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Can someone please post the step-by-step procedure for changing a water pump and timing belt. I checked the search and came up with nothing (I might not have used the right key-words). I plan to change mine in two weeks and I definitely do not want to try it without the proper instructions. Even though Jason says I can do it, I am really nervous:(. (My timing belt did not break, I need to change the water pump, so I am changing the timing belt also)

Tetteh
 

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Can someone please post the step-by-step procedure for changing a water pump and timing belt. I checked the search and came up with nothing (I might not have used the right key-words). I plan to change mine in two weeks and I definitely do not want to try it without the proper instructions. Even though Jason says I can do it, I am really nervous:(. (My timing belt did not break, I need to change the water pump, so I am changing the timing belt also)

Tetteh
Ahh man... this is going to be a long one. Steve chime in! I will do my best to explain everything, I hope I don't forget anything. I will make this as easy as possible

1. Ok, so start by removing wheel, inner fender plastic. all the plastic timing covers to get to the belt, tensioner and water pump.

2. Next rotate the engine on the crankshaft nut to TDC, There is a pinter ridge on the block next to the crankshaft pulley and a scribe mark on the crankshaft, those need to line up, you need to rotate enough to time up the cam shaft pulleys as well. There are scribed marks on both front and rear cam pulleys. There are no specific marks to line it up with but they need to be visible and not on the bottom of the pulley while the crankshaft is lined up, if that is the case rotate once more and line up the crank and the marks should show on the cam. There is a cam template here or I can e-mail it to you, print it out at 100% and use it to make sure you cam timing is correct.
If not we can explain from that point.

3. Now that we are at TDC, loosen the tensioner, you can use a 3/8's extension in the square lift area to release the tensioner so it does not slam back, even though you should replace it. remove both nuts and washers (make sure washer on adjustable side is thick)

4. Remove Tensioner.

5. Remove belt

6. Remove Water pump Pulley

7. Remove oil pump pulley

8. Drain Coolant

9. Remove upper radiator hose/lower radiator hose/oil coolant lines and two lines to the block.

10. Remove all waterpump bolts and make sure to keep track of where they are located as they are different lengths for certain areas on the pump, Use the new pump and place the bolts in the holes where they belong on the new pump. That way you can keep track. Not hard but for your first time you may need as much help as you can get!;)
Remove the waster pump, thermostat and all in one shot.

11. Remove thermostat and union.

12. Buy some gray sealant for the water pump and thermostat housing. Permatex gray stuff

13. Now I suggest leaving the car over night to let the water kind of dry up so that when you install the pump the water does not get on the gasket and sealant.
You don't have to, if you have compressed air you can blow it through to dry it up.

14. Remove all gasket material on mating surfaces, you can use a razor blade but be super careful not to scratch the surface, use a plastic scraper for most of the job. Make sure it is clean clean clean! Use brake cleaner if you like to finish the job as antifreeze will not allow for the gasket material to seal.

15. At this point you can do the wate rpump to the thermostat union, use the supplied gasket, use the sealant on the water pump mating surface as well as the union and gasket in between. Tighten up and clean excess off.

16. Water pump. add sealant to water pump, dont be shy with the stuff.
Also add it to the block side as well. Add the gasket to the water pump and stick it to the sealant, this will make it easy to install with it stuck to the water pump already.
Use a couple of the bolts to hold the gasket on and aligned!

17. No install the water pump, slowly making sure you get the two block (make sure there is no water in the water jackets) hoses on and then the water pump on. Best way to explain it. You have to go slightly even one you get the hoses on and then the water pump should line up. The hoses should hold the pump on, put the bolts in by hand, then tighten using a cross pattern no more than 6.9ft/lbs. So water pump is on. Leave all the hoses unhooked for the time being.

18. Ok, so now install the timing belt, rear to front. You can remove crankshaft pulley but you don't have to.

This new style tensioner has a temperature sensitive clutching device. It is important that it is only adjusted on a cold engine and when the workshop's ambient air temperature is between 15 and 35 degrees Centigrade (59 and 96 degrees Fahrenheit). Although I have never seen problems adjusting outside of the temp range they specify, so don't worry about.

1. With engine cold and positioned at top dead center (TDC), loosen both tensioner retaining nuts. Use a 3/8 square drive inserted into the lift square (see diagram) of the tensioner along with NEEDLE nos pliers in the two holes seen on the pulley bearing and rotate the assembly counter-clockwise (into the drive belt) until a resistance is felt. Gentle. Use the needle nose and extension in unison to make it very easy on the tensioner.

CAUTION: Do not use excessive force. Torque applied to the lift square must be at least 15 Nm (11 foot pounds) but no greater than 24 Nm (18 foot pounds). Too much force may damage the clutching mechanism.

I typically set tensioner pointer a little below the mark, so that when the motor is at operating temp the pointer will sit right on the mark.

2. Holding the tensioner in this position, lock down the tensioner by tightening the adjustment nut to approximately 20 Nm (15 foot pounds).

3. With tensioner set in this way, rotate the engine clockwise at least four crankshaft revolutions, to seat the belt.

4. On the last revolution, line up the top dead center (TDC) marks.

CAUTION: Do not back up the engine at any time. If you accidentally pass TDC, keep going and bring it around again. Do not back up.

