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Nice pics. You are a master machinist! Very nice work!! I especially like the front on view of the car. What's with the 393 number????

Sure liked the "good old days" for roll bar rules. Your's would be a foot or more lower! I know, it's safer. Blah, blah, blah.

Thanks for a great thread!

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #482
Thanks for the nice words, Robert.

I, too, am growing tired of the awkward looking cage height. When I first had the cage built, I focused more on safety than aesthetics. Now, I'm actually toying with the idea of carefully cutting out the main hoop, right at the welds where it attaches to the other tubes and the floor, and replacing it with another shorter hoop (rules say that hoop has to be uncut and uninterrupted). It would give me an excuse to buy a plasma cutter and a tubing bender. Maybe in the off-season.

I like the #9, but as a race number it was taken when I started racing Spec Miata over 10 years ago. So I took #39 for that. Then I got into vintage motorcycle racing about 8 years ago, and #39 was taken, so I took #393. It stuck and I carried it over to the car. It's a convenient number because no one else has it and I never have to change it if I race (the bike or car) at other venues with other clubs. And it's a palindrome, which makes things even better. You know what other word is a palindrome? The theme to this entire thread: Racecar. How cool is that? Yeah, okay, not really that cool. Kinda nerdy, actually. Carry on...
 

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...You know what other word is a palindrome? The theme to this entire thread: Racecar. How cool is that? Yeah, okay, not really that cool. Kinda nerdy, actually. Carry on...
Plenty cool! 'Sides, I like nerdy - been that way all my life. I was labeled "gifted" in second grade, was doing orbit calculations for Sputnik at age 8; Ph.D.in physics from Stanford at 21, then 30+ years as a real "rocket scientist". And a Duetto (and a team GTA) racer while I was still in grad school - that's part of why I like this thread so much!

Nothing wrong with nerdy!!

:D

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #484
I shouldn't have blathered on like that without at least including a picture. So here's one from the Historics over the July 4th weekend (the last race I attended). I've mentioned before that the backside of Pacific Raceways International (PRI) is park-like, and I think this picture does a good job showing some of it. This particular section of track is notorious for chewing up cars. Kind of like the Kink at Road America.

I also like how the picture shows my grid position on this pace lap. As both the car and driver have developed over the last few years, I've gradually clawed my way up from the Sprites and Midgets to the TR4s and slower 356s. Just like on that magazine cover on the previous page. I'd say I'm forward/mid-pack. The front pack is still about 3 seconds a lap faster, so I have a ways to go.
 

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Hmmm. Less than half-a-second per turn. You're in the range where getting one turn really really right will make a difference.

Are you on a parade lap? If not (and even if so - you should use these laps to practice the perfect line) you're way too tight on a very late apex. See the tire marks behind you? That's a better line - way outside of where you are. You should be at full throttle and nearly sliding left before where the (Porche?) behind you is. Brake later than you think is safe, turn in firmly but smoothly, and hit full throttle as soon as you're off the brake - that's how you know you've braked late enough! Let the tail come out just enough - that's tuning the over/under steer - that you almost slide off the track.

Then do that of every turn.

Our cars are really under-powered for the tracks we drive, so you have to be very reluctant to give up speed and momentum. You loose those from too much front tire slip angle - plowing or understeering. Loose rear end does the trick, but it is scary as the tail slides out 'till you "get it" . You instantly worry whether you'll just catch it in time or slide off the track. I always believed that if you don't go off sometimes, you're still under 9/10ths when you want to be closer to 11/10ths.

Any, free advice, worth about what it cost you (uh, nothing).

Have a great time!

Robert
 

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Richard Jemison
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Cage

I, too, am growing tired of the awkward looking cage height.
Hallelujah!

Actually your cage is iffy safety wise. Might work fine in a rollover but any front back stresses will likely bend it at brace level. As to bracing, the driver`s side brace is way too high. Head banging high.

Look at Curtis`s cage in the blue car, the cage in Paul Spruell`s yellow "Old EP car", even mine. Get all the metal possible out of the wind stream.

Outside the "SCCA" cage design is rather open. Their specifications were composed by their 12 attorneys and one bridge engineer with 3 consultants from their insurance carrier..
 

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Discussion Starter #487
Fixed the clock radio. Then I started looking these boat anchors, I mean, steering stops. I have that nice 7075 Al that would probably stand up to the rare abuse of opposite lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #489
What I really need to do is get serious about doing things to the car that will actually make it faster. Like a rear locating device. I had one of those when I was single, but had to put it away when I got married. I digress.

Anyway, here are the final results for the new steering stops. About a pound lighter for the pair. Nice to have something shiny in that dark wheel well. Speaking of which, there's the end of that Ti steering arm lurking in the foreground.
 

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Discussion Starter #492
Laps and seat time will make more speed than any hours spent saving a pound here and there!

Robert
I have repeatedly acknowledged throughout this thread that my little titanium and aluminum conversion projects will be of minimal performance benefit, and that I'm doing them just for fun. I weigh the difference out of curiosity.
 

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Discussion Starter #493
Agree, but there I'd about 5 seconds a lap to be saved with a redesigned roll cage :scared: I'd copy this car: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/motorsports/205150-ex-beck-71-spider.html
Pete
Really, Pete? You think a lower, sleeker roll cage will save me 5 seconds a lap? 5 seconds? Was that an "I'm kidding" emoticon you used? Because I can't tell if you're serious. I might shave 5 seconds with 100 more horsepower, 500 lbs less weight, or 5 more pounds of testicles. But not with a different cage. Jeez.

Do me a favor, stay out of my thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #494
I wanted to re-do my external oil lines to the remote filter and cooler. Currently they're seeping and generally ugly. I made up a new adapter plate by welding -10 AN aluminum bungs to a plate of 3/8" 6061 Al. I set them at an angle away from each other for clearance between the hose ends. I'm hoping I don't have a bunch of pinhole leaks. I'll pressure test it in a bucket of water before I install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #497
Sorry about my recent comments. I know that sometimes I lack a social filter, and may be overly sensitive. I need to view this car less like a family member and more like a thing. I shouldn't have lashed out at Pete like that, and I'm apologizing to him separately in a private message. It's not my place to banish anyone from a public thread, and everyone is welcome to comment. I'd like to keep this thread light, positive, and maybe sometimes entertaining.
 

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Discussion Starter #498
Happy Halloween. As I have reviewed this entire thread from the beginning, it appears that I usually post a project update on Halloween, so I'll keep the trend going.

Lately, I've been working on the oil lines that go to the remote filter and standalone oil cooler. When I initially built this up, I went the budget route with the house brands of hose, AN fittings, and cooler from Summit Racing. I've had chronic oil seeping and misting from the interconnects and cooler, so I decided to upgrade everything. I am now using genuine Aeroquip for the connectors, and a larger Swedish-made Setrab oil cooler. They are the oil cooler suppliers to most high-end and exotic cars. The improved quality of these parts is palpable. You could hand these pieces to your grandmother, and even she would know that they are good things.

The old oil cooler was made in Canada, and the new one is made in Sweden. It's funny how these cold weather countries are the experts and oil cooling. I would've expected these products to come out of Arizona, Egypt, or some other such place that is hotter than hell.
 

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Discussion Starter #500
I have to finish up the oil lines, and I want to refinish my headers (recoat them in ceramic), but I'm already thinking about the next major project. I've even been collecting some of the raw materials. I have some 7075 and 6061 alumin(i)um, a rod of grade 5 titanium, and a nice big hunk of Delrin. Big fat rod ends, too. There is more that's not pictured. Standby for a homemade sliding block!
 

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