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Hi There
Well its been about 5thousand miles since I replaced my last Clutch Pivot Arm and the new one must have developed a cracked weld. Clutch won't disengage till pedal 1" off floor. Pulled back a bit on clutch pedal and it will move without the pivot arm moving. New pin was installed in arm when replaced last time. Can anyone tell me the correct clutch pedal hight in comparsion to the brake pedal. When sitting should they be the same hight or the cluch pedal below the brake pedal hight????
Going to get it rewelded this week but would like to know proper height.

Calvin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank You!

Somewhere between even and around 1/2" lower is about right.

Thank You Very Much!
Will set it to the proper point and get it welded this week. Out of car of course.

Thanks Again!

Calvin
 

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Calvin,

Here's the dimension for welding the clutch pivot arm:



Thank You Very Much!
Will set it to the proper point and get it welded this week. Out of car of course.

Thanks Again!

Calvin
 

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Hi There
Well its been about 5thousand miles since I replaced my last Clutch Pivot Arm and the new one must have developed a cracked weld.
I couldn't help but notice you've replaced a NEW pivot arm after only 5K miles? Calvin, you have other problems lurking in that hydraulic circuit, IMHO.
Pull the short hose running to the slave cylinder, and you may find it is delaminating on the ID, thus acting as an orifice in the line and over-pressuring everything upstream of it. Including the mechanical linkage! I'd replace the hose regardless.

Several of us locally have used re-welded pivot arms successfully. I had mine MIG welded, with a small fillet on the inside of the arm, also, onto the shaft itself. That was 5 or 6 years ago. However, the redesigned pivot arms look awfully good, especially at $60US.
 

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Never thought about the hoses.

I couldn't help but notice you've replaced a NEW pivot arm after only 5K miles? Calvin, you have other problems lurking in that hydraulic circuit, IMHO.
Pull the short hose running to the slave cylinder, and you may find it is delaminating on the ID, thus acting as an orifice in the line and over-pressuring everything upstream of it. Including the mechanical linkage! I'd replace the hose regardless.

Several of us locally have used re-welded pivot arms successfully. I had mine MIG welded, with a small fillet on the inside of the arm, also, onto the shaft itself. That was 5 or 6 years ago. However, the redesigned pivot arms look awfully good, especially at $60US.
Never thought about the hoses. They are old and this is a posibility.
Will also replace them.

Thank You!
 
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