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Okay, I'm a late comer here but back to the idle issue:

If you remove the idle air adjuster screw completely you'll know weather or not you've got an o-ring and washer in there. If you put your thumb over the hole and the engine dies then it's a good bet that the rest of the system is set up okay (assuming it runs good, has good drivability, smooth acceleration and gets about 27 mpg and the idle speed is your only issue).

You can get an o-ring at Ace hardware actually and I've used a short piece of vacuum line before - anything to restrict the amount of air that can get through that main orfice so you can get the correct idle mixture for a good smooth idle around 700 rpm or so. But the OEM o-ring and washer work the best, have the best adjustment "quality" and maintain the setting longer than any jury-rigged setup so eventually you'll want to go that route.
 

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Sniady said:

So I stuck my finger over the hole, and my engine did not die, the revs dropped, but did not die.

What do you think?
Probably means your throttles aren't closed. Start by disconnecting the long rod then disconnect the short rod at the bellcrank. It should line up perfectly with the throttles closed and the bellcrank at the idle stop. If it's too long either your bellcrank stop is out of adjustment or the short rod is out of adjustment. If it lines up good then something else is out of adjustment. Could be the long rod, could be the thermostatic actuator is not giving enough extension. The only real fix for that is replacement and they ain't real cheap. The way to check it is get the engine up to operating temp, shut it off and pull the actuator end off the pump (being careful not to abuse the tube) then measure the extension. Should be around 31 mm or so from base to tip.

Another thing to check is the idle air line to the vapor seperator. If it's disconnected or broken it could be letting enough air in to cause your problem. I'm not sure but it might do that also if it's hooked up to the wrong port on the canister.

Other than that, you need to go through the entire setup procedure from step 1 to ensure that everything's adjusted correctly.

Good luck
 

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...The only problem is that there is constant vacuum on the intake ports(8-10 #) at idle and when I adjust the linkage to close the throttle plates, the car will not idle....
I'm not certain I'm following what you are doing here but if you have a vacuum gauge connected to the idle air inlet on the manifold then it would effectively be blocking the idle air so if you close the throttles the engine would die. That port needs to be open as it's the only source for air at idle.
 

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Okay so at idle you should get virtually nothing there if the throttles are closed, as they should be. If the engine dies then the idle air manifold is blocked. Have you removed the adjuster nipple and looked inside to determine the condition of the o-ring?
 

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So to clarify, you are saying that when the throttles are closed at idle the engine dies but if you crack the throttles it will idle, right?

If that's the case then it indicates the idle air circuit is plugged. Either at the distribution manifold, the hoses or the throttle nipples.
 
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