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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Post Season Race Motor Tear Down

My race motor has 34 hard hours on it so I decided to tear it apart and check the bearings and reseal it. I opened it up and to my delight everything was still very good! One of the bearings was showing slight wear, but nothing I should have worried about any time soon. I checked the valve clearances as well and they were still right on the money as well. The next step is to send the crank out to get polished, order new rings, throw some new bearings in her, complete valve job, and a new engine gasket set. I'll hopefully have it back together in a couple weeks. I'll try shoot pics of the crank and a couple other things before I send them out.
 

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Anthony, Thanks for the wonderful shots of a trusted hard working old friend.
May all your motors work out so well.
Thanks and Happy Hollidays
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nothing real special...

If you have the right machine shops do the work, assemble it right, maintain it correctly, and don't abuse it things will last you a while. Yeah there are quite a few expensive parts in there. I was surpirsed how much I had in it once it was done, but hey, that's what it takes I guess.
 

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Hi Anthony,
Thanks for this great thread! And Happy Holidays to you and yours.
I have a question. Is the engine stand that is seen in these pictures of the type that your Dad's shop uses? I was told that I need to use the motor mounts to hold the engine as holding it as you are can allow it to crack. I am sure that the shop and you know what you are doing but would like a definite statement to show my friend.
Ray C
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Eliseo, email me about the belt. I got a few questions for you too.

Mr. C., yest that engine stand in in our shop. Never had a problem breaking. Also, we don't leave ending on stands for too long. We throw them up there when we are ready to build and go at it right away. After they are done, they either go in a car or on a floor engine stand. Our engine stands are all over 10 years old, no problems.
 

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Anthony,

I saw the thread again and have some more questions:

How do you track engine hours?

Is it imperative to use the Alfa head removing tool? If so where can I get one?

I have to change my block because when torueing the head one of the bolts keept spining........I have a loose rod, what do you recomend I change once I have the engine appart?

What do you need to know about the belt?

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ECARRILLO said:
Anthony,

I saw the thread again and have some more questions:

How do you track engine hours?

Is it imperative to use the Alfa head removing tool? If so where can I get one?

I have to change my block because when torueing the head one of the bolts keept spining........I have a loose rod, what do you recomend I change once I have the engine appart?

What do you need to know about the belt?

Thanks,
I have an hour gauge in the car.

When the head is stuck, it's the safest way to get one off. I took it from my dad's tool box. He's had it for a long time. Your best bet is to keep an eye on eBay.

You mean you have a loose head stud? You can get that fixed, no need to get a whole new block. To fix it, you are going to have to strip the block and send it to a machine shop. They can remove it and install a new one for you.

Once you have the motor apart, send the crank out to get polished, throw in new bearings, and replace the rings. You also might want to have everything re-balanced just to make sure it's still right on....you shouln't have to do this but since it's all apart, why not?

At this point the head is off the car too. This is a good time to re-lap the valves, surface the head, and adjust the valves.

That's basically a summary of what I am doing:

- polish crank
- new bearings
- new rings
- rebalance everything
- lap valves
- surface head
- adjust valves

Next teardown, in addition to what I am doing now, I'll replace valves and guides and do pistons depending how they look.

I still gotta check on that belt for you, the car is in the trailer and a lot of the parts are in the trunk including the belt.
 

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Thanks for the advice. I figured it would be better to have a "new" block done before hand and then just swap things. I will fix the other block and keep as spare.

Thanks,
 
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