[mgarbinski]

Ok...all hoses & nuts removed as well as the tach cable. After days of saturating with PB Blaster penetrant and tapping, the best I can gently pry apart is all but around where the tach cable housing is. Am I missing something? Do I need to remove the tach 'connection' out of the housing in the water pump. I'm not familiar with this, so all I did was disconnect the cable...Maybe some more patient soaking with penetrating oil?

 

[Bill S]

You shouldn't need to remove the tach gear. Have a look at your replacement water pump and where the mounting holes are and methodically make sure that you've removed the nuts from all those places on the one on your car. I usually have missed at least one of them every time I go to change a water pump. What year is your spider?

Bill

 

[Tifosi]

I'd guess a '76 Veloce myself....

 

[93400e]

Not sure on the the 2 liters, but on the 1750's the water pump don't come off without removing the crankshaft pulley..Check for interferance

hope this helps

George

 

[Bill S]

I'd guess a '76 Veloce myself....

Doh!!! It's well into the PM here on the east coast, if that can be used as an excuse for my lack of reading skills.

Bill

 

[Tifosi]

@ mgarbinski:

93400e is quite correct, the 2L either needs the crank pulley removed, or, two studs removed from the face of the timing chest to allow the pump to swing over the pulley.

Several threads on both methods can be dredged up within this subsection via the search.



@ Bill S:

We'll let it slide this time I guess. (even though I'm in the same timezone as you, AND it's cold outside. hehe)

 

[mgarbinski]

Thanks everyone for assistance.
I was already aware of the possibility of removing the two bottom studs with 'double nuts' (no smart comments! )..or pulley removal - I thought that I'd at least be able to have the pump unit completely free/loose from against the engine before having to get to that point. Hoping not to have that extra step required.

Can anyone tell me if it's normal to have the bottom half of the pump solidly 'bonded' against the engine while the top half is free...Is this still indicative of having to remove studs or pulley?

 

[mgarbinski]

On close inspection, I've found that there is plenty of clearance between the lower portion of the pump housing and the crank pulley to allow some movement of the pump once the nuts & washers were removed from the studs. Even with repeated sprays of penetrating oil, it appears that the stud located between the hose outlets is galled/frozen to the housing.

I'm guessing the pump hadn't been removed since the engine rebuild by PO back in '90.

Any suggestions on freeing this up besides patience & periodic penetrating oil? I attempted to double nut & try to back out the stud- or at least break the seize by back & forth pressure, but the stud is too short & has only one thread to keep the second nut on...doesn't hold.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, you guys are great...this forum is wonderful in its help...I truly appreciate what help I've had in just the brief time I've owned the 76 Spider and have visited this site. Hope to gain enough experience to help others down the road.

 

[Bill S]

Any suggestions on freeing this up besides patience & periodic penetrating oil? .

Maybe tap on the pump housing with a hammer and a wooden dowel to loosen the corrosion?

Bill

 

[Tifosi]

two bottom studs with 'double nuts' (no smart comments!

Like that'll ever happen.

In fact:


Two double nuts on the bottom.... Isn't that a threesome?