Alfa Romeo Forums banner

81 - 100 of 143 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
"good" timing. I'm dealing with exactly the same thing. Have found a few threads on this and believe the function of the pinch bolt is to retain the brass/rubber/brass bushing whose function is to isolate the steering column. I am yet unsure if it also functions to retain the columns in/out movement on cars with a universal joint @ the burman box like my car has.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
"good" timing. I'm dealing with exactly the same thing. Have found a few threads on this and believe the function of the pinch bolt is to retain the brass/rubber/brass bushing whose function is to isolate the steering column. I am yet unsure if it also functions to retain the columns in/out movement on cars with a universal joint @ the burman box like my car has.
Thanks, I am sure the BB will come through. I was also reading all the threads, and wonder if I need to replace it. If I do, and I get a used column tube at APE day after tomorrow, can I just pull my broken tube off my column and reinstall? OR does the whole steering box have to come out?

AND where do you get another brass/rubber/brass bushing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
Does you car have the Universal Joint or no?

I'm confused - your column support is clearly cracked but do you know the condition of the column itself and its brass bearing?

From what I have read the brass bushing is NLA, but I would first figure out if it is problematic. Mine does not look to be but the column support certainly is cracked.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
Does you car have the Universal Joint or no?

I'm confused - your column support is clearly cracked but do you know the condition of the column itself and its brass bearing?

From what I have read the brass bushing is NLA, but I would first figure out if it is problematic. Mine does not look to be but the column support certainly is cracked.
It’s a late ‘74, so it has a u joint.

Column is fine.

The brass bushing is what I was trying to tighten when I cracked it, don’t know what condition it’s in, but I did have a little up-down play in the wheel—that’s what led me to tighten that captive nut and bolt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
Interesting, I was trying to cure In-Out (ie, steering wheel gets closer/further to your chest) movement when I cracked the column. I plan on dismantling and having a closer look this week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
Interesting, I was trying to cure In-Out (ie, steering wheel gets closer/further to your chest) movement when I cracked the column. I plan on dismantling and having a closer look this week.
Thanks—yours is a 73 so no U-joint, correct?

I wish I’d just lived with it! I hope someone can enlighten us both.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
I have the UJ (otherwise I wouldn't be able to show you my column like that...)

No claims on originality
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
I have the UJ (otherwise I wouldn't be able to show you my column like that...)

No claims on originality
Good to know—so ought to be simpler than I thought....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
Yes to pull the shaft remove the indicator switch assembly, slack the big (36mm?) nut at the splined connection and pull the steering wheel towards you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
After I hit the wall on the steering on Sunday, I took my gauges apart to clean and polish the lenses. Much better. But my speedo still doesn’t work. Odo and trip odo work (incl. the reset knob), all lights, gauges, and tach work great, but speedo shows nothing. New speedo cable. I need to take them back to Palo Alto Speedo. Any thought, guys?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
Speedometer update/puzzle

And update on the speedo—Tom Sahines checked out on his calibration bench and it’s all good—saved me the 2 hr round trip from Milpitas to Palo Alto. SO WHY DOES THE SPEEDO NOT READ IN THE CAR????? That the odometer and trip odo work in the car tends to indicate that the gear in the trans housing and the cable are fine. It’s a new cable, purchased the old fashioned way—walk-in at Alfa Parts on 4th St. Any ideas??? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #93
Steering column support tube R&R

Got the support tube off the column leaving the column in place. First pull the steering wheel (mine was already off), gauges, column shroud, column switch, and ignition switch (if you don’t have a tamper-proof bolt in there). Then undo the snap ring holding the bushing in at the top of the steering column. Then undo the two bolts holding the column support tube on. Then pull off the tube with brass/rubber bushing and the ‘hat’.

Absolutely easy, and no issues once I figured out there is a snap ring retaining it all in a groove in the column.

There is some (a very little) play in the support bushing and the “hat”—the shaft is slightly narrower right where the assembly sits—so I am going to put something around the shaft to snug it up. The bushing itself seems fine, the pieces are all there and snug, but I guess that the rubber has dried out/compressed slightly over the past 45 years. I could take the bushing apart and replace the rubber with delrin, but I don’t have a milling machine and frankly it’s still in good shape. It’s not like it crumbled and fell apart. It needs not even another mm to shim it snug, so some sort of durable tape to shim it would probably work best.
@r-mm, I don’t think that the pinch bolt retains the bushing, the snap ring is what retains the bushing. As for your fore and aft movement, I can’t see what would allow that.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
All back together

Everything’s back together, better than before, and pretty perfect. No play in steering col, and no clunks!

The steering col body grommet partially pulled out with the steering col articulation, so i unscrewed the clamp thing, and the metal is great!