5. After performing steps 3 and 4, hold the tensioner with the 3/8 drive in the lift square. Loosen the adjusting nut and very slowly, let the tensioner back off, until the position indicator pointer (see diagram) is lined up with the nominal reference mark.

CAUTION: Do not let the tensioner back off past the nominal mark or you will have to repeat the entire procedure from the beginning.

6. Tighten the adjustment nut and the tensioner pivot nut to 27 Nm (20 foot pounds).

7. Rotate the engine several more complete revolutions in a clockwise direction. Line up TDC just as you did in step #4. Verify that the position indicator pointer is still lined up with the nominal reference mark. Note: The position indicator pointer will only line up with the nominal reference mark when the engine is exactly on TDC and when the engine is cold.
©1993 ARDONA

I have to run so I may have forgotton something, hope that helps, call me if you need help.

Take your time and think about what you are doing. There may be other methods for water pump but I have found this method to work well, I have 80+K on my water pump with no leaking yet! knock on wood. I have had real success with doing belt this way too. Just a little below the main mark, set to the lower ridge under the mark instead!

Good luck!!
Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes!!!!! That's what I'm talking about!! Thanks guys!!! Jason, you are the man!!! I will definitely call if I have a question! I think I can do this!
 

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Can anyone of the administrators take some initiative and add a new folder to the site where you can have all the technical write-ups, so that people can just go there directly and get the how-to documents easily ??(actually we have like this on our SVX network :))

-Pavan.
 

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Can anyone of the administrators take some initiative and add a new folder to the site where you can have all the technical write-ups, so that people can just go there directly and get the how-to documents easily ??(actually we have like this on our SVX network :))

-Pavan.
I agree 100%. I say get one person from each section that is that sections guru and have them make up a technical section for each car.

timing belt
water pump
steering rack
clutch
etc and so on
Specific Fluids and amounts
Special tools
164 parts suppliers...haha!
Technical service bulletins

But maybe too much work and will never get done unless someone makes one up for the admin to post.
Jason
 

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How about putting a copy of the AR workshop manual on line, it has all that stuff?
Sure but that has copyright issues attached to it.
Plus is like reading something a drunk Italian wrote in the wee hours of the night. Nice details then missing about 3 steps and then put all back together the way you took it off.
The book is just OK IMO.
I think from a techi on here you can get a detail description, short cuts and specifics which the book cannot tell us. Plus tools, part numbers, fluids, sealants whatever you may need.

I think actually the book is a good supplementary to this forum sad to say;)

We can all collabirate and make a FAQ sticky!!!!!

Find all the really detailed posts on All this stuff and have a sticky with all the links straight to it. Sure yes you can search it but this would be so much easier for all of us and it would be right at the top of the Section for newcomers and old to just click to.

I suggest also adding Fluid recommendations and types, fluid capacities, etc..

Yes all in the book but some don't have it, may never buy it and the internet is their source of info.

For example I have a VW jetta VR6, have the Bentley manual CD which is worthless. I can go to this site called vwvortex.com go to the Vr6 12V section and go to a FAQ sticky and get everything I ever wanted to know, easier than looking it up in the manual on CD which most of the 164 owners will have as the books are rare now and the CD is very hard to see and deal with. Plus real world today information about these cars from owners is much better than the manual on most repairs.

Just a thought. If my timing belt post is good enough for everyone we could use it. If it needs more detail I can add to it and we can make it one of the timing belt links.
??
I know it won't happen but maybe simon would think it was a good idea or he may say too much effort?

;)
 

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How about putting a copy of the AR workshop manual on line, it has all that stuff?
AR manual... huh... I am sure most of the members members have the service manual with them. But by DIY, we mean something easy to understand and can be done by any novoice. For example, I do have service manual, but I use it as a reference.

-Pavan
 

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Sure but that has copyright issues attached to it.
Plus is like reading something a drunk Italian wrote in the wee hours of the night. Nice details then missing about 3 steps and then put all back together the way you took it off.
The book is just OK IMO.
I think from a techi on here you can get a detail description, short cuts and specifics which the book cannot tell us. Plus tools, part numbers, fluids, sealants whatever you may need.

I think actually the book is a good supplementary to this forum sad to say;)

We can all collabirate and make a FAQ sticky!!!!!

Find all the really detailed posts on All this stuff and have a sticky with all the links straight to it. Sure yes you can search it but this would be so much easier for all of us and it would be right at the top of the Section for newcomers and old to just click to.

I suggest also adding Fluid recommendations and types, fluid capacities, etc..

Yes all in the book but some don't have it, may never buy it and the internet is their source of info.

For example I have a VW jetta VR6, have the Bentley manual CD which is worthless. I can go to this site called vwvortex.com go to the Vr6 12V section and go to a FAQ sticky and get everything I ever wanted to know, easier than looking it up in the manual on CD which most of the 164 owners will have as the books are rare now and the CD is very hard to see and deal with. Plus real world today information about these cars from owners is much better than the manual on most repairs.

Just a thought. If my timing belt post is good enough for everyone we could use it. If it needs more detail I can add to it and we can make it one of the timing belt links.
??
I know it won't happen but maybe simon would think it was a good idea or he may say too much effort?

;)
Rather than a section with sticky posts, I think a section like this would be helpful. But its just my opinion :) or atleast I am used to it.

-Pavan
 
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