Glad you're enjoying the thread, Gigem. Both my lathe and mill are stand-alone units. I like them, but if I had the space, I'd get bigger machines.Is your mill the one that attaches to the 9.8.5 x 16 bench lathe? I have that lathe and have been thinking about getting one. How do you like it and would you buy another one? I've been able to do so many things with my lathe a mill could do so much more. Thanks for the great documentation of your top notch work!
No, I haven't test-fitted anything yet, Richard. Currently, this is a faith-based project, and there will be praying involved before I wiggle under the car with sliding block pieces in hand. And I'm not even religious. Then again, do you think a pesky issue like obstructive sheet metal would ever stop builders like you and I?Have you test assembled this stuf in the chassis to see if it has clearance for your components behing the diff to clear the chassis box behind the diff?...
I'm curious about this problem with the lowered roll center as well....With the lowered roll center (not a good thing with this or a panhard or watts ) what spring rate are you going to use?
Try impregnated cast nylon color is dark green very tuff but not brittle we use it in offroad racing as suspension bushings on said parts.Thanks, Robert. I think I'm stuck somewhere between "Necessity is the mother of invention" and "Idle hands are a devil's workshop."
I've been reading up on plastics, trying to decide on what to use for the yoke's liners. Acetal (Delrin) is very tough, but UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic is very slippery. A lower coefficient of friction is highly desirable in a sliding block set up, whose weak point was the binding of the bronze block against the yoke's steel wear plates. So I went ahead with slippery UHMW, and if it eventually disintegrates, I'll switch to Delrin.
You're using Nyloil? Interesting. I like its properties, but it's very expensive to get a piece thick enough for a 30 mm wide block. But getting it as cheaper thin sheets for the yoke's wear plates is an idea...Try impregnated cast nylon color is dark green very tuff but not brittle we use it in offroad racing as suspension bushings on said parts.
Hi Alex. I'll have to look into some of those fancy Nylon formulations. My understanding was that some nylons absorb moisture, and being that I'm in the moistest part of the country, the resulting swollen dimensions may be more than what the close tolerances of the sliding block can handle.I've used PETP in the past and this is pretty hard wearing, as well as slippery, but there are other options out there now which are made to specific blends such as this Nylatron. I have always bought small rods and blocks of surplus stock, so I don't know what full retail prices would be nowadays.
BTW, is there not another way of bonding the liner onto the cast aluminium? I don't much like the thought of the heads of the machine screws snagging on the block when the inevitable wear happens.
Great project ..........
Agreed! Using it is a lack of confidence in the mating surfaces, combined with overconfidence that the engine will never need to come apart again.I never use gasket sealant on the inlet manifold of any engine, unless I intend not to run a gasket at all.
Way too much sealant is used on this site, and others, when it is simply not required.
Nope, just a slightly mangled fractional hex. Stupid fractional...Kinda looks like a Torx fastener to me....