[kpas]

Howdy All,

I'm hoping someone has done the hard work here and had a bright idea of how to mount the VR sensor for a megajolt install on a nord with a mechanical fuel pump.

My 105 GTV (daily driver) has the original block mounted fuel pump and works fine, I'm not too keen on changing it but am struggling to find a way to mount the VR sensor with the pump in place. The installs I have seen are all on US cars or Alfettas where there is no mechanical pump in place.

Thanks in advance.

Kris

 

[slyalfa]

I mounted mine is the spica cover. pointing at the spica pump wheel that runs at cam speed. I ground off one tooth. but if you used a spica pulley and ground off one tooth.
you should be able to run wasted spark no problem. point the VR or gear hall at the pully. if you are limited to a certain number of teeth (I used a VEMS so I can program in any number of teeth) make a small trigger wheel and press in on the spica teeth.
I bet you could drill the front engine cover and put a small sender there. in the metal that acts as a belt cover left side opposite where the spica goes

 

[kpas]

Hi,

Thanks for the response, unfortunately though my car is an Australian 105 (Euro spec) and doesn't run SPICA. Sounds like if it did the install would be much more straightforward.

My issue is that the car runs the original carb fuel pump that is mounted on the timing case cover, so I'm trying to find a way to mount the VR without using the fuel pump mount (the pic attached shows mounting to the fuel pump studs).

My issue is most of the other bolts in the area are on curved surfaces (sump bolts) or obstructed by hoses from the water pump etc.

 

[PSk]

Other side maybe?

Maybe incorporate something in with the alternator mount?
Pete

 

[slyalfa]

that is huge. the trigger wheel does not need to be big. then the sender can hide behind the pulley. look at a toyota v6 there wheel is tiny about the same size as the timing belt pulley. and the whole thing is behind the pulley.

 

[robtechno]

Hi,

Thanks for the response, unfortunately though my car is an Australian 105 (Euro spec) and doesn't run SPICA. Sounds like if it did the install would be much more straightforward.

My issue is that the car runs the original carb fuel pump that is mounted on the timing case cover, so I'm trying to find a way to mount the VR without using the fuel pump mount (the pic attached shows mounting to the fuel pump studs).

My issue is most of the other bolts in the area are on curved surfaces (sump bolts) or obstructed by hoses from the water pump etc.

In my opinion you can only use the two bolts used at the front of the engine. There is no need to go around the block and use the fuel pump bolts as well. There is no force to the trigger sensor, just two cables hanging on.

 

[kpas]

So a quick update.

I had the car up the other day and had a good look underneath. There's quite a bit going on from the other side of the engine (water pump hose paths and alternator) so I'm not sure there's a heap of room to play with from that side of the engine.

As for the front two bolts Rob, I'm not sure which ones you mean? I think the two bolts at the front of the engine in the photo are to hold the VR sensor to the mounting bracket, these dont connect to the block (I think).

Cheers

 

[robtechno]

So a quick update.

As for the front two bolts Rob, I'm not sure which ones you mean? I think the two bolts at the front of the engine in the photo are to hold the VR sensor to the mounting bracket, these dont connect to the block (I think).

Cheers

You are right. But do you need an over engineered, in my opinion, bracket.
The trigger is so light in weight. You can make a trigger stud attached to the sump bolt when you use a longer one. You can also use the pump threads but you have to place the studs for longer ones. Or replace the pumpspacer with the bracket. Make sure you use the same thickness and work around the pump it self. Use some imagination. It can be done.
Good luck

 

[GTV67]

that is huge. the trigger wheel does not need to be big. then the sender can hide behind the pulley. look at a toyota v6 there wheel is tiny about the same size as the timing belt pulley. and the whole thing is behind the pulley.

That's a picture of my installation so allow me to comment.

The wheel is not huge, it's the same size as the aluminum Alfaholics pulley. I just can't see the benefit of it being any smaller than that? The bigger the wheel, the less inaccuracy introduced by any mis-sizing of the teeth. (10 thousandths at 1" diameter is more degrees error than at 3" diameter.

The pulley is aluminum, the wheel is mild steel - so you get a better signal from the wheel since there is zero magnetic effect from the pulley

If the wheel were smaller and behind the pulley, then to centralize the VR sensor on the wheel (which it has to be), the wheel would have to be offset rearwards more than the 1/8" wheel thickness I have - and it won't fit there due to the oilpan sticking forwards into its plane of rotation. I didn't want it in front of the pulley because I wanted a semi-stealth installation. I like that it's partially hidden.

The fuel pump mount (on a euro front cover) is perfect. Easy to make a solid aluminum bracket as in that picture from 1/4" aluminum angle. It needs to be rock solid - hanging it off the alternator mount or the front oilpan studs just wouldn't be rigid enough. I've seen good mounting on the Spica belt cover screws also.

Do you really want to retain the mechanical fuel pump? A nice Bendix pump mounted at the rear of the car is great. Understood if you're looking for originality.

-Richard
Scotts Valley

 

[GTV67]

I think the two bolts at the front of the engine in the photo are to hold the VR sensor to the mounting bracket, these dont connect to the block (I think).

Correct - those two bolts only go through the mounting bracket - nuts behind, the whole thing sits well offset from the block.

If anybody wants more pictures then let me know - but it's in the car now (runs great! - but megajolt not squirt) so tricky angles are harder now.

-Richard