it standing behind the car with the front of the car at 1200 and the rear at 0600, rotate the assembly to position the float at either 0300 or 0900, whichever gives you less interference. It’ll still bounce, but only after sharp turns, and not just going down the road.

Also, is the low fuel light really dim on everyone’s car, or do I just need a brighter bulb?
 

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Also, is the low fuel light really dim on everyone’s car, or do I just need a brighter bulb?
Check your bulb contacts and dash grounds if you haven't done so. I've never had an issue with the brightness of the low fuel warning light. The headlight indicator is another story...
 

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And re my p/s door shuts fantastically now with brand new (repro) hinges from Classic. However I gave in and cut my seal b/c of binding/interference. I am now running only part of a Cincognani repro seal. The SPACE is likely too SMALL for the seal for the lower edge of the door to shut comfortably, no matter how I adjust the striker. The seal currently runs from above the striker on the B pillar all the way around the window and all the way down the A pillar through the curve at the bottom, and terminates about 2“ past the curve, where the bind starts. I am going to try to find some other seal for the remaining area, and will report back if I find something good.
Provided a possible alternative for your sentence :). This may not be the seals fault.

Has the bottom of your door been repaired, or sill/rocker panel been replaced (if installed too high you will have your problem, but hopefully a door repair issue as easier to fix)? This thread may hopefully help you: GT/GTV door seal, fit issues
Pete
 
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