As you may recall, my car was originally (before I bought it) an a/c car, but p/o stripped it all out and even moved the battery to the front. It came with the short a/c console, and a radio, and some janky wiring. So I got a long console from APE and redid the wood with parts from Classic. But the wiring still bugged me. SO I found an old GTV center console wiring harness on ebay in CT. I plugged it up this afternoon and WOW perfect.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,506 Posts
All back together indeed! I’m surprised you found the replacement steering column housing as quickly as you did, but we’re very lucky in the BayArea to have so many great resources for Alfa parts and services. You’ve done more to your GTV in the past year than I’ve done to mine in over 20 years of ownership. Keep up the good work. Once you’re done (and if it ever stops raining), an East Bay GtV C&C gathering seems in order some weekend morning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
Great work. Compared to what you saw does my set up look original? Specifically I’m wondering if the weld is present in your column. Once the snap ring is removed did the brass bushing require some force so that it could be withdrawn towards the steering wheel (down in my second photo)?

IMG_6250.jpg IMG_6251.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
All back together indeed! I’m surprised you found the replacement steering column housing as quickly as you did, but we’re very lucky in the BayArea to have so many great resources for Alfa parts and services. You’ve done more to your GTV in the past year than I’ve done to mine in over 20 years of ownership. Keep up the good work. Once you’re done (and if it ever stops raining), an East Bay GtV C&C gathering seems in order some weekend morning.
THANKS! Much appreciated. I think I just had more stuff to put back to as stock as I can—yours I am sure is way more stock than mine was when I got it, so you have and know your baseline. I am setting my baseline, and hopefully I won’t have to do anything much to it for 20 years.

And you’re right, we are really fortunate to live here. There’s a lot more word of mouth stuff around than you’d think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
Great work. Compared to what you saw does my set up look original? Specifically I’m wondering if the weld is present in your column. Once the snap ring is removed did the brass bushing require some force so that it could be withdrawn towards the steering wheel (down in my second photo)?

View attachment 1567046 View attachment 1567048
Hey @r-mm, thanks! Yes my col has a joint/weld at about that spot, maybe a designed failure/crumple spot so as not to impale the driver Corvair-style? And yes, yours looks like mine, but no, once the snapring is off, the bushing and the “hat” came off smoothly. The bushing did require a little force to get it over that slight lip before the snap ring, but after that it was just a little snug. You’ll have to remove the steering wheel to get the assembly bushing off.

If your column support tube is cracked, I really suggest calling APE in LODI to get another one. Now that I have been in there, it looks way more structural than I initially thought. The brass bushing is the ONLY point of contact with the car body other than the steering box U joint. I’m no engineer (just a lawyer) so it may be fine, but common sense says that if we both have cracking at the precise location of the only bushing, that’s a stress point.

Also, re the in and out of your column, there’s nothing to move on that portion on the column. The brass bushing may move, but the column shouldn’t be able to. Have you checked the U-joint for play? Maybe the splines at the big nut where the column attaches to the rest of the column? The attachment points for the steering box? Having been in there for a day or so, I can’t think of anything else that could move in and out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,679 Posts
Thanks very much I appreciate this description. I do have another column support however somebody did a job on the ignition switch attachment point. Because the switch itself is retained with the tamperproof fastener it’s not that easy for me to figure out if I could come up with an acceptable way to graft the switch on to this butchered column.

IMG_6254.jpg IMG_6255.jpg

Regarding the in and out movement can you help me understand if the large nut at the splined joint is what would prevent the column moving in and out? In principle I believe that splined joints are used where in and out movement is expected and allowed, such as the driveshaft, and the collar nut is used to prevent the joint from completely separating. As you pointed out the brass bushing is the only place the column is attached to the body therefore I am unsure what else is preventing the steering wheel from moving in and out. Maybe I am wrong and no movement is possible at the splined joint when the nut is fully tightened?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Thanks very much I appreciate this description. I do have another column support however somebody did a job on the ignition switch attachment point. Because the switch itself is retained with the tamperproof fastener it’s not that easy for me to figure out if I could come up with an acceptable way to graft the switch on to this butchered column.
To remove the ignition switch, use a hacksaw or Dremel to cut a groove in the top of the tamperproof bolt and then use a flat blade screwdriver to unscrew. Then get a non-tamperproof bolt of the same size, but match the length of the replacement bolt to the tamper-proof one—if the replacement bolt is too long, it’ll block the action of the switch and you can’t start the car.

As for the butchered “new” tube, the ignition switch can only go in one way, so once you get the bolt situation resolved, maybe you can find some washers or something to fill the gap between the switch and the hole? It doesn’t need to be pretty since it’s covered by the column shroud.

Regarding the in and out movement can you help me understand if the large nut at the splined joint is what would prevent the column moving in and out? In principle I believe that splined joints are used where in and out movement is expected and allowed, such as the driveshaft, and the collar nut is used to prevent the joint from completely separating. As you pointed out the brass bushing is the only place the column is attached to the body therefore I am unsure what else is preventing the steering wheel from moving in and out. Maybe I am wrong and no movement is possible at the splined joint when the nut is fully tightened?
I don’t actually know, I didn’t pull mine apart down there. My assumption is that the splined joint was used there (by the pedals) so you could do steering column stuff without having to remove the entire steering box. My other assumption would be that there’s not supposed to be any in-out play in the column, SO when it’s put back together, the big nut fully tightened, it won’t move. But I don’t know b/c I didn’t get in there. What I do know is that there’s no in-out movement on mine.
 
81 - 100 of 143 Posts
Top