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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!
How do I change the pressured fuel lines to rail and to injectors?
They seem to just „stick“ There.
Which fuel line to use? Max 10 bar?
Anything else to consider when changing the fuel lines, injector lines, gaskets?
 

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Make a short length ways cut with a razor blade so that the end of the hose opens up.

10 bar hose is good.
 

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7.5mm metric EFI hose is the correct ID for Alfa L jet cars, the tight fit over the fuel rails and injectors means you won't need hose clamps. 5/16 can be used, it has a slightly larger ID and it will leak slowly under pressure so hose clamps will be needed.
 

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Joe Elwell
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117 Posts
I replaced mine last year, and was surprised to find that they are just press-on fittings, with those little hats seemingly for cosmetics only? I bought the correct hose, cut to correct lengths from Centerline. I tried cutting a length of the same hose (7.5mm) into pieces, and found that the curve in the cut pieces made reassembly more difficult (at least the way I did it).

I started by pulling the plenum (+ AFM, hoses, etc) off, then removed the injectors, because I wanted to replace the injector seals - probably a good idea for you too. If you do this you will drop a few of the injectors bolts into the V between cylinders. Be sure to have a strong magnet-on-a-stick and you'll find those dropped bolts and lots of other treasures long since forgotten!

As Ed says, remove old fuel hoses with lengthwise cut on old hose, and some wrestling - factory even recommends soldering iron to burn away rubber under the 'hat', but I found that not to be necessary).

I then reinstalled injectors without the hoses. Then pressed on the hoses. Then placed fuel rails on top of hoses and tapped into place using a mallet. This is where the perfectly straight hoses from Centerline were a blessing.

So besides the short fuel hoses, the fuel injector seals (also from Centerline), I bought a full kit of replacement vacuum hoses (Alfa Romeo GTV6 Hose kits Auto Parts). Best to get rid of them while you're in there.
 

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Joe Elwell
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117 Posts
Does anybody have the parts numbers for the upper and lower injector seal?
 

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Be careful if you slice the hose with a knife. The shop manual advises using a soldering iron (they translated it as a 'welder') to avoid the possibility of nicking the hose barbs with a knife. The cup washers (#3 'bushing') are not merely cosmetic - they trap the ends of the hose to prevent them from ballooning out. And noting this, there have been reports that hoses with too large an OD don't fit into the cup washers properly.

1615880
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Be careful if you slice the hose with a knife. The shop manual advises using a soldering iron (they translated it as a 'welder') to avoid the possibility of nicking the hose barbs with a knife. The cup washers (#3 'bushing') are not merely cosmetic - they trap the ends of the hose to prevent them from ballooning out. And noting this, there have been reports that hoses with too large an OD don't fit into the cup washers properly.

View attachment 1615880
So also a heat cannon will do it?
 

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Joe Elwell
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So also a heat cannon will do it?
I don't think so. A pencil tipped soldering iron works by burning away the rubber and fibers in the hose - don't think a heat gun would work (but can't hurt to try). I've done this job twice recently, and as I said, I was able to do it (the second time) with judicious use of a sharp knife.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Works fine. A bit of a hassle to get the old filter out.
Soaked it in fuel an reassembled the first one today
IMG_20200316_183641.jpg

IMG_20200304_181304.jpg
 
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