[KennyG]

Recently the driver's side power window cable slipped off its trolley and jammed. I got the mechanism out of the door where I could work on it and have the section from Car Disk printed out so I can see what it should look like, but just couldn't untangle the cable. Nothing is broken or mangled, but couldn't find a way to get it back right. Search turned up an excellent link from John Paradiso that I remembered visiting a long time ago:

http://home.wanadoo.nl/hans.siemensma/en-ar-repair.htm

Alas, the page no longer exists! Google has a cache of the text, which I downloaded, so i was wondering if John or anyone else ever saved the pix from this file. Anything that would help would be much appreciated!

 

[Tifosi]

This of use?

 

[KennyG]

Thanks, Tifosi, it's clearer than what I printed from the manual.

 

[Stan Murray]

You can replace the cable. I purchased a spool of cable at Granger. I used the old one to measure the new one. I used the cremp on electrical connector end pieces to create the ends . They pinch on after the cable is fed through the spool. Of course you cut off the actual electrical connector and just use the cremping part. It is so frustrating to try to put a bent cable back on the pully system. It will drive you nuts. I use cable ties to hold the cable on the spool while putting the winder back in the car. Once I get all but the last pulley on, I cut the ties and fit the last pulley. Cranking down on the adjuster at the bottom. There is also one slideing pulley at the top.

 

[KennyG]

Thanks!

Stan, thanks, I'll try it. The only other alternative I've found is the new-style cable-less system from Vick Autosports or Spider Point in Germany. Vick wants $325 plus shipping for one side and they're out of stock with a 2 month wait.

 

[Stan Murray]

That would be interesting to see what that looks like. All systems have a weak link. It amazes me how well the cable system works until it goes bad.

The trick is to figure it out. Once you figure out how it works then you come up with the best book of tricks on how you do it. Trial and error. I like the idea of having a big spool of replacement cable, because once you kink the cable you might as well replace it. Winding the cable on the spool in both directions using up all the spoolwith the cable coming out the middle. Then cable tie it together. right at the spool to keep it on the spool tight.
Once mounting the spool to the motor you have to make sure the direction of the cable as it winds off. A good thing to do is mark the spool mounting and motor as to where the cable comes in and out.
Once you learn one, you could do 50 in a row like clock work. It is just learning the trick on the first one that is difficult. IF you want to do it right, you will clean the old grease out of the gearing and replace it with new grease. The grease gets hard and causes the motor to strain and burn out.

 

[KennyG]

Thanks again, Stan, at those prices it's sure worth a shot, especially when the motor's OK.

 

[iracema1]

Hi Kenny:
what did you finally decide to do? I have a VERY slow passenger-side window, but as long as it rolls-up I don't want to fix what aint broke. BTW, do SLOW-operating windows typically mean motors on last legs or cable lubrication issues?
Thanks
Andy

 

[thmoto]

Trouble finding cable-less system

Stan, thanks, I'll try it. The only other alternative I've found is the new-style cable-less system from Vick Autosports or Spider Point in Germany. Vick wants $325 plus shipping for one side and they're out of stock with a 2 month wait.

Hello,

I have been looking for the cable-less system and I am not able to locate it from either site. Can you help me with a part # please. Thank you

Tom Hirsch

 

[mflugel]

Many times a slow operating window maens that it is not getting enough voltage. Clean all electrical connections and you may be pleasantly surpirsed how much faster the motor is when it gets the full shot of juice.

 

[iracema1]

Funny thing, when I rolled-down my window last night (toll booth), it made a "click click" sound at the bottom, and when I rolled it up again, I didn't reach full height, but stopped two inches below that point. Could it have "jumped a gear" or something? Anyway, motors and connections are good so hoping this is simple...
Thanks
Andy
P.S. John Paradiso article is no longer available, does anyone else have a link?

 

[Jessica]

Hey everybody, the passenger side power window cord broke on my 86 spider. I have the panels removed, and the electric components removed. I have taken apart the spool. I was wondering what gauge the wire is, can i get this from an auto store, and can i get the end clamps there also. Any other tips would be helpful as my manual doesn't go into too much detail.


thanks,


Gil

 

[spidryell]

Kenny,
When I worked on mine, the cable came loose around the motor drum when the cable came off of one of the pulleys. I think that may be where you are having the difficulty with the cable. I found that working with some styrofom blocks wedged into the drum to hold the cable in place as I wound it back into the grooves worked well - thank to a previous post. Start where the cable goes into the drum and wind it into the groove. As I recall it needs to get wound from both ends. The cable has a memory so it wants to flop around and the blocks help you hold it in place sort of like extra hands. Keep them in place until the cable is routed around the pulleys and has tension keeping it in place. As long as you haven't removed the cable ends I think you will find it winds up OK. Hope this helps.